demuire

You can shift without the clutch. It's just harder, and depends on which teeth are aligned with what at the time.

I figured as much. Just trying to think of what it could have been. Sometimes my clutch pedal goes slightly out of alignment with the master cylinder and binds slightly and makes a big "clonk" sound, but it will still work anyway and my gears etc still change. Actually Teddy, that's sort of happened to me once before on the way down to Byron Bay in Pinky (with Haikal and a whole bunch of PF people). What happened was the circlip on the clutch cable decided to take a walk. The sudden snap in the cable made a big "bang" sound and well, after that I had no clutch. I'd be guessing that's what's happened to yours.

"bang"? If you were "just moving your car up the driveway" I doubt if you've broken your gearbox or your diff, unless you were planning on doing a burnout up your driveway or something...

35kg??? I know I've put on weight and everything but seriously!!! :thumbsup: Answer to question? "car time"

I recon Mr Redwarf will have the goods this time... Racing Whippet's luck can only go so far!

Mine seem to work pretty well cold. They do get better as they heat up, but they work well enough cold.

I personally like Race Brakes RB74. They can make them to suit any car too, you just need to supply a set of the original pads.

Steering wheel: Steering puller is your best bet, normal puller also works but a bit more hassle. You can also try to pry it off with a breaker bar or big screw driver, but more difficult and lower success rate. Just out of interest - why the monster tacho? Since the Camry already has a stock tacho option. Just for the sake of having a monster tacho?

As always, looking good Teddy. Looks better than mine even (but that's not awfully hard :thumbsup:)

happy birthday...

He's on Toymods. Nice guy too.

I want quad throttles on Hal. Mmm... quad throttles... :thumbsup:

I still think the ultimate build diary would have to be Kimini 2.2

Oh wow, that's some fairly crazy stuff :thumbsup: I like build diaries. Build diaries are fun :)

Oh yeah, I've also had a 1985 (or was it 86?) Mitsubishi Colt sedan (first car) and a Toyota Corona XT130 wagon (can't remember what year)

A "shoulder"? I do know about the flexing, hence must weld bolt to the plate to make it stay solid. I'd prefer to get shackles from another car (as in factory shackles), but if I can't find anything I might make something up. Will have to decide fairly soon though, before the car comes back from Nambour, cause it's pretty much going straight to Pedders after that to get the rear suspension sorted out. It's far too low at the moment, I've got less than 15mm of bump...

Jamie: You had a KE10? When?

Yes I suppose I could make my own... Need to get some steel and some high tensile bolts and get the bolts welded in so that they don't move. Haven't been on oldcorollas for a bit, might have a squiz tonight maybe.

Ah, much much better :thumbsup: And yes I agree, the wedding one looks better. The bottom one is too small, and a little overexposed. Is that number plate photoshopped on? It almost looks like it, although it could just be the big reflection from a flash or something...

crash: Look, if YOU want a photo of YOUR car in the calendar, then YOU pick out a photo, or at least a shortlist of maybe 3 or 4 photos that YOU like, and then WE can pick one that will work well with the calendar. You can't just give us a list of like a billion photos and expect us to go through each and every one of them for you... If you had them in a proper album, maybe it'll be a bit easier. But you don't. This is not a service. If you can't be bothered to look for a photo of your own car, then don't expect us to do it for you.

I would make an assumption that Pedders in Tassie would also be able to help you out. They basically bend the struts to correct the camber problem.

I have looked into MANY options both front and rear, and if you want simplicity and you are on a budget, then go with this: Front brakes: To go with Corona brakes, you will need: Corona XT130 or RT132 struts, complete with discs and calipers. Corona XT130, RT132 or AE86 (and maybe some others) steering knuckles AE86 springs, preferably lowered (KTFL33 from King Springs) AE86 top spring hat KE30 or KE55 strut top If it is easier (it was for me) you can also use the Corona control arms. That way you don't need to disassemble the steering knuckle from the control arm which can sometimes be a pain if you don't have the right tools. A combination of all of those things will bolt straight into your car. You will get some positive camber on the front, this can be fixed by Pedders. You can get longer control arms and/or adjustable strut tops, but that becomes complicated and expensive. If you are in Brisbane call Brian at Pedders Geebung (after you have put it all in your car), tell him you need to have your camber corrected, and he will fix you up. If he doesn't know what you're talking about, tell him you need the him to set up your car like Fook's red Corolla. Rear brakes: KE55 diff will bolt into your KE30, along with the bigger drums. In fact, I have one for sale if you are interested. You will need a KE55 tailshaft. I might have a spare one of these. Anything else becomes complicated and expensive.

Hmm, by "old school" I meant KE10, TE27 etc. AE86's are still being offloaded from Japan in fairly high numbers, be it in complete cars or in parts

Problem is it looks like the Japanese really want their old school cars back, that's why they're offloading all their "boring" cars to us :thumbsup:

There're dozens of options. Two that come to mind are Corona front struts and brakes, and KE55 drums.