Taz_Rx

nice work dan.......now spend some blody money on the 7!!!! :) I'm like that but, keep spending small amounts on the rolla, when I should be spending larger amounts on the mazda. was the $70 for the whitewalls to have the white inserts put into tyres you already had?? :D

whats obligatory about Rx-X mazdas!!!!!!!!!!! :) the reason I also have a rotary is to have something completely different!!! :D

no, and mainly because they are a pushrod motor.

mate of mine has a guard roller now and is wanting to do some cars for some spare cash. if you were at the drift day at basky the other week, you may have seen his matt black aw11 with a big sticker up the side for guard rolling. if you got quoted $80 for someone to do it with a hammer, I reckon he would do it for about $50 with the roller. you'd just have to bring your car to launy one week ned for him to do it. if your interested lemme know and I double check with him. :)

I've got a grill, headlights, spings, and adjuster screws you can have pretty cheap. PM me if interested. IIRC, you don't any brackets behind the lights, only squareys have these. and I think the plugs are the same. would be willing to do a straight swap - square stuff for round stuff!!??

mmmm, for some reason I wanna go buy an AERO bar now!! ;)

I dropped my head off about 10am on a saturday, picked it up by 12pm!! If they wern't busy you could wait there for 15 minutes while they did it. ;)

BTW, genuine toyota H/G's are like $80 odd, just get a "permaseal" or other gasket, they're just as good for like $23!!! they'll have the torque specs on a piece of paper with the gasket aswell. :o

well its true!!!!! ;) Are you going to get your car engineered for the T series engine!!!?? :P

pfffft......the car is in tassie!!!! :P would propably pass cert as is but. won't be selling it for another 5-6 months, so you would have to ask me of a price then. or if you want it now, make a reasonable offer. :P

got your PM, will just reply here though for future referance of others. I have a new door for it courtesy of NickZ, needs to be sprayed. Also have a new bonnet, was just gunna give that the matt black treatment. other dented pannels include both front guards and the front lower apron, also have broken grill and headlight, but new ones are on the way. don't wanna do any swaps as I need to get rid of a car as may be going overseas as mentioned above. will need to put the my mazda into storage as it is. :P price will really depend on how much I have fixed up before sale, but would probably be looking for around $2k with all the parts I have including a set of 13 x 7 hotwires, 7x 13 x 7 spitfires ( one was a victim of drift damage), set of 14" "swiss cheesers" sigma wheels, another set of cordia wheels, spare diff centre, complete drum to drum diff, 2x gear boxes, maybe a 3k, blah blah blah.

only pics I have at the moment are from one of the rolla meets. baby shit browner..... here a pic of under the bonnet. only thing different in that pic now is the new fuel pressure reg and pressure guage on top of the tappet cover. in the build......

Funny you should say,........my corolla wil probably be for sale in about 6 months as I thinking of taking a job overseas!! :P don't know how much as yet, as I will probably fix a few things up for sale (like dents), however most of the purchase price will be for that of the under bonnet components. its a ke55e with a turbo 4k, toyota ct12 turbo, custom piping, camtech 609, mx6 front mount cooler, fiat 128 32/32 weber in custom inclosure, malpassi rising rate reg and Vl fuel pump, 2 stage switchable boost controller on 6 and 10psi, 4 speed, CIG locker (will come with open wheeler aswell), interior has 180sx front seats, speco tacho, VDO boost guage, spitfire oil pressure guage, sports wheel, kenwood head unit and speakers. will also come with buyers choice of 13 x 7 hotwires or spitfires (jelly beans as referred to here) both with *dish option* :P would probably want to sell it WITH all the parts I have accumilated, so this would probably put the bill around $2000. :)

I thought Dave McPherson had the quickest untubbed rotary in Aus!!? :P

I do...........a k serie engine!!! :dance: All toyota engine have always been soooo damn reliable and near unbreakable (well maybe excepting a 7mgte :) ) and as mentioned above so easy to mod and so damn easy to find parts for cheaply. I think 70% of australian rotary owners nearly have a toyota as a second car!! :jamie: :jamie:

my 4kc regularly sees 10-12psi with a turbo, seen it bounce off 15psi befor aswell and its still alive!! :) has completely standard bottom end, and head, just has a different cam now. :jamie:

do I win a prize!! :lolcry:

next time you find one let me know, guessing you're talking about at tassie wreckers etc?

so you need to do an auto conversion now do you since you only have one arm and one leg!!!!!? :P :P

Hey redwarf - have you seen carby socks get sucked into the velocity stacks!!! when I used to have them on my 13bbp with a 48 IDA. JUST FREE REVVING, it would get to about 5-6 grand and suck them right down in, then you shoulda seen the black smoke!! :P I would highly recommend K&N's. they might be the most expensive air cleaners around, but thats cause they're also the best!!! :P just look after them properly by using the proper cleaner and oil. :)

sounds very similar to a kit a mate of mine has for a 2 litre 626. has the cross over pipe with the HSK in cast alloy that just presses on top of a carb, think the manifold also has a HSK stamp on it and a turbo with no branding on it. he bought if off a car that got written off, came with a single throat stromberg carb. we've been thinking about adapting the cross over pipe to go on a 626 carby, (which fit on k manifolds) and putting it on my car and getting rid of the box to see if it'll flow much better!!

check your timing!! if its too far advanced that will cause you problems trying to start it!!

what were those headlights worth each!?? they look really good!

yes and no!! the box might be an "easy way out" but in practice it has a few challenges!! few things you would want to keep in mind if you were to go down that path are: depth of the lower half of the box! - you want something pretty shallow so you can get to the bolts/nuts that hold down the carby (depends on what carby you use) and also get your hands in there to tune it. but you also want it to be high enough the be able to get a trottle cable and fuel line through the bottom part, cause you don't want to have to take these off to get to the carby for tuning etc every time you take off the lid. the seal between the upper and lower parts - you need something that is going to hold the amount of boost you are intending to run. this was my biggest problem when I first got it running and took a while to sort. what I ended up doing is putting threaded rods the same hight as my box that bolt to the lower half and then have wing nuts on the top, this way you can screw it down nice and hard and so far mine has held up to 15psi!!

so you got it going!! what was the problem??