SM Hunter Posted July 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) hmm.. but it does not... obviusly.. getting kind of tired of this haha, no power at all Edited July 16, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Ah- Can you post up the jets sizes for us? Might be someone who knows Solexes on here. Air jet & fuel jet on the mains would be the ones, it might be really lean. ..and the 'choke' size in the venturi throat. I assume all 4 pump jets shot out fuel. For Webers we'd be running 36chokes with 170 airs and 140 fuels or thereabouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical Sympathy Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 http://www.rmcarburetors.net/Tuning%20Tips.htm ^ Listed on that page are the 2TG jet sizes. How is your fuel pressure? Are you using the block mounted 2T mechanical pump, or have you fitted an electrical pump? There are a couple of split pin holes on the acc pump shaft. Maybe try the other pin holes. You should get 1.5 seconds of acc pump spray when you open the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clapped out Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 With that fuel coming back out the throat when you nail it, check your cams timing! that engine should be mega responsive, cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted July 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2015 (edited) Found a starter! buut i have 200 jets...?!?! and the smal ones are 57.5 i'v understood that it should be 180 orginal but the P.O told he used it daily and that would be impossible if it was running like this, ide is at 3000 aswell so i suspected air leak in the manifold, fixed that and havent startet it after that but what else could cause it to idle at 3000? where is the ide screw? Edited July 18, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Take those jets out & look at the bottoms. Those are the air jets, the fuel jets are at the bottom of the emulsion tube. Sit on Google and learn about (yet ANOTHER thing to learn about on cars..) side-draught carbs! Lots of Weber stuff on the net, most of which is similar. The fuel gets sucked up through the bottom, the air gets sucked in down that 200 jet ad they mix in the emulsion tube. The air has more effect at higher revs, the emulsion tube has a lesser effect than the air & fuel jets, but all three can be changed to get the best match. What sort of gaskets between the carbs and the manifold?? There are 'soft-mounts' you can buy for that, they have rubber O-rings to absorb engine vibrations so you don't get frothing in the float bowl. They are delicate, can't be done up too tight and must be checked for leaks every now & then. here's a starting point- (which I haven't read, I must confess, I just saw the jet pictures..) http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/viewtopic.php?t=19014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Gold! It will run fine with these jets, not as good as it absolutely can if you have non-standard parts like cut cams or extractors, but good enough though- Idle problems are somewhere else, like leaks or throttles not set up properly. OK, disconnect the two carbs, take out a linkage or something. Open the throttle maybe 1/4, and let it go. It must close on each carb with a sharp distinct clunk! If it doesn't then the throttle butterflies are not squared up on the shafts and that can give high idle. You will have to loosen the screws holding the butterflies on their shafts carefully, settle them in on a closed throttle then tighten them again. Hopefully you won't have to, but many many Webers I've sorted out have had this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 These carbs can cause a high engine idle if the chokes weren't, lined up properly when the tops were put back on. they'll get stuck in the "on position" causing an idle above 2000rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 (edited) hmmm thanks... after i checked the cams today and moved them a bit it ran fine in the top but it still idles at 3000, iv checked the chokes, i think evry one of the valves is making the clunk noise... i have to try to check for air leaks and like you said the shaft for the valves... had a test run today, it did not ran like 120 hp but I'm thinking that is the igintion but i had wheelspin though whole first gear and a bit in 2nd... I'm guessing more like 60-70 if the orignal was 50... Edited July 23, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Well, its all just tuning. What are the tappet gaps on the valves? They are not crucial for power, although if you lose 5thou in the gap it is 5thou less the valve opens. More of an effect would be the change in cam timing from the wrong tappet gap, making the valve open too late or close too early.. Cam timing IS crucial, so that needs to be checked carefully. The Datsuns used holes in the cam gear and a pin on the cam to locate the timing, & we used to drill extra holes to get a wider range of options. Ignition is vital, so make sure the spark timing is advancing as the revs go up and maxs out where it should. About 35deg I expect. Then its all up to fuel and carbs. Does it pull up to 6000rpm? Does it pull all the way up there smoothly, or has flat spots? Does it splutter if you boot it quickly? ..and the idle... all to do with carbs. Do all throats sound the same if you listen with a plastic tube in one ear? That balance between all four throats is important. Ah.. so much to go wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted July 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 ouch i have to check a lot of things! but had to do some other stuff first! it pulls allright... no boging or anything just the 3000 idle so I'm thinking false air... took the carbs of toyday and tried out something new... will test it out tomorow :) overheated the first ride, had a bad hose clamp... no damage done :) soo good to have 5 gears! low rpms time to sort out the suspention MOOG tie rod ends! lots of new stuff the shaking in the steering wheel was so bad this had come loose the solution had to use the grinder on this one new stuff in allinement started polishing the RS rims testign out color combos, thinking i will black it out insted of the red.. saw a propper car today! HJ60 with a Turbo conversion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollake10 Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Low RPM's for sure! Cruising 110kph in idle :D Man.. wish I had a 2TG! Are they super rare in Norway like they are here in Finland? Nice work on the car like always! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted July 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 yep they are almost impossible to find, lots of guys advertising that they want to buy 2tg's/18rg's on Facebook but nobody is selling.. i got mine because a guy saw my project and contected me :) found out the exhaust cam was 1 tooth off, when i fixed that it PULLED! both me and my brother agreed that its not far from his 200SX when it was orignal.. anyways the 2TG was puffing some blue smoke and i think i have rod knock? so ill get new bearings and probly new valve stem seals or piston rings :) slapped the Worked 3k in it for now, 280 duration Competition cam, new lifers, VS35 stiffer valve spings, 1mm shimmed head, newgrind valves, and 2kg ligter flywheel.. but its just dying at idle so i have to set the idle at 3000... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 but its just dying at idle so i have to set the idle at 3000... ? Which carbs?? Doesn't matter, just get in it and drive over to Rollake10's place so you can both spend this weekend in the Finnish forests with the WRC!! Only 1000km each way..... but what an experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Forgot to mention- anyways the 2TG was puffing some blue smoke and i think i have rod knock? so ill get new bearings and probly new valve stem seals or piston rings At idle with a warm motor the vacuum in the inlet manifold pulls oil down the inlnet valve stems past the seals. As soon as you drive away the oil burns out as blue smoke and stops as there is no vacuum in the manifold under throttle. So you just get one cloud then nothing. In contrast, worn rings let oil up to be burned under acceleration, and that smoke doesn't stop coming out as you drive. So you get a continuous cloud behind you. How are the compression readings? Maybe all the rings are worn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.