Nice work feral. Looks like its time for you to get swaybars Too.

 

Ive ordered a custom 24mm selby front bar, up from the 20mm they sell. And also had it built to clear the 3tc's front sump

 

Standard LCA but it has been reinforced by previous owner

 

Ive also ordered the t3 balljoint taper sleeve to fit ae86 struts, and ae86 power steering knuckles for ridiculous amounts of lock.

 

I'm currently looking into ae86 coilovers.

I've been busy...

 

 

The old girl has got new legs. T3 balljoint taper adapter sleeves, T3 ae86 p/s knuckles, ae86 BC coilovers. Ae86 hubs with JDM 240mm vented rotors on the way. Probably use rx7 4pots unless they don't fit into the rims.

2pots would be fine but the only set I have laying around are huge soarer cast iron ones.

 

Adjustable BC dampers or adjustable konis going in the rear depending on how the new diff sits. The bc rear dampers are short stroke but I'm worried I wont have enough negative travel.

 

R31 diff on the way with a full spool to go in it, hopefully I get all this done before the next track day!

Long time since my last update.

Designed and fabricated a ram air box, fitted an r31 diff, had a custom 1pc tailshaft made to suit, designed a z32 4 spot front brake adapter.

 

 

WoW! That's a REAL airbox!

 

Do you have a support bracket under the carbs? If not, watch for cracks appearing in the manifold from the weight pounding up and down. I had one from the engine mount bolt to a T-bar under the Webers, using the trumpet bolts underneath.

 

The other spot is around the holes in the airbox where it bolts onto the carbs. Using alloy might be more flexible than the sheet steel I used.

 

I could see the air pressure difference in mine, the rear carb runs leaner than the front, and I put a pressure release vent in it later. The air pressure builds up with speed, so if its fine at low speed it leans out at 100kph.. The mixture display I have was invaluable in sorting it out, & I run an oxy sensor for each carb with a switch on the dash.. All in "The Girls KE70"

Thanks mate, I designed it to be a hybrid of a ram air box and a plenum. After the ram section it becomes a plenum, so that it volumetrically tapers.

 

The area at cyl #1 is 100%, 86% at #2, 70% at #3, 50% at #4. Supposedly this is the ideal ratio to allow even pressure from front to rear cylinders in a plenum.

 

I immediately noticed a jump in power, even though the new diff ratio is 3.9vs the 4.4 it had previously.

 

I had planned to run a stay from the plenum floor down to a bracket on the side of the block, next to the engine.

 

The airbox comes close to a where the battery pan was bolted and I was able to wedge a thick dense foam block inbetween to add support and dampening. The carbs are soft mounted also.

Unfortunately I didnt get a chance to test it on the track nor take it back to the dyno. The pinion seal in the diff blew on the way to the track, and the ignition gremlins have now made it undrivable.

 

I have begun work on converting it to efi.

I knocked up a trigger wheel setup and have had it running with both wasted spark direct coil control and wasted cop with sr20 cops and igniter.

 

The nissan 'smart igniter' is not suitable for wasted spark, I'm going with a bosch 'dumb igniter'.

 

I have no idea what you are talking about, but it's awesome!

Nice progress. Love the air induction. Does your car pop its own hood on hard cornering? My wife's te27 pops when I push hard in turns.

The area at cyl #1 is 100%, 86% at #2, 70% at #3, 50% at #4. Supposedly this is the ideal ratio to allow even pressure from front to rear cylinders in a plenum.

 

I immediately noticed a jump in power, even though the new diff ratio is 3.9vs the 4.4 it had previously.

 

Nice job, looks like you've put some thought into it :)

Hey no problem with the bonnet yet, this little weapon has been seam stitched and has a 6 point rollcage. The front and rear swaybars help a lot too.

 

I've got ta22 bars front and rear at the moment, but my custom front swaybar turned up, 24mm thick with clearance for the 3t front sump.

 

Decided to give it a bit of boost while doing the EFI conversion...

 

Intercooler tucked behind the grill

 

Steampipe Tri Y into T2 flange, 1200°C wrap

 

Garrett GT1756

 

Made some injector boss blanks, welded them on

 

Machined up a plenum to TB plate, radiused the inlet to the plenum

 

Mock up of the plenum

Ummmm Wow!

Do you think that turbo might be a little on the small side?

Do you think that turbo might be a little on the small side?

 

And plenum a bit on the large side... trumpets should petrude less into the plenum, ideally they would have a bellmouth that sits against the entry wall.

 

This car is cool, good to see the motivation and skills you have to keep developing it.

Thanks for the feedback fellas.

 

The turbo is just one I had sitting around. Its off a 2L saab engine, should be good for instant (but limited) boost. I had planned to go with the sc14 but a bit too much stuffing around involved in machining up the gilmer pulleys in the time frame I have.

 

I believe a plenum should be a minimum of double the engine volume, so at least 4L for a big bore 3t (~1950cc) not sure about the max volume? The bellmouths / trumpets should never be flush with plenum wall / floor, they should be raised. The reason being the slowest moving air is always at the boundaries of a plenum / pipe and the fastest at the centre. These might be too long, but they are the shortest dhla/dcoe ones I could find. The 4th cylinder opening is roughly half way in the plenum. Ideally theyd be slightly shorter and have a full radius instead of half radius.

 

Its only a proto, if it works well I'll refine the design. I already found out the hard way I should have made it from scratch instead of using carby manifold. Again though, I'm limited for time to get it done.