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KeyserSoze

Engine and electric issues.

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Hey guys.

Have recently put in another engine and running into a few issues

It starts but begins to play up and stalls. Only runs with choke on and ends up dying still within like a min . Could this be something to do with a blocked jet, timing, bad fuel, dirty fuel filter or air fuel mixture ??

Second issue I have is that my radio and clock are running as soon as you put the negative  cable on the battery. Have checked the earths in the engine bay but they are bolted in. 

Any advice would be much appreciated 

Cheers.

Engine is a 4kc and the model is an 83 ke70 wagon which has had egr deleted before I bought it 2 years ago. Will reply on smoko 

Edited by KeyserSoze

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I had a KE with such a worn ignition once that I never did find the way to turn the key all the way off.  I could turn it to accessory and didn't need to do the push and turn to switch back to off position to remove the key, so I just thought that's how it worked.  lol.  I did at one point work it out and then my battery stopped flattening itself.

Give us more info.  Which chassis and engine for a start, and were these problems present on the old engine and carb, did you rebuild the carb?  Is it a known working unit?

I always use lots of carby cleaner just to blast the crap out, and rev it up with the carb inlet half obscured to create a strong venturi effect and suck the shit out of the jets.

Try the fuel filter, they are cheap to swap out, and go from there.  You will need to make sure the fuel pump can move the fuel, that the filter lets it flow, and that the car didn't sit for long enough for the fuel to become stale.  A car will idle poorly on old fuel, if at all.

 

 

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Firstly what car and what engine do you have? Sounds like the idle jet in the carby is blocked. You can give it a squirt with some carby cleaner but more often than not it will need to be pulled apart and cleaned thoroughly and if you are lucky the gaskets can be reused.

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You'll have to check the sound system wiring, some guys hook them to permanent power sadly.  If its stock then it will be more lying under the dash with a light following wires and making sure the ignition barrel does actually turn off the ignition.  KE70 wiring diagrams are on here somewhere.  

The carb problem sounds like a blocked jet, and like Big G says, pull the jets out, squirt them out with cleaner and squirt through the drillings in the carb.  If you've got access to a compressor use that, or just get a 10ml syringe without a needle and push petrol through the drillings.

A full stripdown would be best, but hey....   filter also as Spirit said, and just check the points gap & timing in case..   The choke raises the idle speed as well as doing mixture richening, so maybe the idle speed needs checking.

 

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What usually happens after an aggro dose of carby cleaner is the engine runs faster, and then you realise it needed a clean many times over the years and people just kept opening up the idle screw to keep it alive.  Especially with autos, where a stall is particularly annoying.  Just reset it all to factory specs once done.  Check base ignition timing, the motor might be out, and you might have a weak idle as a result also.

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Hey guys thanks for all the replies.

The car has been sitting for like 4 months with half an engine ( took it to a mechanic because I couldnt get it running properly and he took the head off and didnt put it back together and told me it was gonna cost 3g to rebuild. Couldnt afford it so I got it towed back to mine) and I ended up buying another engine. Still using the same carby since it was pulled apart and told there was nothing wrong with it from said mechanic.

 

 

I changed the fuel filter today and it was a bit old and real gross. But so far no luck with it running any better

I'm planning on looking at the timing during the week with a mate and taking apart the dash to look for the electric issue.

Have no experience with taking carbies apart but I do have a workshop repair manual. 

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Little update. Was testing to see if it had spark in all 4 cylinders. 4th is missing but the lead and spark plug is getting spark so a mate is gonna bring home a compression tester from work.

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Just for fun... before you drive it anywhere, take off the radiator cap and fill the rad to the brim. Leave the cap off, start it up and idle it to see if water gets pushed out by bubbles before the thermostat opens after about 5-10minutes.  Occasionally #4 head gasket goes, but if not then maybe a valve is burnt. The compression gauge will show a burnt valve, but not a head gasket blown.

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Altezzaclub she ain't in any condition to drive as she just stalls out within a min. After work I should  look at the timing and see if I can get her running long enough to do that test ( have been real lazy lately).  Would rather a headgasket over a burnt valve or potential rebuild. If she is rooted it's gonna be my fault for buying an engine without seeing it run first and taking the fellas word haha.

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Okay guys did 2 compression tests 

Results are : 

Cylinder 1: roughly 120/120

Cylinder 2: roughly 110/115

Cylinder 3: roughly 115/110

Cylinder 4: roughly 120/120

 

 

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Also it seems to be now "missing" on 1 and 4 and not just 4 anymore.  Kinda doing my head in now haha. Still will not run without the choke on at all.  Mechanic mate is bringing a multi meter and spark test tool tomorrow so hopefully it brings out some results.

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So guys I solved the engine issue hahha.. was looking at all the lines and realised that the green plug from the carby wasnt mesnt to plugged into a black plug. Switched to the white and it doesnt miss or stall. 

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