Taz_Rx

hitting stuff/spinning out is half the fun and the way you learn!! :hammer: If you really wanna learn how to drift you've gotta be prepared to crash!!! :P I once hit a gutter so hard sideways (about 70kmh) that my passengers beanie came off his head!! that one cost me one of the westerns I have on the front, smash the fug out of it, bend the axle and shattered the wheel bearing!!! was a fun skid but!! :lolcry: The diff moved so far accross the car it dented the trans tunnel a bit!! still drove it home though, thats the good thing about rollas - there nearly indestructable, and most of the time even if you do have a bit of a bingle you still get it home!! :jamie:

I know stuff all about SU's so I'll let someone else answer that one!! boost+K?? reckon they'd be sealed pretty well though. might just be a case of adding some strategically place goop here and there to make sure!!

so you wanna skid comp for slips dan!!?? :P :jamie: cams good now that I've got used to it!! did you get the PM I sent about running more boost!? lifters are on the way btw. :lol: ArJay- Sometimes, depending on the carby if you just put the boosted air into the inlet of the carby like boost+k's you can get boost leaks through the gaskets etc of the carby. the box is something I originally thought of to avoid this problem. basically there is equal pressure on the outside and inside of the carby in the box so theres no point in it leaking through the gaskets!! short answer- I'm lazy!! :cool:

yeah its a ct12, thought about the ct20, but itas just a matter of finding one that will fit in with my tight arse rolla budget!! :jamie: might end up with a t2 or some thing one day.

Its only a few months old!!! its an rpm heavy duty that I put in when I blew the last GB!!! gave it a bit of an adjust so its closer to the floor, so hopefully it just wasn't fully releasing the pressure plate!! GOT MY TORQUE BACK TOO!!!!! screwed a couple more pounds into her and flicked the switch!! :jamie: with the switch on it will spike 12, run 10 during the day, so by the time its spiked an come back down its just on cam!!! :cool: oh and runs 12 at night now too!! :lol:

I just went home to adjust my clutch!!!!!!! :jamie: :cool: was there smoke coming out from under the car!!?? :lol:

6 of 1, half a dozen of the other on that one. yes you will end up with lower compression with the 4k head on the 3k. but it the 3k going to pass enough gas to get a tdo4 moving!! its only 100cc less than the 4k so maybe.......one way to find out I guess!!! :lolcry: oh btw, yes we are just running stock C/R. I have changed the compression **at time of firing** in the top end by having the dizzy locked!

so back under the bridge near the marine shop were the last one was!!??

so is this on a 4k!? cause rolla_boys was a 5k! correct??

NickZ is the man you wanna talk to, his bro has a charged 4k! thats injected however. Couple of things I can think of though are: is the butterfly closing all the way propperly?? also do SU's have air bleeds like webers etc?? could these possibly be a bit too big!?

I go to hobart atleast once a fortnight in my work van if any launy guys want anything brought up from hobart or vice versa. next trip is on tuesday (18th). :lolcry:

sorry that something I should have added. YES the rising rate regs DO HAVE return lines!!!! some (like the one I have) has a fuel in, fuel out- to the carby, a return line to the tank, and the vacuum line. the rest are more like an EFI malpassi being used ON THE END of a fuel rail. they have a fuel in, return line and the vacuum line. the way you can set these up is have a hose coming from the pump, then t-piece it with 1 line going to the carby and the other going to the reg. some EFI pumps have relief valves in them, but they are normaly in-tank pumps and squirt the fuel out of the body of the pump, so you can't use one of these out side the tank without filling your boot with fuel!! :lolcry: boost+k, I suppose that idea with the holley reg would work as long as it was a diaphram. but do they have a return line on them!?

yeah it does need to be rising rate. they have a vacuum/boost line into them and for every psi of boost it gets it will up the fuel pressure by 1 psi!! this is how you get a base pressure the standard needle and seat will handle and then a more fuel pressure than boost pressure when you are on boost!

so when you actually going to put the engine in jamie!?

so is he being charged with danger driving or something equivalent and also fleeing the scene of an accident!!!

without saying too much, looks like it was taken to gagebrook as a decoy by the LAUNCESTON guys who stole it!!!! can't say too much yet as revenge has not yet been taken, and I don't want the theives to read this!!! :lolcry:

I use a weber not the standard so not exactly sure on what size to drill out to. if you PM Untubbbed_20 he would be able to tell you however. I bought one of the rising rate regs I spoke about off ebay, ended up costing me $66 including frieght. :) also as far as intercoolers, if you can hold of a cheap turbo mx6 cooler, you will notice just how damn easy these are to put in a rolla!! ;) silvia coolers are like a slice of toast!! :lolcry:

Hi Jarich, T25 or T2 would be really good on a 4k. any turbo from a 1500cc to 2000cc engine will do, depends what you can get your hands on. intercoller is very much optional on that sorta psi (as you are probably aware, the lowest boost pressure you can run is that of the standard wastegate!). I'm now running one which does make a noticable difference in under-bonnet temps, and a small difference in performance. I also run 6 and 10psi though. a good way to jet the standard carby is swap the secondary to the primary and drill out the primary bigger than the secondary...if you can follow that. with running a standard carby however your main problem is the pressure tolerenace of the needle and seat. they will only hold >5psi!! the problem being you need to have more fuel pressure than boost pressure, so if you entend on running 5-6psi you need to have around 8psi of fuel pressure, which the standard needle and seat will not hold!!! this can be overcome by using a rising rate reg, similar to what you would be accustomed to with turbo EFI nissan, but for a carby application. the only difference between them is the pressure- EFI's will use from 30psi to 100psi but with the carby ones you can set them on say 4psi base pressure (which your needle and seat will handle) with boost refencing from there on at 1:1. so by the time your on 6psi the needle and seat will be seeing 10psi of fuel pressure. with this option you can just use an EFI pump, depending on the size of it however you may want to run it through a balist resister to drop it down to 6 volts, ie my VL turbo pump is now making around 50psi rather than the 100psi it normally would!!! and half the volume. the other way to skin the cat is to use a weber carby, ie 32/32, 32/36 etc. the needle and seats on these small webers will handle up to about 12psi, so if you use a carter black (100GHP @ 12-14psi) or similar you will then be resticted to around 10psi of boost pressure (2psi less than fuel pressure) and the needle and seat wil hold it!! in this case you would not use a reg at all!! locking the dizzy is a 20 minute job, just replace the 2 springs on the mechanical advance with a couple of small cable ties!! all the oil and water jazz is easy as. deffinatly feasable, and the torque increase is awesome!! think i've cleared up a bit of your other queries above. have fun!!!

had to make a few "speacially tools" lately to remove parts like flywheels and crank pulleys from a 12a. ie, get a nice solid piece of steel that you could drill holes in and bolt to the pulley somewhere, then give it a good tap with a "persuader". just make sure you don't bash it too hard and imbed the pulley in your radiator!!!! :hmm:

damn :hmm: ok, so then in order of combustion chamber size from smallest to biggest the heads go 5k-3k-4k!??? I would make this assumption on the fact that people use 3k heads to raise C/R on a 4k! if thats the case then it really sucks for me if I want to lower the C/R on my 4k cause either a 5k or 3k head will infact raise my compression!!! :y: btw, pm's are now working again so I will send through bank details for the return of the lifter, that is if you still want them as I saw that you are selling the 5k!?

ok :hmm: ,....... so is there something I'm missing with a 5k block/3k head compared to a 4k block/3k head!??? I just thought it would be the same as putting a 3k head on a 4k to raise the compression!! do the 5k's have a very small combustion chamber or something?? and therfore run quiet high compression!?? I was under the impression that if I got a 5k head for my 4k that this would lower the C/R on my 4k, but if the above is true then this would actually raise the C/R correct??

:dance: haha, was waiting for it. as much as i'd like a proper turbs mani, i just wanna see this thing!!

lowering the compression for the turbo can be done in more than 1 way rather than just lowering the compression ratio!!! my 4k has a standard head and compression ratio, and rather than changing that I have locked the dizzy off on about 20 degrees befor. this way when you load her up/high rpm the delayed spark degreases the compression at the TIME OF FIRING with the standard C/R!! so are you going to run the 3k head for the turbo set up!? isn't that just going to give you a higher C/R than that of the standard 5k!? :dance: what dizzy are you currently using? electronic?

haha, yeah us tassie boys are on the ball, buying parts off you before they even come out of your car!!! :dance: to explain the A/R simply....its basically the compression ratio of the turbo. the higher that number the higher the boost will be for the same amount of rotations of then compressor wheel. think of it like changing the pitch of a prop on a race boat> more water/(air) flow for the same rpm! :abuse:

thats what I wanna know, can we get a pick of this turbo manifold!!????? :dance: