ATOYOTA

Reedy knows. I think he said it's right down the bottom, at the back, by the flywheel or summing. Hey Reed... REED! PHONE!

I'd be keener than quiche anyway.

August??? That's a funny way of spelling July.

Old skewl is too thirsty for what it is. 2T-G's use as much fuel as, like, a 6 cylinder engine. Might as well split the difference and go for straight 5. I like Volvo's B5254T found in the Focus XR5's. I know it'd be a royal pain in the arse to convert from FWD to RWD, but it's probably the best 5 cylinder petrol engine available. They sound like a lumberjack fvcking a chain smoking wookie with a rasp, and the power stats I've found on them are more than impressive. Plus, being a Volvo it's reliable (citation needed) and the electrics can't possibly be anywhere near as nightmarish as that of a Ford.

I'm gonna eat the weight of my car in pancakes.

Yeah we did kinda stray juuust a little bit off topic haha. I'm not saying it's a super drift star thing; it's just something else some people might find works for them. The coilovers are expected within the next fortnight or so :D

The professional competition drifters do. Angle, speed, line, and show. From Wiki: "Drifting competitions are judged based on line, angle, speed and show factor. Line involves taking the correct line, which is usually announced beforehand by judges. The show factor is based on multiple things, such as the amount of smoke, how close the car is to the wall or designated clipping point, and the crowd's reaction.[4] Angle is the angle of a car and more importantly the turned wheels in a drift, speed is the speed entering a turn, the speed through a turn, and the speed exiting the turn; faster is better." There's also mention in the tyre section: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drifting_%28motorsport%29#Tires

Fvck yeah this shit just got tighter than a nun's clacker! PAAAANNNN......MMKAAAAAAAAAKES!!!

I asked a couple of guys at tyre shops. One guy said that he used to do up drift cars and they have a couple of uses: A. There's practically no flex in the sidewalls so they break traction around corners easier, B. They shred up tyres quicker so you score more points, C. Lessens the chance of a tyre popping off the rim (very rare instance anyway) due to the immense pressure on the beads. But nowadays people just go for that ridiculous stretch & poke, not knowing their origins. Like hangrings.

Nah, stretchies have their place, but that place isn't beneath my wheel arches. It's a drifter thing and I'm not really into that.

You're also only allowed to change the width of the wheel by +/- 1 inch. Soo many KE's rolling around with 8" rims.. My soon to be fitted wheels are 16X7 +15. I'm getting 195/45 for them. Everyone keeps telling me they won't scrub, but we'll have to wait and see. If when it comes to fitting these rims they don't scrub, lock to lock, on the bump stops, then I'll get XT130/KE30 LCA's. This car is likely going to double as a track/street car and I don't want to find my tyres rubbing against the arches through a sharp turn. Increasing the track on the front would make the car handle funny anyway. I'd be getting a wider, stronger diff to match the front if I was serious about it.

I thought about the XT130/KE30 LCA way because I thought KE70 ones weren't compatible with AE86 struts. My rims I've got sitting under my bed look like they might juuust fit, but if I add the extra track on the front they most definitely won't and I'm not keen on pumping the guards myself. '30/XT130 LCA's also have less lock I'm lead to believe. Once these coilovers come in I'll need to: Make up a template and drill the rotors on the press Get them machined Go to Burson's and get a couple of wheel bearings Get some brake pads Go to my dad's mate's hose shop and get him to do the braided brake lines Fit the whole suspension Take it in for a wheel alignment The AE86 strut assembly I got was missing a few bits & bobs so that's why I need things like bearings/brake pads. I'm pretty broke right now, thanks to my recently purchased coilovers so it'll have to wait until payday next month before I do any more work to it. I'll keep updating as more shit gets done. Fingers crossed it'll be by the end of next month or thereabouts.

I don't have any strict plans, but one thing's sure: it's gonna stay street legal. Hoping maybe for a bit of track work here and there, mainly focussed on grip, but drifting has crossed my mind... First things first is suspension. That way when the big day comes for an engine conversion, I'll have the rest of the setup there just waiting for it. I ordered these last night: http://www.bc-racing.co.uk/coilovers-series-br/ It's a shame I don't have a camera, as my mum has pinched it :(.

AW GAWD..... ....I JUST CAME!

Ok, I've got a clearer idea of what's happening with the suspension. The other day, I picked up most of the front strut assembly off an AE86 (missing a shock, wheel bearing and LCA) and I have plans for the steering arms and brakes. The rest I'll chuck up for sale on here once I've had my dirty way with them. I'm sure someone with a sleeve kit will make use of it. The steering arms are gonna go onto BC-BR coilovers that I'm soon to buy off Epay. As for the brakes, they need to be machined, replaced and have new bearings put in. I'm also going to drill them so I don't have to fork out another $300 for drilled ones. I'll see how the Ksev master cylinder goes and if it clamps 'em nice and firm I don't see any reason to swap it in a hurry. My Gregory's manual explains how to do a wheel alignment; should I attempt it or take my car to a tyre shop and get them to do it?

Mine'll have these... and will be lowered with coilovers.

Haha, RC catering... Damn, never saw the '86! What was it like? They look kinda bigger than an AE86 from the photos. WOO! I got a quater of my car into the pic.

Amber still owes me a slap...

I'll be bringing a BBQ and a small esky.

I'm picking up some snags today, any requests?

So I'm curious about a front coilover conversion for my KE70. My researches have shown a few options, but I think I'll go with the 'well duhh' and get AE86 struts. This means I'll need AE86 steering arms too (rack & pinion, FTW) I believe. Will I also need '86/XT130 LCA's? I've read up about both and I don't really want to do XT130's because they bring the track out too much, lessen lock and make the close fitment with my chosen rims just that bit too close. AE86 LCA's I'm lead to believe are the same length. I'm getting adjustable camber tops with either setup so the alleged 'mega-camber' produced from longer LCA's isn't an issue. The rears seem like they will be pretty straight forward; just short stroke shocks (KYB or Bilstein, which is more worth it?) and shorter, stiffer springs. I'm not gonna go coilovers in the rear as it would mean the wheels would definitely scrub on the spring/seat. Also, what spring rates are recommended? 8KG front/6KG rear is the talk around town. Has anyone ever fitted AJPS coilovers? Being what it is, it'll probably be pretty good, but for the same price of the front I can get BC Racing BR-series front & rear. I've heard the BC's are top stuff, but what would YOU recommended? Here are the links for both: AJPS (Type 2) - http://ajps.com.au/p...s_coilovers.php BC - http://www.ebay.com....=item2ebf1b8131 I also have plans of doing a brake upgrade that I need help with. Again, I've done a bit of researching and it's brought the following... It'll be either AE86 or RX7 depending on what's available. I'll need a bigger master cylinder, and somewhere I read that an 80 series Land Cruiser one might bolt straight in. Braided lines sound sexy, and they're stronger than rubber or something. What else am I missing? Will the stock brake booster need to go too? The brakes themselves will most likely just be standard '86 ones, so they'll fit on the coilovers. Stiffer sway bars are in order too, while I'm at it. I think I saw some as big as 24mm somewhere once. My aim is very snappy and responsive, but is this too much? 18mm/19mm sway bars are easier to find anyway. AE86 compatible ones bolt straight in, do they not? Just for shits and giggles, strut tower braces (front & rear) will be added to the shopping list. What other braces can be fitted that help stiffen up the chassis a bit? I don't think I'm ready for a half cage yet, as it still needs to be (reasonably) comfortable for passengers I occasionally ferry around in the back. Bucket seats and a grippier, smaller diameter steering wheel are a must. I was thinking of something along the lines of Bride Gias seats but the 'jesus christ!' price tag for a genuine set is just out of my budget. I want something that's stiff on the thighs with plenty of lumbar support, and it must recline. I know I'll need different rails, too. I read that AE86 rails almost bolt straight in except for one hole that can either be reemed out or have the rail stretch to fit. Neither of these are things I'm too keen on doing as they sound unsafe and silly. Can '86 rails be modded relatively simply to fit properly and pass engineer's cert.? How can I go about harnesses? I'm thinking 3 point so it won't take three lifetimes to get in/out of, but also keeping the standard seat belts as secondary. Do they have to be fixed to a cage or can they somehow be fitted to the seat itself, or the floor? As mentioned I want it to still be a 4/5 seater, so having a cage and a harness attached to it preeeetty much voids that idea. Surely there's got to be some seats around that have bolt holes for a harness? I've sussed out the steering wheel, sort of. I like the 330mm Nardi deep corn leather steering wheel but the brand of boss kit I'm unsure of. What's a good strong one that doesn't look like an elephant's foreskin? Quick release is a preference to deter thieves. For now, I just want a medium performance increase as I haven't even started thinking about the down-the-track engine conversion I wanna do. Basically I want to get the running gear/suspension all sussed first and foremost before any serious engine performance is considered so my car can actually handle a substantial increase in power. It's my daily drive, and I'd like to keep it that way so everything has to be street legal and I don't want to cut any corners. I have access to minor fabrication work (my dad), but I want to keep that to a minimum. I'm pretty much looking for straight bolt-in upgrades, maybe with the odd 'persuasion' here and there. This is going to be quite a lengthy project, as funds/time/availability of parts will weigh me down a lot. Leave your insights; I'm eager to hear them. Also if there's anything I've left out that you think are necessary, feel free to add them in. Ballpark figures would be appreciated just to give me a vaguely rough idea of what to expect to pay, but if you don't know it doesn't matter. Thanks in advance, and sorry for the big arse post. It's only sure to get bigger as I add to the list...

Ah, there ya go. I hope those bulldogs are only stuck on.

I'm pretty sure this car they've f*cked in this Boost Bar ad is a TA22 Celica or similar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx9MqzJzqVY&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL706CC9D2104349BE It's at 0:13. Still, it's a phat as hell car even without the wank.

I paid 4 grand for my stock KE70 with a list of issues and without rego/roady, but because there wasn't so much as a flake of rust and the guy had done such a stellar job on the paint I was happy to pay the price.

'Weight'? I prefer the term 'power offset'.