Taz_Rx

beautiful, thanks for that felix. Just found some that I can pick up today!! and thank god I don't have to buy 100 of them!! :P

So with these valve stem seals, do you think I should just go to nuts and bolts and go through their o-rings, or go through toyota, and pay 15 times as much to have the specific ones??

Don't bother I'll tell you why. Its basically because they class the rotary engine as a 2 stroke. This is were the double figure come from. But to be correct, they should actually tripple it rather than double. The reason being there is 3 full revolutions of the eccentric shaft (rotary crank shaft) for 1 full revolution of the motor. Ie, to have a combustion in all 3 faces of 1 rotor, the e-shaft will turn 3 times. So yes, in terms of racing it's deffinately double. Thats why even 12a powered cars have to race in the "Improved production - Over 2 litres".

Just sourced a KM20 liteace clutch fork from a wreckers in Vic. Should be here next week, then I will move on with the next steps. :P

I also took a couple of pics of a K40 sitting next to the W50. Although its hard to see in the pics, they are both actually the same length. This mean when it comes to tail shaft time, ity will only be a matter of changing the yoke and universal to suit the W50, and I will not have to shorten or lengthen the tail shaft. I also dicover when doing this that the shifter for the W50 will end up coming through in a KE70 GB postioin, rather than the KE30-55 position. I can live with that though! :P

so with that done it was time to move onto the clutch fork STEP 2 - FITTING CLUTCH FORK I removed the clutch fork, locating lug and fork boot, though this is sort rooted from a K40....... .....and fitted them..... But now I have a problem!! You can see in the last above pic that the raised rocker siction for the TOB retainer is offset to the centre of the spline. So at the moment I am going to search for a KM20 liteace/townace clutch fork. As thats what the BH is from its should centre the TOB and retainer in the correct position. If I was to use the K40 clutch fork, its also not "open" enough to take the RA40/W50 TOB and retainer, see below..... And yes, I do have to use the W50 TOB and retainer as the K40 one will not fit over the bigger input shaft of the W50.

Ok Guys, update of last nights work...... STEP 1, MAKING THE BELL HOUSING FIT THE GB I was correct in assuming that the 4 bolts on the BH would bolt up to 4 (of the 7) on the W50. Only drama here is a small round pertrution on the front of the GB casing, pictured below..... This was just a matter of grinding away a small part of alloy to accomodate it........ So with that all done the GB and BH are now 1! :P ~

couple more new bits..... :P

Hey Guys, Can ANYBODY have a look in there local yellow pages and give me a phone number for a wrecking yard that speacialises in Vans?? Or does anybody know of a wrecking yard that has a KM20 liteace/townace in it?? I'm after a clutch fork from one. thanks, Si.

You mean one of your mates etc? Mine is, I can take pics of my rego papers to prove it! Maybe you should tell your mate he's getting ripped by the gov!!

yeah good point. rotary spec'd T04's (in different trims, ie T04b, T04z etc) have friggen huge exhaust wheels due to the ammount of gas they pass. If you were to put one of these T04's on the 3t it'll lag all day!! :P

with the 13b you mean, not the 2janker!! :P :D

anybody want a 5k dishy head, hydro lifters and pushies?

Its just a hell of a lot more "chunky" than the k box, not heaps bigger in size. I will take some pics of it tonight sitting next to a k40 for ya. Gotta do a rough line up of the 2 to check shifter position as well. The add I put on club-k to find this got 2 replies..... http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=9756 I bought the one "Harlet" had, but "Andy C" had another one, his email addy is in the post. Maybe just wait a week or two, see how I go with mine and then get that one!? I paid AUD$160 for my FYI, with a $25 international transfer fee through my bank. W50 cost me $50, so this is a much more cost effective option to your $300 just for the bell housing!! Rang REPCO today to find out about a custom clutch plate for the set up. PBR will make me a k clutch plate with the input shaft spline for a W50 for $165 (non-trade price), but that were quite adement that as soon as it leaves there work shop, they will be taking no ownership of it. Basically as is, were is. Thats just for a clutch plate BTW, no pressure plate or TOB.

:P first "2jz Master" now you too!! whats next, pac gunna start building jz drag cars!! So its still un tubbed then? whats the best the 13b ran, and how much quicker do you think the new set up will be?

I'm really over arguing black and blue about this with piston heads now. :D Tip for any other rotor owners out there though: 13b...... Pay rego for a 1.3 litre..... and claim km's for tax return as a 2.6 litre!! :P

was it you who had the ta45 13bt ke20 that was on ar.com? or am I thinking of somebody else!

They're for the mazda, just gotta mod them slightly and she'll be wearing RS5's soon. :P

hence the reason I've been fuggin around with the van bell housing all night, because a k40/50 aint strong enough for me!! :D Just a quick update too guys, the bell housing got in from NZ today. Cracked the w50 bell of and it deffinately does fit. only small drama in attaching the bell housing is a 50c piece size lump on the front of the box, just going to grind a little recess out of the bell to make it sit flush. I'll take heaps of pics along the way. :P

:bash: any chance of getting a pic of the box in your town ace then? would just like to see how big they look etc. Might even just be a k40/50!!

there wouldn't be much difference to the column shift ones. The hiace I used to drive for work had a "floor shift", but it would just be the same as your town ace with cable attached to the bottom of the shifter running back at least a metre to the rear extension housing of the gear box. And again, can't see these boxes being al that much stronger than a k40/50! :bash:

Just cleared up a couple of things. :bash: * all T25/T28/T25G/etc etc are internally gated. S15 and GTiR T28 are ball bearing. Another thing to note about T25/T28's is some of them have ceramic (rather than steel) wheels. These will part company with the turbo at around 15psi!! :cool: Seriously, if you already have a t04 mani for the 3t, use it. Is much bigger, and will be more drivable than the T25. Plus you have the potential to make a shite load more power.

Don't have either sorry John. Have pic of the turbo I picked up last night. Its a T28 off an R32 GTR. :bash: and this was how much shite I stripped off the 5k last night, plus the head, lifters and pushies, not pictured.

What sort of a gear box up grade would that be though. I'm doing all of this to try and get away from the weak strength of a k box. Can't see the hiace column shift boxes being much stronger than a k40/50!!