Taz_Rx

$100 for the spitty is pretty good. don'e paint the whole wheel gold, they will look like shite, just do the bit thats originally painted. heres a tip for painting with with bits you want to leave raw (polished) espeacially hotwires: around the lip and over the top of the spokes smear the metal with just enough GREASE to cover it, don't go over the top with it. then paint the areas you want painted, let it dry properly, and then wipe the grease off with a rag. basically the grease just works like masking (like masking tape when painting house walls etc.) as the paint does not dry or stick to the grease!! :D

Oh my god!!!! and some people think that my setup is "agricultural"!!!!! atleast he's done the fuel system the right way with the rising rate reg! Slideways32, reckon you'd be better off trying to find a k-series efi setup for around $150 rather than trying to adapt the shitty.....sorry city efi. you're still obviously going to need the ecu etc to run it, but rather than having to make all new plenums, manifolds etc, it will just bolt straight on!!

just a word of warning with that cooler matt - I've found lately after putting my cooler in that the enigine seems to get hot very easy. It took me a little while to put it down to the fact that the coller overlaps half of the radiator, hench reducing the flow of air through the radiator!!! you would think that it would make that much difference, but I am sure that this is what is causing my overheating problems. are you just going to be using a standard k radiator in behind that cooler?? cause if so I can see you having the same problem, except maybe worse as you're overlapping the whole thing!!

was the engine originally turbo'd?? ;) how is it setup on the car?? blowthrough or draw through??

;) just give me your car, about $1500, and a couple of weeks, and you can have it back with a PROPPER TURBO on it. And I can garentee around 50hp extra from your 4k!!!!!! ;) :P spelling fairy says: With guaranteed proper spelling and all??

fair enough.....he was suppose to msg me if it didn't sell. :P weren't the front guards a bit butchered from fitting the flares though?? thats why I wanted to buy the flares aswell.....and to cover up some rust in the rear guards. ;)

damn q, thats who got them, shoulda know!! :P did you buy the whole car........cause rob1 said he was selling the whole thing, cause I was going to 100% buy the front guards, apron and flares cause they were the same colour as mine! are they his wheels too or those other ones that you had re-sprayed? btw, when are we gunna have a rolla vs rolla run?? ;)

diddo lloyd!! and $100, you got yourself ripped!!!! ;) should of gone to aus spring in invermay, they make them in the thickness and length you want at about $10-$15 each!!!! oh, and if you are going to keep those ones, then DO cut them. by the looks of it, if you get a flat in the back end, you'll go very close to sitting on the u-bolts. do it in the car with the NUTS ON, then if you ever need to take them off again, the nut will re-cut the thread at the end.

whats the point of using a different head to raise compression, and then putting a de-comp plate in it to bring it back down again!! :P ;) ps, pabs are dead shits and will normally give you absolutely no "usefull" info. the de-comp plate they spoke about is probably 1 that you would use to de-comp an engine for turboing!! pps,........your grammar still leave a bit to be desired!!

coming along there nicely by the looks of it matt. what turbo you going to use?? and what are you doing with the manifold there?? are you just welding a flange for the turbo onto the hot-box gasket spot??

not very hard, but not very viable either. ideally you would de-comp 12at rotors and a 12at injection set up............bottom line,........better off just buying a 12at!!!

think I might be going down on Friday with the missus anyway. ......like I don't get enough of Hobart!!! :D

I sold them to josh. :D don't get your hopes up being able to get them to fit a corolla though. they are 4 x 114.3 multistud, but there FWD offset (+38). thats why I waiting for my custom made 4 x 114.3 / 4 x 110 +20 rs5's from Japan, which you've missed out cause it was a group buy, that will never happen again!!!

thats when you know you're really pushing your engine to its limits...... pistons are strong enough,.....head bolts are strong enough,......crank is strong enough,.......block isn't!!!!!! :D :) :(

josh and quinton, I could deliver the diff to hobart if you can get it to me Q!?

nice wheels on the bluey!!!! :y: still waiting for my news rs5's!!! :y: group buys starting to go a bit sour, will be spewing if we miss out and I sold those ones to you!!! ;)

you would want to pay about $500 to ensure you're not buying a POS!!! thats why I said before that $100 for a "perfectly running" 12a would be a bit too cheap!! ;)

Stuart Milner..........well that explains it then!!! :D

yep that was me. :D

come to think of it, it probably wouldn't be all that hard to make one!!! just make up a template with cardboard for the "bolt on" bit, get another fitting from enzed with a barbed end and a thread end, tap out the bolt on bit and screw in the fitting. :D

I just saw it drive through town about 30 minutes ago. GT wing and hub caps....good look!!! :D

:D :D :D :D 1, having had both a 12a and currently a 13b, there is not much difference between the 2 engines. a bridge ported 12a will beat a stock 13b anyday,......hell one of my mates 12abp 323 is quicker than my 13bbp down the quarter!!!! 2, rx4 4 speeds are still findable quite easy if you look in the right places.....www.ausrotary.com :D rx5/121 5 speeds are also quite a good box and arn't too hard to find either. expect to pay anywere between $200 - $350. 3, don't bother with a s4 turbo box for an NA 12a or 13b, your looking at atleast $400 for the box and will have to upgrade the clutch and flywheel to the s4 9.5 inch items. if you wanna start pushing 300+hp, then look at this option. 4, yes its quite common to see people running up to about 400hp with a corona 4 speed, so this is another viable option. 5, $100 for a 6 port 12a, which ancillaries means its f@$ked. 6, another option with the cross member/sump deal is to make a custom sump and oil pick up!!

the oil banjo fittings and right angle fitting you can get from ENZED, maybe $20 for the lot. don't know about the bit on the far left though, what is it for the oil return or something??

I went out for a sticky about 2:30, you drove past me in the rx4 brendo on your way back. was wondering why you still weren't there! :D

with sufficient prep on the cast area to be welded you can.