Taz_Rx

How many cars do you have? Lol.... Not that I can really talk. Hey you want a w50 for this? Looks like my k-w bell etc is sold so I'm going to have a box that's no used to me.

That sounds about right if the head has had a bit of a skim. 0.6mm seems a little thin for the gasket though.

...what's that, you're coming past Norwood? Lol

Bet you wish that nudge bar was a but wider!

Just took one of mine the other day. Pm me your number and I'll text you it.

No worries mate. When you taking it for a drive now? I'm keen to help tune if you need. ;)

Been doing some more reading on this. I have a much newer installation manual (v4.57) saved on my hard drive....... It states that pin 6 can be used for a sync and reference as "trigger 2", ie you can run the 360 slot trigger in through this. My original hard copy manual states pin 6 as the coil negative connection. Elsewhere in the newer manual it says to check this with the manufacturer (I'm guessing with a serial number) as to weather the ECU can accept this as "trigger 2". As mine was a very early version of the V4 I'm guessing mine would be setup for coil negative not "trigger 2". However, been a little bored at work tonight and be doing some reading. Found what might be a good reason why not to try and connect the 360 slot part of the sensor..... http://forums.hybrid...m-ems-released/ Sort of interesting reading. Considering I can get my sequential injection and multicoil spark from a 4+1 trigger I think I'll not both looking into the 360 sync any further.

Yeah you can use a townace bell housing with a w55 or a liteace (km20/km36) bell housing with a w50. You'll as also need the flywheel to suit each.

Not the v4 I have. The v4plus, v500, 550 etc can as a 'reference sync'. Actually found the last piece of my puzzle today....on my own hard drive of all places in a wolf help file with a load of pin outs of various cars. The pin outs for an s13 and s15 share the same pin numbers as the above ka24e list (22 and 31, 30 and 40) except the wolf files actually say trigger 4 pulse and trigger 360 pulse. Just need to get back to Hobart now where the car is to do a temporary experimental wire up and thinking I'll just spin the cas in a cordless drill to check it all works properly.

Because the wolf (and probably any other ecu) couldn't comprehend that many trigger points. Trigger points and load points for tuning are 2 completely different things.

What time do you finish work tomorrow mate? Might have to pop up for a looksie!

I don't know about haltech's but with the wolf you can adjust the sensitivity of the input signal. As well as setting it very low/low/med/high you can use the 'auto level adjust' feature, which I have done. As I had a fair bit of trouble getting a steady pulse when I first got the setup running I had to set it to very low, but that caused high rpm triggering issues. Si with that feature turned on its at very low for start, switches to low at about 900 rpm, med at about 2500 rpm and high at about 4k rpm. The 2 trigger inputs are for the 4 points (soon to be 4+1), and then the 360 slots on the outsides of the discs pictured above. I'll only need to use the 4+1.

So i've made a little progress with this now. went to a wreckers to look for the above list of cars, found both an n14 with sr20de and a navara with a ka24e with the rsb07 cas. drew up these.... after some searching i found some wiring and pinouts for the ka24e and the colours match up..... the only thing i'm yet to work now is what's what with pin 22 and 31 as for 4+1 and 360°. noticed these pins seems somewhat similar in nissans so hoping you might know this owanf?

The number is the heat range, so both have the same.

Ohh and I'll just make up a plug with spade terminals to the bottom of the cas that connects into the wolf ignition input loom.

No, that mainly my problem. The wheel itself is basically irrelevant, the actual pickup (the rsb-07 part)... http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/121186668885?nav=SEARCH ...is what all those vehicles have in common. Hence the pin out of that should be the same. For example Vg30's use that sensor with a 6 slot wheel.

Dude that is your CAS! (well I thought it was)..... I found that pic in a google image search and when you go 'visit site' it went to your project thread on another forum. I'll just drill my plate exactly the same. I've just spend the last 3 odd hours trying to find some info on pinouts. Think I'll just go to a wrecking yard in the morning and look for one of the vehicles on the above list. I can find wiring diagrams.... but just can find one that shows whats what between the bottom of the CAS and and the plug that connects it to the main harness. ie..... This was also a handy pic I found....

You going to cut a hole in your bonnet for a scoop now Leigh? I'm back in Launy for at least a week on Sunday so if you need a hand with anything just sing out. ;)

Does anybody happen to have easy access to one of the vehicle listed here......

Ok, so I've been doing some research on this CAS tonight. Going from the part number on the side of it its from a 91-95 Stanza. I've searched for wiring diagrams for Stanzas but haven't found anything that really helps with the pinouts. OWANF - I'm guessing that what you said above might be off a plug that is connected into the base of the CAS like pictured here?..... http://www.ebay.com/...m-/181173622609 All I have to work with is this..... After pulling the actual sensor out of the housing I've discovered it is an RSB-07, which is very similar to this RSB-06.... http://www.carpartsd...html?3593=89028 Listed under the vehicles it suits it says 200sx so I'm hoping it is the same as your SR20 one? If so are you able to tell me the pinouts again relative to the plug in the bottom of the CAS rather than the plug I assume is connected to yours? Actually..... is yours more like this?.... I'm also anticipating my next problem. So rather than having a dual pulse on #1 like I thought I did the is a "block", and slots for 2/3/4. After having another look at the Wolf installation guide I'm thinking the wolf might not recognise the difference between 1 and the others. As far as its concerned it might just look like a single pulse wheel!? :hmm: This is my wheel.... You said you had to cut a second slot into yours? Did it look like mine? As after doing a google image search for "SR20 CAS" I've found other ones that have progressively opening gaps like this..... Hmm..... I really need to stop searching/typing/searching/typing...... just found this lol..... So its really just as simple as that!?

Thanks owanf, I'll have a tinker tomorrow night hopefully. Been working in Hobart a fair bit lately Jono, drive it to work most of the time.

Not yet mate. As per previous page I reckon I might hold off on the bigger injectors and retune until I do something about installing the CAS and some multi coil packs. Pretty keen on looking into these LS coil packs. Might take the CAS back to Hobart with me tomorrow and see if I can't get some love out of it with dad's multimeter. I've had a brief look for a bluebird wiring diagram but not found anything incredibly useful. Thinking about it, there's 2 sets of slots in the trigger wheel - Double on 1 and singles on 2/3/4, and then another ring of maybe 180 odd. Thinking maybe theres a set of terminals for each ring of slots. :hmm: Speaking of injectors.... Are you interested in my 315cc ones when I remove them? Have you seen me getting round in Hobart lately in it? Don't really know of any for sale in the state at the moment. Back when I got my first (would of been maybe '99) there was like 3 or 4 in the paper every weekend. Lucky to find a ksev once every few months these days, I do sort of need to get rid of my old bitch one day. My sister isn't thrilled about it sitting down at her place these days. Plus I should also reluctantly get rid of my '38.... That is pretty well full of rust though.

Tried getting someone to hold the key on start while you whack the start motor with something?

Why? Whenever you're wanting to brake you're going to be off the throttle hence there will be vacuum in the manifold. the one way valve in the booster line will also hold vacuum for quite a while.

Sorry.... So find a 4agze, minus the charger...and then buy afore mentioned charger! Better? Lol