Taz_Rx

Ooh, its already off!!!! yeah thats were I mean. check the three bolt holes around it and make sure there isn't any bolts snapped in it. the closest one to the engine is the most common to snap, the back 2 you should be able to see daylight looking through them from memory.

haha, you probably forgot about the americans cruising the site!! :)

I can weld up the air recirculation bit for you, just get an exhaust shop etc to get those 3 hot box bolts out in 1 piece for you. :)

nah wrong flange. I'm talking about were the exhaust manifold and inlet maifold are bolted together. the ke70 ones have the stupid hot air recirculation shit on them, so what i did was use my ke55 inlet with the ke70 exhaust and welded up the outlet for the air researc. they're the 3 "hot box" bolts I'm talikng about. you can see the welded recirc thing in this pic.

yeah merc C111 concept. its actually a MR not a 4wd. had 3 and 4 rotor wankels. I just put some more info about them in the "wackiest engine conversion" thread. your turn Mr Hardware!!

would probably be looking a around $100-$150 for a decent mandrel steam pipe J. obviously this could be cheaper if it was press bent or made from mild steel, but it you're gunna do it you might aswell do it properly to start with, unlike me!!! :) that side of the engine is pretty cramped for room being a pre cross-flow engine, and also having the alternator and starter motor on that side aswell. heat wouldn't really be an issue. you could move the turbo a bit closer to the engine than what mine is, but this would also give you issues in trying to get an exhasut off the back of it!!! the only hassles in putting it were the battery is is relocating it to the boot and running new wiring for that. also there is a little bit of wiring that runs down that side of the engine bay, that would become pretty close to some hot exhaust. I have hidden all of this wiring and run it through the guard. If you have a look a few pages back at boost+k's setup you will see he has made a metal heat guard to protect this wiring. btw, with the ke70 exhaust manifold, be bloody carefull trying to get the bolts out that bolt it to the inlet manifold cause they can snap REALLY easy because of the heat they have been under. I would highly recommend actually taking it to an exhaust shop and getting them to heat it with an oxy and take it out slowly. then go and get yourself a new "hot box" gasket from somewhere and bolt it to your ke30 inlet. when I had mine apart I actually re-tapped the holes in the exhaust manifold and bought new high tensile bolts for my own piece of mind. :(

yeah too small for a 3k still, they flow a litre of ags on a 1g! get anything from an engine of 1500cc to 2000cc. so a nissan turbo such as an s13/14 t25, t28, exa or ET turbo. a subaru 2 litre turbo, ie tdo4 (which is going on the other launy 4k i spoke about) or to stick with toyota stuff even something like a ct16 off a 3tgte- there a guy in hobart with one for sale. step 1: get a turbo.... step 2: get a j-pipe made up.... step 3: everything else!!! :)

try boosted with a CIG locker!!!!!!!!!! :)

its a "Renault 4" :) the ansewr to this one can be found with a quick serach of rollaclub!!! :(

fuel line: has a hollow threaded rod about 30mm long that is clamped in by a nut on either side of it with a bit of gasket goop. rubber lines them go over that to the carby on the inside and the reg on the outside. cable: has a rubber washer on either side, inside the adjuster bolts on the threaded part of the cable sheath. it does leak a little bit of boost up the inside of the cable sheath, but nothing noticable, i've got a bit of the clearish boost guage line inside the sheath and the the cable runs through that just to try and minimise the gap there.

whenever I register it!!! :( a square box would actually be easier to use, ie, getting fuel lines and espeacially a throttle cable to it. mine sorta pulls around a corner. you would probably need to get something custom made however, unless you can find something suitable in a wreckers etc. I just wanted something that would be cheap and relatively easy with an "air tight seal", but ended up having a few dramas makeing this seal "boost tight"!!! :)

so are you trying to say mine looks shit!!?? :) its just a hilux air filter box that i cut and shut to do the job.

by putting the carby inside a closed box like I have, it has the same pressure on the outside of the carby as what it does on the inside. this way boost will not leak out of the gaskets etc. you certainly can just put a box on top of the carby, but it would need boost modifying.

yeah that was too easy, want some more jap old skooler pics??

ah....ahhh....AAAHHHH.....turbo it!!!! :)

since st. nick hasn't put one up yet...... oh, and btw, if you can't tell its not a mazda!!! hehe

one of the most successful japanese race cars ever.........also leaf sprung!!!

nah mines all good now dan, think the most unreliable thing in my car is the battery!!! :) because I did everything by trial and error in the first place, there was a few "issues" to overcome in the development process, but now its as reliable as a 4k normally is!!! the only thing I do on week ends now is the addition of my bits and pieces, like yesterday after the rolla meet I was motivated enough to go home and start my new fuel system with an EFI pump and rising rate reg. :lolcry: so you're picking up your new rolla today??

heres some updated pics of my engine bay from the week ends corolla meet.

:lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :) your go.

when you go to get another manifold gasket josh, instead of getting the usual ACL ones that are 2 piece (RRP $13) go to BURSONS and ask for a permaseal gasket for a k series. they are actuall the ones listed as a extractor gasket in the LUKEY parts catalog. It took me ages to find these 1 part gaskets and you'll see when you get it how much better they are than the standard ACL ones. plus I bought 2 of them for $16!!!!!! :) :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry:

ok, i'll let the fiat go.... its propper name is a 128 3P, the other 128's being sedan, 2 door sedans, and 128 sport L, which has the front end of a 3P but a more coupe back end....... the last of the clues on the mazda is that it is the first and only FRONT WHEEL DRIVE ROTARY that mazda ever made. a quick google search will get you an answer with that info. :) does very much have a 1500/1800 looking front end though, you got that much right james.

schweeet. :) thats all I wanted, some with the new piping and cooler. :lolcry: thanks josh. :lolcry:

I currently have a auto ke30 starter motor on my ke55e. they are somewhat different however but still fit. the original one had the solinoid sitting out on a 45o angle from the top and the auto one pretty much sits straight up. but yeah still fit!! :)

back end of the fiat. btw, its a mazda ROTARY!!!!