Those photos were very helpful. I went out and measured. The transmission tunnel hole is located identically in both the KE25 MTM car and in the TE27. After some slight heart palpitations, I checked my stock of 3 early T50's. All of these came from TA22's and all have the short extension housing as in your bottom photo showing the clean T50.

 

Presumably the one you had initially with the shifter further back on the extension housing was from a later TE7x chassis? One thing to check, is whether your transmission has a 20 spline output shaft, or 22 spline output shaft. 20 spline is early, 22 late. Will obviously be relevant with respect to your tailshaft.

 

At least you know that if you come across a T50 from a TA22 in future, it will bolt straight in.

I think you are right ta22 celica came with the short tail housing, will confirm tonight. The first gearbox came with 20 spline so it was the early type with longer tail shaft housing

Indeed, the TA22 celica has the correct T50 gearbox ie same as TE27. This early T50 20 spline gearbox uses the second row of bolt holes further back in the xE2x Chassis.

The KE25 and TE27 gearbox crossmembers are different but not by much and can interchange with a small mod, exhuast cutout I think. I have dummy fitted this up and its

spot on last I looked.

 

There are 3 common T50 in Aus,

Early T50 TA22 20 spline

Mid T50 T18 22 Spline

Late T50 4AG 22 Spline

 

There are also other differences with the gearboxes between these 3 with shifter housings, clutch slave sides, input bearings etc...

That is correct the celica ta22 came with the short housing me mistake. Probably my gearbox came from a late celica. Do you think by seam welding the rear end will be enough to convert it to coil overs?

There's always that thought that a 4 link or coilover conversion would improve a leaf end which is true in theory but having looked at it

I would recommend a well set up leaf rear end for time and cost but hey not everyone's cup of tea. Check out the the early ford escorts

for the conversion to 4 link and also coilovers, its a common thing for them and it seems to work alright.

Edited April 11, 201610 yr by styler

Do you think by seam welding the rear end will be enough to convert it to coil overs?

 

nope- look in a KE70 and see how they re-inforced the body where the springs push the force to. Sme with the link arms, they need to spread the force into the floor so they don't tear out.

 

Nce idea though. You wouldn't settle for just the bottom arms being fitted onto the leafs?

"You wouldn't settle for just the bottom arms being fitted onto the leafs? "

 

 

What do you mean? Sorry did not understand you. Do you have any pictures?

Has anyone tried cutting these up and moving them more up?

 

 

 

so yesterday i gave it a try and made some u blods out a of a stud. Made 4 inch blocks and obviously the car lowered but it needed to get more lower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then added some weights and tried to get the rim more closer to the lip

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Will try and change the more longer diff tonight

Do you want your car to drive well or just look good?

Preferibly bought but i prefer looks. Why?

Like this- They keep the leaf spring but locate it in place.

Those arms above are caltrac bars which may go by a few other names but are essentially traction bars.

To get lower in leaf spring setups you can invert the eye/eyes of the leaf springs and also reset the pack at a lower height.

Remember the car is just a shell with no weight in the back at the moment, once assembled will drop in height as well.

Yeah that why i added some weight and to be more accurate the two sides need to be lowerd. Did ever someone try lowering the the rear leaf spring bracket i.e cutting it and positioning the bracket furter to the trunk. I don't know if i am explaining my self the correct way, but i think this will get the car more lowerd. I will have to use blocks, but at least not 4 inches at least 2 inch. Just wanted to see all options before and see which one is the best for looks and work involved

Very nice build mate. I have done what you say to my ke30, i cut the rear mount down so the tube sits directly on the chassis. I have also done the front mount though, i initially changed the front mount to add strength to the mount and to tie it better into both the sill and the chassis rail, while doing that i also lifted it around 3 inches closer to the floor to lower the car further.

By just moving the mounting point of the leaf spring how much do you think did the car lowered?