MYSTIK

curl bar :bash: other than that i can't really help you out :) +1 for being in the lack of time boat atm :y:

just a quick reminder people that its this coming Friday :bash: *waits for ryans bacon pizza comment*

there is a thread, so i shall merge the 2 ;) plus being as it after 2 pm, it looks like i wont be there ;)

guess ill nominate my seca for an ae9x spot, with a picture that Raven took last year

:) :y:

was transporting parentals around for a shopping trip. guessing you were the white e7 with mags behind me then? if so, spotted you turning off of marion rd bit later on

yeah shitty/leaking brake cylinders will cause crappy brake response on drums, not hard to replace, if you don't want to go the whole hog and do the drum -> disc swap good to hear you got it all finished and it all works well :)

take you choice theres plenty out there. do a search on the web, ie Vipec, Adaptronic, Autronic, Wolf, Microtech, Link etc etc then have a look at their website for distributors/tuners do some ringing around for prices and the turners advice, a/m ecu's are usually a personal choice so ultimately it comes down to you and what you going to use the car for :P

how the brakes are connected on the rear of my cs hatch :rolls: and heres a link to the technical drawing for the FXGT disc brakes(the sx/gti Use the same setup) FXGT Brakes Tech Drawing hopefully that helps a bit more Edit: I forgot that with the rear drum brakes that there is a rubber brake hose between 2 hard lines :P you need to disguard this piece of the hard line as it is no longer needed and you connect the rubber brake line from the hard line that finishes @ the chassis rail as seen in the picture above of the setup on my hatch. I didnt realise this at the time of my first post as my cs hatch also has sx/gti struts front and rear so it also doesnt have the bracket on the strut that the lower spec corolla with rear drums have. Plus i will apologise for potentially misleading you Calam05 :yes:

did you get the rubber brake lines with the rear calipers? ill have a look in the morning @ both rear brake setups on my corollas and try to make a determination @ what you missing as its been awhile since i have had a wheel off of either car (read: about 8 months, the last time i check the brake pads)

Very true, and isnt it one of those laws that fall into a grey area of personal interpretation? As i personally don't see 5 - 10 km under the posted speed limit an obstruction, where as other may see it as so, but when its half the posted speed limit or less its becomes a problem. as i said above it can be debated over and over and is a double edged sword

being considerate, should also take into account and understand that there are also people who do drive slower than the post speed limit. So when you think about it the original poster wasnt being considerate/understanding to the gent in the astra. This can be debated over and over and it is double edged sword, so your damned if you do damned if you don't :lolcry:

luc i hate to tell you this but you a ryan in your boot, you might have to get the industrial strength ryan killer to get rid of the little beggar otherwise you might end up with an infestation :lolcry: looking good though, can see the progress happening now :P

not if you get the most rear trailing arms with the brake package then there no need :lolcry: good luck with the brake conversion Calam05 :P oh did you get the m/c to suit? not a huge necessity but could come in handy later down the track, if you want to upgrade the rears again to the larger ae101 setup :)

you know that a speed limit is the fastest acceptable speed you are allowed to travel on that particular piece of road? if people wish to sit below it so be it, its their choice and if you read your road rules it should state that all traffic should travel in the left lane unless overtaking(which is what the right hand lane is for on a dual lane road:- that what it is in SA, and I'm pretty sure its like that nationally unless its got a sigh saying otherwise) and the member i was responding to said that the astra was doing 70 while the trucks in the left hand lane were going slower than that, so in actual fact the astra driver was well with in his right to be in the right hand lane as he was probably over taking the slower trucks. :P Oh and if you have to drive >30 minutes to work and you get held up by slower traffic that is your problem(ever thought about moving closer to where work or swapping jobs to one closer?) here is a suggestion leave an extra 10 -15minutes earlier, and if your early to work then have a coffee or a smoke or hell even have a power nap. +1 felix i would rather be late to work and get in trouble than not make it at all. hell if your late to work, just stay back that time you were late, its a no brainer really now its time to get down off of my soapbox and relax :lolcry:

their choice to do so, and they have as much right to be on the road as you do. Now i could understand your whinge if they were doing about half the posted speed limit, but 10km slower isnt going to cost you a great deal of time in the scheme of things. WGMG is customers who come in regularly between 12:15am and 12:30am and expect to be served when they already know that the computer/consoles/pumps are offline until end of day settling has been finalised and the new day begins. It irritates them more when they state they will complain to the "companys" customer service line, and i reply "with the your decision to do so sir/madam" and the explaination of "its company policy and procedure to do it at this time" and flash them a happy smile and give them the customer service number. :lolcry:

undo the metal hard line(be careful not to round the nut on the hard line) from the existing rubber hose, remove the metal clip that holds the rubber line to the strut. and the reverse to put back together, use new crush washers and bleed the brakes :lolcry: if i've missed anything, someone will add the extra info :P

Edit: never mind, there hasn't been anything else posted since the 29th of june

really not a great deal of notice at all probably better of with a minimum of a weeks notice would get a few people going :D i wont be there as i currently work friday -> sunday evenings almost every week now (will have to talk to my manger to see if i can get the last friday of every month off)

its all good, I'm in the same boat to long since i owned a vehicle with one as well.

left, as in passenger side? is the car lowered my experience here is based on early commodores, but it sounds as if its to long (not sure which way they run in e7) nickyboy, from my understanding if its to short it should be pulling the diff towards the drivers side of the car(if I'm wrong please correct me) :hmm:

no the ae86 rail wont fit into an ae9x. a suggestion would be to use a modified rail from a low spec ae92 (ie. se/cs or similar) or buy a universal rail and mod or buy a rail from the yahoo auction japan or build you own depending on where you are you may need to get the seat/rail combo engineered :wink:

i wouldnt think so considering the splines are part of a standard wheel.

LittleRedSpirit I'm going to disagree with you on some points here. the original poster wanted info about an 20v in a ae9x chassis i gave him info relevant to the ae8x/9x/10x. i have personally seen a 20v in fwd format and in its a original chassis pull a maximum of 85kw atw. plus i have seen dyno figures from other 20v's that have been put in ae8x's/9x's and they make around the 70 - 85kw mark and to put it in to perspective i dynoed my 16v same day as the 20v i got ~75 atw on my engine is old and tired. i do digress here a bit ill admit the 20v is a nicer refined engine over the 16v, but they arent the power houses people want them to be. plus i will still stand by the statement that the factory power figures were inflated, because the engines were usually tested sans ancillaries :wink:

noice :D