Super Jamie

everyone interprets songs differently some people only listen to them FOR the lyrics, the music is meaningless. some people are there for the music, the lyrics are a superfluous addition that doesn't really matter. some people like both, or think that both go hand in hand. and sometimes it's different for different songs for me, just posting a big bunch of words with no music is pointless *shrug* just how i am

post artist and song, so we can download and listen. i mean, buy the itune and listen, of course :S

hahaha f@$k, talk about keen radar, sure you're not alcoholic? :P nice productive corolla-ness, can't wait to see progress pics :S and the end result ;)

yeah, go the the wreckers and get a tappet cover and cap with the screw fitting, or wait till geoff gets you one you can use 4A caps in 4K rocker covers, which is cool cos you can get trick trd billet ones for 4AGs :S you really shouldnt drive around without an oil cap, but its not going to kill the motor overnight, it will just make the engine bay messy and if the EPA pull you over then you're f@$ked i once saw a ke30 at the wreckers with a push-in oil cap, someone had drilled a hole in it and fastened a cable to it, which was connected to a bolt on the engine. i guess they had the same problem ;) the underbonnet of that car was CAKED in oil too, gross

seriously, just stick about 170-195lb springs in the front, have the back reset with stock leaves for tarmac, add an extra 2nd-from-top leaf for dirt, and you're ke25 will handle sweet as i'd say lower it between 35 and 50mm

CHECK OUT THE DISH!!! ;) :P :o i must say, for a retrotech kinda car, that looks pretty neat :S

valve clearance exists for several reasons. tappet noise, thermal expansion as the engine warms up, and yes, making sure the valve actually closes possibly the most important and strange effect valve clearance has is the different rate of cooling that it provides the valves if you get a valve too hot (often happens with exhaust valves) every time it closes, it will weld itself to the seat. as it's pushed open again, it takes a tiny little bit of the seat with it. do this enough times, and you get valve seat recession fairly quickly and your motor will be losing compression through the valve. setting the tappets larger/smaller gives the valve a different time to cool between each spark event this is why a mentally big camshaft usually comes with a larger valve clearance spec than stock. beacuse the engine is likely under more stress due to the other crap you'll have done to it as well, you need to go a little easier on the valves and give them more time closed. some cams are also just designed like that the tiddlywinks effect depends on the type of shim and mainly the lift of the cam. 4age engines have shim over, so you run a high-lift (10mm) cam and you need a screw-in shim kit. if you put too-big shims in a shim over engine, you'd just bind it up and bend the weakest point as the valve wipes over the bucket. which is probably the valve valve/piston contact will only happen in an interference style engine, or with a higher lift cam, which makes a non-interference engine an interference engine. you'd have to run ALOT of lift in a K engine to make it interfere. i don't know about 4As as nick said tho, essentially the best part of adjusting your tappets/shims is your ability to change how long the actual valve stays open, so you can get more air into the engine, and change how it comes out. this is tuning for optimum power on one cam profile. an engine is just an air pump, to make power, you want it to take a BIG breath, and hold it for as long as possible, without having a detrimental effect to allowing the next big breath in you can also change the power characteristics of the engine with adjustable cam gears, which essentially change the TIMING of the valves, without actually changing the cam itself the tradeoff to adjusting valve clearances for power is indeed reduced longterm reliability, and perhaps a bit of tappet noise if you're opening the valves up alot personally, i think you can close stock valve clearances up another 4 thou on the inlets, and 2 thou on the exhausts, for a bit better breathing. any cam under about 280 degrees could just have stock clearances, no worries

haha once matt's ke70 exhaust cracked and rusted out, so we got these ke30 extractors i had, and put them on, and they hit the firewall. so we welded a mandrel bend on there and got a straight bit of pipe onto it, but couldn't figure out the part over the diff cos we just didn't have that much pipe so he just drove it around with the exhaust ending under the passenger door. from lismore to toowoombah. and then around town and to work for a week. bahahaha

geoff is working on it. no, seriously :hammer:

believe it or not, this is actually a legal mod. mk2 escorts have a reverse light toggle switch, stock i haven't done anything too dodgy. unengineered ke70 brake upgrade on ke25 struts. springs held to bottom seats with cable ties beacuse they're not captive at full extension, even though that's not actually illegal either. non-adr-approved clear lights on my hilux. i've run wheel spacers before but who hasn't? hate the things i am most proud of the 114db exhaust on my ke25, legal limit being 96db, which passed roadworthy several years in a row, and survived several "random" breath tests, and even once getting pulled over slipping the ass out around a roundabout up in ormeau. queensland cops are so lazy, i love that state :hammer:

no, the spamming is over. anyone who posts from now on is a spamwhore inc me

this is all essentially the same thing as adjusting the tappets in your 4K to tighter clearances, so the valve stays open those few degrees longer which i remember explaining to you on msn a long time ago :y: now, a question for the class. WHY can't you just keep adjusting the tappets/shims up to get more duration? why is there a specified service spec for valve clearance? and what are the advantages/disadvantages/tradeoffs of adjusting valve clearance tighter for more performance? ps: nice to see another "teddy is thinking" post. haven't had one for a while :hammer:

i agree with rob here. people mess round with their swaybars and end up with a little light car which either understeers or bakes the inside wheel everywhere you really only need upgraded swaybars on one of these cars if you're doing REALLY high speed stuff, on big sweeping tracks. and in a sub-120hp car that's not likely to be something you'll be participating in stick with stock. paint them red like nick has, and watch people go "f@$k thats a huge bar man, what brand is it?" :hammer:

13bt in ke30 = not registerable in nsw. stick to the SR

i counter-refute and raise you another spam post :hammer:

DANGER TO INLET MANIFOLD :hammer:

ahh it's all good, it looks trick :hammer:

haha, the question shouldn't be "can the plane fly?" but "what gender is the plane and why?" :hammer: :y:

cool dude, everyone loves pics :hammer: welcome aboard ss rollaclub, toot toot! have a read of our faq, heaps of specific info and general guides in there :y:

yeah but what's it from? like where did you get it and what's it's original intended application?

:hammer: it runs on air!!! is it just that jerry can strapped over in the corner? lol

i have a better answer WHO CARES :hammer:

it usually plugs into the shifter, check the carpet around the shifter hole

i like models, pity i suck at them http://www.hobbyco.com.au/ http://www.gatewaymodels.com.au/ http://www.scaleautomobilia.com.au/carindex.htm http://www.hobbyhq.com.au/ http://www.auswidemodels.com.au/ http://www.hobbybox.com.au/ http://www.hobbynet.com.au/modelling/retail/index.htm

"crikey" :)