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Ke26 restomod project

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  • Author

There are still some sections that are very thin, even after welding. So along the edge of the window sill I started grinding out the thin material

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Then a very small patch was made, using my rudimentary tools but it looks like it will do the task.

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It's tricky to try and tack in place, I will head to Bunnings and grab some very small fridge magnets or thin jawed vice grips to hold it. 

Edited by wenisman

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  • Thanks banjo, I know it's funny but when I started the restoration 18 months ago I had never welded or done any form of metal shaping. I know I took Tafe courses and spent time at a professional shop

  • The fender then needed the sheet metal work. the old aerial hole got welded up, it was a pretty nasty hole but it got welded up and once again file finished.   The bottom off the fende

  • So the after removing the top sleeve and then putting on a rubber sleeve from a Hilux the rear shock fits inside the rear mount. I'll secure it with a house clamp or something in the future. Beca

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Nice work Geoff !

I can see your confidence building, & that You enjoy both "the journey", as well as enjoying the "end result".  I look forward to your future efforts.

 

Cheers Banjo

  • Author

Thanks banjo, I know it's funny but when I started the restoration 18 months ago I had never welded or done any form of metal shaping. I know I took Tafe courses and spent time at a professional shop to learn the skills, but for a complete novice this is a daunting task.

All that said I do really enjoy it, you're right in that the process is gratifying to see how this is turning out. 

But it's funny to think I'm now doing the work at home, and hopefully someone will read this blog, my journey of learning and it inspires them to restore their car. Because if I can do it, well anyone can

Edited by wenisman

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

So I decided to weld the hole in the window sill with mixed results. But it was better than trying to hold the small peice in place as it would have just melted away.

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But once it was linished back it looked reasonable

 

  • Author

I then decided to try and straighten the frame... it's been a small odyssey. I started with the bottom. You can see the crease mark to where it was originally pushed into. I have had to massage it a long way out but the metal is literally falling apart

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So I marked out a battle plan on what peices I need to remake for that bottom section. You can see where chunks of metal literally broke off the bottom.

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I have had several attempts at home to get these right, but I just can't seem to make it how I want to so I'll have to go back to the workshop for some professional advise

Edited by wenisman

  • Author

So I started on the side of the frame which was also buckled. When I painted stripped it I could see that the original repair had just welded the frame to the skin as the two were different sizes. 

After a little work it was at least the right size again.

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And then a bit more hammer and dolly work and it's looking mostly back in line

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I also straightened out the crease a little further up whilst I was at it.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

This post isn't really car related, but I'm doing the cycle challenge this month in order to raise some funds for kids with cancer.

 

So I made a stand for the front wheel, I needed something that could articulate to counter the compression of the front forks. So some square tubing, 3mm plate, a rose joint and a mount from a car rack 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Well I took a short break to switch jobs, but I spent that time thinking on how to proceed.

 

So using the old steering arm, some wood and a vice I made a bend with the right radius.

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With a few manual adjustments with my favourite hitting stick I think it will fit. So I checked the radius on the other side and I think it will work.

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  • Author

So I then cut out the old rusted section and I am again manually adjusting to get it to fit. 

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But there is a curve to the bottom of the tailgate, so I will need to use a shrinker to get the right curve. But it's getting close.

I have had to straighten the bottom a bit more but it's looking ok at the moment, considering it's just hacked up tools at home

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

With much trimming and fettling I got to a point where I was happy with the patch panel. So I tacked the new peice into place

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Looking along the edge of the bend it still needs some work but it came out ok in the end

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So the next task will be to make the corner peice.

  • 4 months later...
  • Author

After what seems like forever, my life is somewhat back in order and my torn ligament in my left arm is still painful but healing. So it's back to it...

 

Started where I left off, the corner. It has a step on the side, unfortunately both sides of the tailgate are damaged and so getting an accurate measurement is proving difficult. But with some pliers and a small hammer I have it fitting back on the skin of the door well. So I'll run with this guestimate of how it should look.

 

I then took a few cardboard templates and cut some steel. 

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You can see the profile of the lip for the frame edge here, and some small templates to give me some references

 

20240401_091946.jpg

  • Author

So armed with my very rudimentary tools I notched a small divot from some timber and with a soft jaw clamp got to hammering

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Then with a few minutes I was getting close, I know many people will be upset with how I'm doing this but I have to work within my tools. However the result is starting to get close

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You can build the whole car with a handful of timber shapes and a light hammer, that's how coachbuilders worked. We do similar work building race cars, customising panels in the simplest method.

It will be a work of art when the car is finished!

  • Author

And the finished product for today... One corner peice tacked in place

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Next time I will get the bottom radius from the better corner and trim the bottom to shape 😉

Edited by wenisman

I'm getting stuck into my KE15 at the moment, dealing with the rusted area inside the scuttle panel at the heater air intake.  Very much a beginner welder and learning as I go on an area that won't be visible.  I've quickly learned with butt welding not to have the two pieces of metal flush, as the penetrance isn't there.  Soon as you grind it off, the joint is week and you are pretty much back where you started.  Back out to have another go.

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