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Weak Point Of Ke70 Lsd


batmo

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I'm new to modding a KE70 so be gentle. Putting a much higher powered turbo engine in my car and have been told by all the diff will blow asap. Not too keen on swapping to an R31 diff if it's not totally needed and am prepared to address the KE diff if it's viable.

 

The car will be used for circuit with semi slicks so that said, is there any after market to strengthen the diff in my car alredy?

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Apart from welding the Diff locked there's no real other options. No LSD available. I don't even think there are spools available. Your best bet is to find a T series Diff out of a TE72/T18 or a USDM/JDM AE86. Plenty of LSD options, disc brake options and best of all they bolt in.

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If he's putting a much higher power engine in with a turbo then he may well need at least a skyline diff or an F series as the torque will smash a T series ae86 diff. I've always wondered if for pure circuit you can nitrite or shot peen (or something else if I'm too ignorant to know what its called) the T diff gears and coat them also to make it hold up to higher torque, run cooler and get away with the bolt in option at the lightest possible weight.

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I've always wondered if for pure circuit you can nitrite or shot peen (or something else if I'm too ignorant to know what its called) the T diff gears and coat them also to make it hold up to higher torque, run cooler and get away with the bolt in option at the lightest possible weight.

 

Cryo treating and isotopic(spelling?) polishing helps a lot. Oil temps are lower and less bearing/steel material contaminating the oil.

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The RA40 rally car twisted an axle in the T-series, using the stock 18RG 2litre. That was the welded diff I reckon, it throws a lot more stress on the axles. Both had quite worn splines too.

 

I'd say start with a T-series from a Celcia or similar as it bolts straight in, and if you do break it you at least have time to start preparing something bigger. The F will need mounts welding onto it I think, the Skyline will need shortening and mounts, as will the ultimate, the Hilux.

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400rwkw boosted 6 through a T56 on methanol is the drive train. It's not a drag car but will give it a run or 2 just because but is a dedicated track car with zero street duties. Really not into failing a diff at the top of 4th with 30psi on board so please be blunt lol

Edited by batmo
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So the issue with the stock diff would be axles are weak and gears will strip? Would this be caused by the diff carrier getting all out of alignment under heavy torque and loading up components on bad angles or just out right weakness in a perfect geometry situation (should that ever be able to exist!)

 

A diff housing cradle could be an easy option or just meh, go the hilux or R31 diff?

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diff failure is more than power... it is also vehicle mass. The KE70 isn't very heavy... 1000 kilos (+ or -)

 

 

You have a few options... Ford's 8.8, modified to take the E7's spring seats and trailing arms... or you might get away with a T housing fitted with Weir Performance axle diff kit - http://www.weirperformance.com/axlekitscompleterear.html

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You're past a Skyline diff too I think.

 

Borgys in a full weight Falcon are good for mid nine second passes. Given an e7 are half the weight it should be fine with a set of billet axels. FYI skyline, falcon and commo diffs are all pretty much the same internally all except a couple of different splines on axels.

Edited by kickn5k
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diff failure is more than power... it is also vehicle mass. The KE70 isn't very heavy... 1000 kilos (+ or -)

 

 

You have a few options... Ford's 8.8, modified to take the E7's spring seats and trailing arms... or you might get away with a T housing fitted with Weir Performance axle diff kit - http://www.weirperfo...mpleterear.html

 

Yeah this is something that swayed me towards this car. Had a heavy as hell VT prior and just fire saled it off asap as soon as my KE70 popped up for sale!

 

Forgive my ignorance but could you shed some light on T series plz? Billet axles are definitely not out of the question and trying to keep unsprung weight down as well so a Hi Lux diff will be a good option but I think last resort

 

I have a back ground with commodores which is why I was thinking BW78 based diff as I've done a few of these at 300rwkw in the heavier VS with no issues from the gearset or axles. Everything is boosted of course

 

What I really like of the ford diff is the watts link from factory and it's something I'll really be looking at as I do this project. Has to be better than a lateral bar

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