The only issue is the lower spring perch is too big for the stock spring. So either convert to coilovers or weld your stock perch on. You can just use the xt perch but its not the best idea.

Ke30's had sumitomo callipers, ke55's had girlock.

Straight swap over in terms of calliper bolting on. The calliper end of the brake line is different though so you need to swap those over to... Ke30 is like this =>, ke55 is like this =<.

Yes vn rear pads fit ke55 calipers, give you some better pad options ie Bendix and ebc stuff.

Are the Girlock calipers better?

Edited December 7, 201312 yr by megamannz123

http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Front_Disc_Brakes

http://www.toymods.org.au/TechDocs/ae86brakes.pdf

 

A couple if usefull links

Edited December 7, 201312 yr by megamannz123

ive got refreshed stuff on my stock 20 (Jap) brakes slotted rotors,motul fluid, QFM hpx pads, new rear shoes,slave cylinders,adjusted correctly etc does the job can still fade occasionally on along downhill run but only when pushing hard. I think they do pretty well of what i ask of them.

Edited December 7, 201312 yr by wagn

KE30 has thin (9mm) discs and KE55/70 has thick (12mm) discs. As has been said, the calipers are also different. KE55/70 brakes will bolt onto KE30 hubs, you'll need the backing plate and caliper from the 55/70 strut as well. Alternately you can just swap in the entire KE70 strut onto the KE30 strut top. Either way, the "upgrade" is pretty negligible, there's no difference in diameter.

 

If you can get the bits for free and enjoy bleeding brakes in your spare time then do it, otherwise the advice to reco your existing stuff is probably the best. It's amazing how much of a firm pedal you get when you replace those corroded 30yo brake lines with new ones that aren't polluting your brake fluid with rust.

 

Strut upgrades are briefly covered on the wiki too - http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=KE55_Front_Strut_Upgrades

Will 13" wheels still fit on the xt130 front struts? Or is the disc and backing plate too large.

Man theres stacks of info out there. The general info on the xt130 is it will only fit 14's and up. The stock lower spring perch i have is standard but have a thinner diameter spring installed with ke30 tops. Just google xt130 into ke

T-18 series 2

From memory the only thing i had to do was swap the bearing plate over to the ke30.

 

But it also opened the range of shock absorbers that could be used in the struts.

Hi mate this is just a cut and paste from my rides thread, in my opinion it probably one of the best upgrades,

More work than I think you wanted to do, but the info is here any way.

Sorry about the essay.

 

 

This info is for use in a ke55, but some or most can be used on most ke/Ae cars.

 

Just to clarify this brake upgrade is for use with the AE86 strut and hubs.

As far as i know the ae86 struts and hub conversion can be used in most KE/AE cars ( i have even seen it used on a KE10 ) if used with the standard AE86 brakes its a brake upgrade in it self over any KE/AE offerings.

When you use the ae86 strut there are so many more performance shock absorber options, because it uses a larger diameter strut tube casing. ( main reason it's used )

As far as i know the king pin inclination isn't too bad compared to the other common swaps, xt130, celica and so on ( there's not as much positive camber )

But it might be a good idea to run some adjustable strut tops top correct any camber issues.

As for the strut hight, mine were cut down too suit a short stroke insert and a adjustable coil over set up was used, not too sure how they would be with the standard AE86 spring/spring seat set up. ( i think too tall )

You also need to use the ke55 strut tops ( or use the adjustable strut tops as mentioned before, Cusco #109410A, and Noltec #N44025 are an option for KE25/30/55)

The strut top PCD is different on Ae86, but i think it is the same for KE/AE70.

AE86 hubs and steering arms need to be used, the arms should bolt up fine to the ball joint and tie rod ends on a KE55, can't be sure on others. ( you can also use power steering arms for more lock)

The rotor used is from an EG Honda Civic and it needs to be re drilled to a 114.3 PCD, most brake specialist or machining shops should be able to do this. ( don't try and do it your self !! )

EG Civic rotors are available in slotted and cross drilled and pretty sure they are even available in a two piece performance combo from DBA for the serious racer.

Calipers are from a series 4 Mazda RX7, they are an aluminium 4 pot caliper and are a massive upgrade over standard, also a heap lighter than the pug/landcruiser option. ( less unsprung weight = better )

Being from a performance car, they have a heap of after market pad options.

To be able to bolt up the caliper you need to use a custom adapter, there are a few guys who sell this item off the shelf locally and over seas. ( too suit either eg civic or mini cooper s rotors )

If you want to know where i got mine from please pm me, i am not going to promote any one specifically.

You also need to get your brake lines re done to suit the RX7 caliper.

And would recommend upgrading your master cylinder to 7/8 or 15/16 to get the correct pedal feel and effort, off memory a master cylinder from an early model commodor VH/VK will bolt up to the corolla booster.

The only thing you will have to do is swap the slanting brake fluid canister for the flat corolla one. ( the lines going in to the master cylinder may have different flared ends to that on the corolla one, mine did )

All this should bolt up fine with out many problems, the only small one i encountered is the clearance from the lower control arm to the rotor, a few taps with the hammer to flatten out the end of the arm fixes that,

it only need a few mm, don't hit hard enough to deform where the ball joint sits.

 

Hope that helps,

like i said if any one has any corrections or additions don't hesitate to make them.

 

Cheers