towe001

surfer bikini babes

Not having a go at you Lex so don't take it the wrong way. You are a young driver and still learning. But drive to the conditions, like with the fog its dangerous and reckless to drive at 100 when you can't see a safe distance ahead of you. A safe distance would be some like the cars braking distance plus your reaction time plus a few extra seconds for safety. Mr Dwarf would know this a lot better but you'd be talking at least 100 meters at 100kph. Something else to ponder about is that most cars out run their high beam lights at that speed. High beam reaches only about 80-90 meters on most cars. But like i said Lex, not having a go at you, cause i don't want you hitting the statistics

ditto but even then with family members, eg one's outside of my household type of family member's That would have to be one of my pet hates of car parks. People that race through car parks, don't stop at the crossings etc etc. Adults, kids and cars in close quarters just doesn't mix. No-one knows what the other idiot is going to do and more so the helpless parent with the barely controlled little Johnny and barely controlled trolley.

Yes, grab the x-member and weld both of them together. Have a bit of a search on the forum there was a bit of talk on the subject a little while back

You can but you would have to weld the auto x-member to it. The x-members sit in different spots. The manual version sits a couple of inches further to the front of the car then the auto version. If the car was the ke30 it'd just be a case of bolting the x-member to the box and the car, but the ke55 only has the mounts for what type of box was used in the car. So in your case being auto you wouldn't have the mounts for the manual box. Sucks being a '55

Being a '55 you'll also have mod the gearbox x-member, cause the auto version doesn't have the mounts for it

I think the diesel would the go. Plug in LPG and get a rebate from the government Bit of a shame you can only go up to a maximum 2.4Lt turbo but you could see if you can push it with the 2KD-FTV (2.5Lt turbo), 325Nm between 1600-3600rpm of 16valve intercooled turbo power

Nice in a bad way. Which more or less goes with what i said in my post #19 Which is also why drag racers have to have a shield over the bellhousing - you wouldn't even realize that your foot is missing till you look at it and wonder why all the blood

You and me both They say that the pen is mightier then the sword all this maths is coming along quite nicely as a dominate war monger

Mmmmm legal boost and it comes in a bigger bottle

Yep good old motivation. I spend most of the week thinking of things i'd like to do around the house and on my car and have it all shot to bits cause i wind up having to do a weeks worth of house work over the weekend cause someone cbf with doing it herself and that she'd rather spend the week (including the weekend) tripping all over the f@$king country side. Its rubbish like i have to find the weeks worth of dirty washing spend the day washing and hanging it out but before i can hang it out i've got to pull the washing off the line thats been there from last weekend..... Motivation and people wonder why i have none...

Rollaclub with ToyMods rejects :hmm: :rolla:

5vz-fe or 2gr-fe

Garden hose would be lucky to remove a quarter of the crap in the coolant passages. I'd also be doing a compression test on the motor to see if its blow the head gasket. And check the timing as well Whats the radiator like ? Could even have a stuffed hose or two. In the earlier model cars, like yours, you'll be able to use the heater in the cabin (with the fan up high) as a secondary radiator. But all in all if its not a blow head gasket nor the timing i'd be chasing up a radiator shop for some help. It could even be as simple as needing a new cap for the radiator - water and coolant boil at a higher temp when under pressure.

Slops

And thats why i added the "but" And for a another but is that the commodore delco is crank angle ignition and it can be used on a 4 cylinder motor. BUT the programming needs to be re-flashed. Just an option. Maybe i should have said that i have a rough idea on the size of the dizzy and a rough idea on the space between the back of the motor and the firewall... I don't care much in the way of it but it was just an option... Last time i looked, which was a few years back the g13b right angle adaptor was around the $150 (I think) mark Maybe it should be thrown into the too hard/why bother basket I was just throwing in some extra thoughts/options thats all for the guy to think about and search up on as to if its worth while or not

I wouldn't really throw it in the too hard basket, there's ways around the problem. The 20v 4age has the dizzy at the back of the motor and yet its used in rwd cars. The firewall can either be modded with a hammer or properly with a grinder and welder Or for a little gain in hp and less time rooting around with the dizzy is to upgrade to crank angle ignition. But you'll also have to upgrade the ecu cause the stock one wouldn't be able to read the new spark readings And another thought is that the suzuki swift g13b twin cam has the dizzy at the back of the motor and a right angle adaptor can be bought for when the motor is used in a rwd car such as the serria. But i don't really know how much of a chance there would be of getting one for the 4af

the only stuff i really understand of lightening a flywheel is that A> don't do it around the centre cause the bolts need the meat to hold it to the crank etc. B> don't do too much around/behind where the clutch surface is cause its needed for heat removal, less chance of warpage, less prone to cracking etc and C> make sure its balanced

My head started hurting after 2+2=What ?!?

^^ couldn't agree more with what irokin said. Should have researched first before laying out the money and time, because the whole project hinges upon the engineer giving the project the green light or not And if they say no....... Nothing worse then a shattered out of pocket dream. Upon saying that 3sg turbo's have gone into the '82 engine bays along with mazda v6's into lasers so you might have hope. But research in what you have to do. Ask the engineer what needs to be done, google for the spec's on the car the motor came from for things like brakes suspension driveline etc to get an idea on what you have to do. Join a forum, http://www.honda-tech.com/index.php, or two and start a thread there on what your planning. Sure you'll more then likely get a good flaming for it, but some will see the light in your left of field dream and offer some help. Go for it dude go for it but it does hinge on the engineer

candy flavoured

Cold tit is

There was a crash up this way a few days back. The driver lost control while going down hill and ran off the road and wrapped the car around a tree, when the emergency crews got there to find the car up in flames and the driver no where to be found. The dogs were brought out to find the the drunk hiding in bushes. Should have stayed in the car to get toasted as well, wanker. Sorry but i feel no compassion these people - They know their drunk, they know they have difficulty in doing what ever but they turn around and jump into a car knowing full well they could quite possibly cause an accident and wind up killing someone in the process. And most times its the drunk who walks, or runs, away and when caught only gets a slap on the wrist. RBT's should be given a new ruling, or what ever, if the drivers double the legal limit they'll get pulled from the vehicle and SHOT russian roulette style. No thrown in the back of the paddy wagon and given a court date to be told what a badddd driver you was. Cause that drunk is doing nothing more then playing the game with other people on the streets. Been wanting to get the ball joints off the control arms so that i can clean the arms better etc etc. So i've been hitting google, ebay, oztion, etc for a "ball joint press". I've found a few and so far the only aussie one i've found is $199 not including postage where as over in the States US$37.99 BUT don't do freight O/S. Yes, ive thought of doing it the Redrawf way and belt the joint out at the gutter but i want to be able to put the new ones back in without having to ask a shop to do it

Just a touch harder then that... From memory 2.6 non-turbo litres is the biggest you can go in the '82 2mz-fe or the 1vz-fe, 2vz-fe or 4vz-fe from the engineering/mod plate point of view would be a better idea. 3vz-fe is just too big in more ways then one - power bulge on the bonnet and the firewall would have to moved further back Not really cause the Honda gearbox will be sitting at the correct end of the motor. Which leads into the next thing of that i reckon Honda got it right with the motor spinning backwards. A clockwise running motor when revved will want to tilt to the back of the car An anti-clockwise running motor when revved will want to tilt to the front of the car. Either a b16a, b17a, b18a or the vtec's d16a, d17a would be a lot easier to pull off from an engineering/mod plate point of view.

Bostik also has a mat. We sell two different sizes at work, a 1 foot by 4 foot sheet that comes in a box of 6 and the larger size of approx 6 foot by 8 foot. The auto panel shops buy the stuff from time to time but don't ask me on the pricing. K and H has a liquid form thats ok.