Super Jamie

yeah, it does suck. i think the only way to get anything to stay on an exhaust manifold is to have them coated with either ceramic or jet-hot or similar i reckon those glass bandage things, the heat wrap, would be a good idea

have you ever done it? i'm not challenging you, i'm asking cos if there is a paint out there for extractors, i'd like to know the brand and where i can get it :cool: i've painted exhaust manifolds with 1400F paint and it always always comes off

excellent, nice experimentation :cool:

aww tidy how much were they? what model are they? did you make rails or buy some or have them made?

a mechanic is going to charge you $700 labour to put a diff in a corolla? and you have to supply the parts? you have got to be kidding diff is easy, just a socket set and some ring spanners and a hammer is all you need. just knock the axles out and change the center, save you bothering with bleeding the brakes and all that rubbish most of us can change a jap diff center in under 2 hours, drive in drive out. your first time will be a bit longer, but it's just practice :cool:

jesus f@$k! if this is anything like the rb25det ae86 i saw, that body will fast be approaching its' stress limits. i reckon there'd be enough twist in that thing to pop the hatch open total unbalanced overkill but god damn it would be fun to watch

no paint ever stays on extractors :cool: stupid exhaust heat

awesome, good to see you guys back into it :cool: did you just paint the engine bay with cans? let us know how that goes, after say a few months or whatever, as far as paint quality and finish goes. i've heard conflicting stories about engine bays not sprayed with a gun, but have never bothered to try it myself

$700 would be the price of removing the center, sending it away to get all new gears and bearings and shimmed up to brand new specs, and installing it again. that IS what it costs to do that, but you can also just get a diff from the wreckers for $100 and a bottle of brake fluid and a bottle of diff oil and do it yourself in a weekend

generally, if you go to a toyota dealer, they'll let you photocopy a few pages out of the service manual if you ask politely it won't be too hard to take off anyway. they have a couple of bolts and a little wire and a big cable. unhook your battery before you start

dropjaw yaaaay pimp runner

i knew someone would start saying this :cool: every engine has its design flaws, you either work around them, or spend the money on something better. having both manifolds on the same side of the head, bugger all capacity, a fuel line that is likely to crack and spray petrol on the distributor, and needle and seat that get stuck and leave you stranded several hours from home aren't necessarily good points about an engine either, yet we stick with our beloved K engines because they are cheap/free i wouldn't spend big dollars on it cos it's just not worth it, if CA20s were that good then everyone would be building them, but they're not so nobody really is. if you can get the for free, do your mounts and efi fuel system and wiring on the cheap then go for it. you're going to have to engineer it and probably upgrade brakes. you could think of all that stuff as an investment, and stick in a CA18DE or something else powerful and efi which is better later on if it's going to cost you alot of money, then spend the little extra and start with a decent engine to begin with, you'll end up with a lot better and more reliable and powerful car with more potential that's just how i would do it anyway, it seems logical enough on paper

the driveline is rumored to be quite weak. i'm sure if you put a gze behind one and thrashed it, you'd be eating out diffs and shafts fairly regularly. but i think for a normal 4age and some sensible driving, you could build a nice unique little car. everyone knows wagons are pimpin :cool: i once saw an ae95 corolla 4wd wagon up the coast, painted british racing green and just neatly lowered on a tidy set of silver mags. it just had tints and exhaust and wasn't particularly fast, but it certainly turned my head! :y:

:marshmallows:

well, that was bound to happen eventually. massive holes don't just appear in cars overnight or from a curb bump

write a bill of sale to a mate for 50 bucks and sign it have him sell it back to you for 50 bucks and have him sign it you now legally own the car

red steelies, whitewalls :cool:

out of interest, what were the other 4?

that's what they mean. they are modification codes. LA1 means engine modification, etc

takes a back seat to no-one :)

that is an amusing exhaust, it's like a pisstake on people who put modern exhausts on old cars. i quite like it

then there is less initial force resisting the pump, so it pumps as much as it can quicker. generally, cutting a spring makes it stiffer

never fear, i bought a refidex :)

better than a stock K engine. if the price is right and its not going to cost you anything to mount it up, go for it

you can shim or cut the spring. the linkage just comes off with a circlip