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Plus one! Always great to see a project finished and working, and that's a smart-looking sleeper.

"The Corolla looked a bit too try hard. " Definitely! The last decent-looking car Toyota made would be the Altezza, it followed on from some lovely Supras and Soarers, then devolved into weird angles and mis-fitting panels. The Yaris is like the Ford Ka, a ewe pissing, just not as bad. After Josh's bro bent his Golf R we fitted all the mechanicals and wiring from that (including the boot floor) to his Mum's 1.4L Golf. Now she has a shopping rocket that his Dad swipes most days, and it looks completely stock. The boot floor was the only part that needed altering (shallower floor) to fit the 4WD. Keeps your eyes open for an R at the auctions/wreckers, you never know...

Just love it, when a project comes to "fruition", & the road trips get going, under it's tyres ! Well done, & a good thread. I'm sure it will be appreciated by many, over the years on here. Congrats Cheers Banjo

Well BIG update, long story short she is finished and now registered! Here's some photos from it's shake down trip! Started off at a spot out of town for sunrise. Then went down onto the beach! Here's a shot of the finished engine bay! Also fitted up a D21 Navara/Pathfinder snorkel! Fits really well and gives the factory look I was going for! Fitted up some flush mount LED reverse lights in the rear bumper. Really enjoying exploring in the old girl, a few more trips coming up soon!

Yeah I saw a GR corolla the other day, I wasn't too impressed with the looks. The GR Yaris is similar but I dunno, seems to wear its ridiculous looks better. The Corolla looked a bit too try hard. Not to mention how much is a GR corolla worth? 65k! hah, I'm not paying that for a corolla. Save up a bit more and you can get an older Porsche!

I have to say i was very impressed by how well it handled, until i got the deflation warning. Oh well. The reason i was going so fast is I was concerned about someone coming the other way and chipping the paint. My avatar i have to admit is some mad Irishman I found very many years ago. This was the first opportunity I've had to really open her up on some challenging roads after 10 mths of ownership. And I went nowhere near it's outlet limits. Amazing that something you can potter up to the shops in can be so incredibly quick and raucous when given its head. You really do see a different side of the car other than just blasting away at the lights. Phenomenal. I had been aiming to buy a GR Corolla for a couple of years prior to giving up on Toyota and buying this. I see one in the carpark at work regularly, and it's actually a damn ugly looking thing.

That would do it, but what good is money if you cant spend it on hooning about on dirt roads. and you've got to live up to that display picture...

True- There's no sidewall in a /35, and rally tyres are fat and heavy for a good reason! We had one throw the tread off recently, just left big areas of the wires on the surface, gravel is much harder on tyres than asphalt.

As long as you are having fun! I have had a solid stream of 'family stuff' delay me for years..... But if I wander out into the garage, I get all warm and fuzzy inside. My kids laugh at me, but I'm happy, and now I'm finally gettiung somewhere. Don't stress, you will get there.

Don't drive down dirt roads at 100km/hr when you have 235/35 R19 tyres! $440 lesson after puncturing at the bead. Also, google maps doesn't differentiate between bitumen and dirt roads. My Volkswagen GTI Mk 8 however is a phenomenal car, and had the best day driving around the King Valley in Victoria yesterday on way to Winton Historics. Best $440 I ever spent!

So I was googling to find any info on the fate of Mumbleweed the RA60 Celica and found Ash's post on my thread... 7 years late. I'd love to know if she's still out there and what plates she has now??

Well, not much progress since last August due to loads of family stuff that has been going on. i did find that my KE20 propshaft was not considered to be strong enough and the T50 output shaft spline configuration is different to that of the T40 that i took out. I now have the correct yolk for the output shaft to be fitted to the new propshaft that i am having built. Need a few more odds an ends but hoping to get it running by the end of this year, hopefully not famous last words.

Hello everyone! I mainly joined the forum to gather info and share progress on my restoration of a 1968 KE10 Corolla. It's a barn find that was parked in 1973 due to rust, but the rust's been fixed sometime later. The story is that this car was the first car sold by the founder of this dealership/workshop, who must have taken the car back after it didn't pass inspections due to rust. He wanted to fix it and get it back on the road, but probably that project failed at the fender being unobtainium (and without the internet, that was a big roadblock!). Now the guy has passed away, the grandchild is running the business and with changed requirements in how used tires must be stored for disposal, they need the space. Hence, the car had to go - and I snagged it for a good price. It's in very good condition as it's been fixed and possibly painted already, the engine is in unknown condition. The trim bits and pieces seem to not be missing, so it should be possible to assemble the car. Here's some impressions of me bringing it home: What's really cool is that I got the full set of original Toyota tools for it, they still had them but wanted to recycle them: Now some questions: Any general tips on getting the engine running again? Do you know anyone who might have the fender and front bumper and grill? I don't mind shipping costs around the world - it is what it is. Regards!

Hello everyone! Even though this forum is primarily focused on Australia and New Zealand, I wanted to join to exchange knowledge and possibly find some of the (here in Switzerland) really rare parts. After growing up in the Camry that I still drive, I got infected with the Toyota-virus and have kept adding Toyotas to my garage. I'm at four cars now (pics below), and will probably only stop buying old Toyotas due to space constraints. Cars in order of acquisition. 1992 Camry, 2.2L 5S-FE automatic. Pretty basic, but has a nice cloth interior and I use it as my daily. 1984 Sprinter Trueno, 1.6L 4A-GE manual, 2-door, JDM import. Basically mint now, super fun to drive in the mountain twisties. 2000 Mk4 Supra, 3L 2JZ-GE manual swap, JDM import. Project car, lacking paperwork to make it street legal. 1968 Corolla, 1.1L K manual. Barn find in really good condition that I'll be restoring to get register with historic plates. Looking forward to interesting discussions! Regards

Razorback! that is a name I haven't heard for a long time. I remember meeting the guy who made them, a lonnnngg time ago. I found some posts from about 2006 on some forums on a google, and yep that's about when I met him. Bought some parts off him for my 4age ke70, way back when. https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2077 Unless you can figure out the razorback yourself I think its not really worth pursuing - and without it being in front of me theres not much I can do to help. Piggy back ecus have always been a bit iffy, lots of guessing that whilst in the day the razorback was a neat bit of kit, without support (is there even still a website? manuals? I cant find any) it might be a bit hard to get anywhere. how do you tune it? does it have a hand controller? Is it still running a map sensor? if so is it suitable for positive pressure? (for your turbo). Something like a Haltech platinum sprint 500 might be worth looking at, they can be had real cheap second hand - couple of hundred bucks . very basic ecu these days, but more than enough to run a 4age. But you'll need to make a new loom, which would really tidy things up - but again, 4age is quite simple. How are you triggering the oem ecu? The bigport and smallport distributors and trigger patterns are wildly different. If you are getting spark of some description, and not getting any life out of it with starter spray that tells me that the ignition timing is miles out. id get a timing light, put it on injector one and see where its firing in regards to top dead centre. should be about 10 degrees before top dead Centre whilst starting. Where do you live?

Have you had it running with a stock coil on the ECU only? I thought mixing bigport and smallport ECUs wasn't a good thing. I don't know if that is because they have different ways of handing cam timing & ignition, the distributors have different toothed wheels in them between the VAST and the ESA systems. I suppose you need to confirm ignition timing and injection timing to start with, if you can get it running on the stock setup at least you know the rest of the system like the wiring is good, The try the Razorback and make it work before trying the COPs. I'll know more when I finally get around to fitting a Haltech to replace my bigport ECU, or I'll be asking you for answers....

Hi everyone. Sorry if this topic has been discussed before, I'm new to 4AGE's. I have fitted a 4age smallport with turbo to a Datsun 1200( previously a rotary). It has a bigport ECU. My issue is I have had it running with COPS, only on 2 cyls. I have now gone to a Daewoo twin coil pack and all plugs are firing. But I cannot get it to start, even using a starter spray. Has anyone used these ECU's with the Razorback piggyback controller? I have searched for a contact info of the guy who made these controllers, but no luck. I would be grateful for any info that may help with this. Thanks in advance. Ps, I love Toyota engines, this is not the 1st Toy engine I have fitted to a 1200 coupe. Darryl

Well I spent some time pulling the old window, it was a fight but I got it out keeping the seals mostly in tact. The new seals do seem to be a touch to small, but they just might need to be stretched. But as a contingency I will see if I can find a local slip to make up the seals from the originals as that's in one piece

I can make whatever you need here in OZ. Going to be pretty close to $2k for 4cyl set with rings, pins and clips.

I've gotta 1972 Toyota ke20 deluxe and I could go 15 km with a liter that's city driving, outstation my kmpl is averaging around 18-19,you just gotta baby it with the gas paddle till it reaches speeds

Got a bit side tracked there, with this camshaft sprocket chain advance / retard possibility, but will get back to that later. Most important thing is to get this "flying magnet trigger wheel" installed & running, with my Speeduino & Tuner Studio, on the 5K test bed engine. However, after finishing my 8mm thick "flying magnet" trigger wheel; I learnt a lesson, that I should have known; that "bigger is not always better". You see, I embedded 36 off 4mm dia. x 25mm lg. rare earth magnets in the disk, only to find when I tested it, that the Hall Effect sensor would not switch off. The magnet poles, facing out along the edge of the disk, were 17mm apart, on a radial edge, of the 200mm diameter aluminium disk; but the magnetic field strength was too strong, to allow the Hall Effect sensor to switch off. One of the reasons I used the 25mm long "rod" magnets, was because there was a large surface area, on the sides, which would provide a large area of Araldite adhesion of the magnets; to the inside of the 27mm deep holes in the aluminium disk. So back to using my olde 6mm thick 200mm dia. disk, with 36 off 4mm dia. x 6mm long rare earth magnets. Finished it today, & on the bench, it works perfectly. The trigger north pole, trigger reference magnet, is currently positioned at 270 degrees ATDC. So all I need to do now, is get the camshaft sprocket front engine cover, back on the engine, & do some serious testing, with the oscilloscope, with the engine running, & then the Speeduino. Cheers Banjo

Thanks mate I’ll chase them up see what they can do for me. Cheers 👍

Just because its not listed on a catalogue doesnt mean a reputable piston manufacturer cant make it for you. custom pistons can be had. As an example - https://www.wiseco.com/custom-pistons/

Fellas, thank you both for your input. outstanding! I've had a wee looking into measuring cc's etc, as you say, looks rather easy with a pipette. All things to be discussed further down the track once we've had a good look inside. I look forward to coming back to you both with pictures of where we're at hopefully by Sunday. All the best team, cheers

Hey guys n girls, I’m pretty new to this type of stuff so sorry in advance to all if I muck up. I’m building a 7afe turbo 4 my 112 & forged pistons are near impossible to find, anyone out in Rolla land know of any in oz ? I have found some in China but you have to buy 7 sets 4 $2,500(approx). Ok they work out for $400 a set but wtf am I gonna do with 7 sets? I’ve got Spool rods, balanced the crank, new bearings, seals,….etc. I’m pushing almost 20 psi into a fresh one built in January this year (2024) with 40thou over hypatec pistons, again new seals etc… siruda head gasket (stopper) & holy hell what a lot of fun 😝. I’ve blown 2 motors in 2 years (bending rods in 1, hole in number 3 piston through the oil control ring in the other). So, any help from anyone out there would be greatly appreciated. 👍✌️