Super Jamie

you have static compression and you have dynamic compression static compression is the bore and combustion chamber divided by the combustion chamber. this is the 8.5:1 and 9.5:1 you have described above dynamic compression is the compression the engine sees when it's running, this is related to the above two figures, but also to stroke of the crankshaft, profile of the camshaft, and air density air density is the big point on a forced engine, as you're making the air more dense than one atosphere. this is called boost now i'm going to get all mathematical on you let's say you have an imaginary engine. this engine is constructed in such a way that you can put 10 units of air into the combusion chamber at full compression stroke before it blows up naturally aspirated, with 9.5:1 compression, let's say you're forcing 8 units of air together. no worries now slap a turbo on it, and put half a bar of boost on, and you're at 10 units of air. your engine is on its stress point. it's still nice to drive off-boost because of the high compression, it's just like normal, and it's got a little bit of punch up top, but you can't go any further take the turbo off and drop the compression to 8.5:1, and let's say you're only compressing 5 units of air now. the motor is a little bit slower but still quite driveable bolt your turbo back on and wind a whole bar of boost in. you're up to 10 units of air again, except you are making a shitload more power when the motor comes on boost this is roughly how air works. the way the numbers work is not linear. one point of compression doesn't equal one bar of boost. rather, if you plotted it on a graph, it would be exponential in other words the more you are willing to drop static compression, the more room you have to compensate when you increase dynamic compression by adding boost i hope that helps, it's about the simplest way i can think of describing it i just pulled those numbers out my ass, they are roughly correct, the idea is right anyway. there do actually exist fomulas out there for calculating dynamic compression based on boost, i just can't be bothered remembering them, that's what spreadsheets are for

i'm sure we all have our opinions of toymods. let's just put our money where our mouth is and not post there if we feel so inclined

it looks phat. i reckon two similar but different cars with the same wheels would be cool parked together

ozzy rsgt's are similar. those look like rays wheels of some sort

you can buy drums of toluene from any fuel distributor. about 40 bucks for 20 litres. mix it 1:7 with fuel being the majority of the mix. excellent for boosting octane. wear heavy gloves and a respirator, go to a welding shop and buy them, they're cheap enough, this stuff is instant cancer

that's right, by changing the length and rate of the spring, you can adjust the amount of fuel that gets discharged by the pump, and how quickly it gets released. well spotted :)

he wants a step-by-step on how to put one into his ke corolla

get a multimeter and set your timing static. i don't know what sort of distributor you have, but set the points gap and dwell angle if you can as well i agree with rollaboy, if this is all too hard or you don't have the tools, take it to someone who does have them i have seen too many people pull the heads off engines which had nothing wrong with them. and doing the camshaft and timing belt on a 4ac isn't something you can ordinarily just "bung on and drive" you're lucky your car is even running dude. fix it properly

that's because there are only two topics about L16s in corollas, it's not a very common conversion. all the answers to your questions are not on the internet, some things you just have to trial and error yourself

i used to have a single 2/3rds core. i had to drive around with the heater and fan on full in the middle of summer

surprisingly not shaky at all, it was a great car to drive except for the goddamn 114db exhaust that 200 was also with the bonnet catch sprung and resting up against the bonnet pins. i wonder how much of a difference that made?

i must say, a light buzzer is one of the most useful things in the world

well that "works", everyone should just run it like that then catch cans are gay, toyota said so in the 60s

i've had a mouthful of petrol once before, not something i wish to repeat in a hurry

i had a 3 core also. never got above halfway, even just sitting idling in summer. i paid $270 i think

ah f@$kit ke25. 200km/h :) the eg6 civic i was racing started pulling away about 190 i wonder if forum posts are admissable in court :P

but no comparison between the two, maybe one is a better way than the other? you can also just remove the pcv system altogether, and the oil still stays in the sump and lubricates the surfaces. it "works", but it's not ideal

it hurts my eyes. i like the original

gem used to work for him, i'm sure she's seen more to him than the half an hour of scripted constructed infomercial garbage the rest of us get to see it was never said that anyone was happy he was dead, just that one wishes the worst for him in his current situation i suggest you get your facts straight, sonny jim

i have an idea, do both of these things, with a new change of oil at the start of each. check the condition and color of your oil every 250km until it goes black and thin. then you can tell us wether our theories are right or not :)

nice. seriously, even a modern 1g-fe would be good. it's a 2 litre six, it's going to absolutely haul ass in a ke70 no matter what head's on it i personally see the need for a reliable cheap daily driver and a separate project car, trying to do both in the one vehicle is stressful and restrictive. the rest depends how many cars you have already, if they won't let you keem them all, then decide which you like best and say goodbye to the others

rotor boys regularly put 9 second passes through corona 4 speed boxes they buy from the wreckers. on the odd occasion when one actually does break, they're cheap as dirt to replace. the only bad thing about them is the 4-speed-ness, and they get a bit of a sloppy shift when they're old these are known as a steel case toyota box, the transmission code is W40 to the original poster: research the hilux/peugeot front brake upgrade. that will make your car stop excellently! personally, i'd consider handling more fun than power. you do need a little bit of poke, so you can actually use the suspension. power without handling is frustrating to drive, but it gets you street cred at the traffic lights

several of us have had corollas that will wind off the speedo the feds read forums so that's all i'll say

i did a big rant on here ages ago about ethanol and the other fuels. i have tried caltex/mobil regular back to back against bp regular and noticed no difference whatsoever. buy whatever's cheapest to my knowledge, woolworths/coles just buy the branding for a pre-existing caltex/mobil/shell site, and apply their staff/management structure to the existing staff. i don't believe suppliers change. but i'll ask next time i'm doing a job in a woolies plus petrol if you buy no-name fuel, you obviously don't give a shit about your car anyway. enjoy being thrifty new cars that are designed to use ethanol-based fuels are fine with it. old corollas were not designed to run on ethanol-based fuels, ethanol fuels sound like a good way to f@$k your fuel pump diaphragms, and rebuild kits for them are over $90, and you'll be doing it maybe every year or more or less? up to you to decide which is more economical, trial and error

i'd say it's the low profile tyres, they don't fill the guards as well and make it look out of proportion. ironically, normal ratio tyres make your wheels look bigger or maybe it's just that photo fat old skool hotwires look good :)