towe001

Which might just be pushing it a bit even with the 2rz if it was turbo'd

Apart from the fact there's no-one behind the wheel, the car isn't actually driving backwards the body was just swapped around But, yes, the Datsun 240z more so the Devil Z

Porsche 356 Roadster ;)

Cut03 - yeah have a look at the engine mounts. kustombruce - How about the clutch surface on the flywheel ? Could be glazed

And don't forget anything thats a power sapper, like air con, power steering, water pump. Or just change the sizing of the pulleys. And join http://www.club4ag.com/

XXXX Yea for Queensland

;) ;) :?

skid marks

Is that the one with about 8.35mm lift ? You might also have to swap the shim and buckets for a shim under bucket style. So there's also a bit more of a cost. But if you can get them the buckets from the 1sv-fe (1litre yaris/vitz) are compatible. And also grab a pair of adjustable cam gears. And not forgetting having the upgrade the stock injectors But why not just have the big port cams re-ground for a bit extra duration on the lift. Or use the adjustable cam gears to dial in the big port cams - for more bottom end power retard the exhaust 4° and advance the intake 3°. For more top end, advance intake 4° and exhaust 3° from stock settings.

:bash:

Nice setup. Questions - has the carby been setup for a blow through turbo ? Why's the spot for the pc valve blocked off ? Wouldn't the crankcase be building up a bit of pressure without ?

In some ways i'd sooner be in the xr6 if comes to having a crash. And to all the blah blah, the xr6 is designed so that it absorbs the impact before the human body does. Another way to put it - v8's are just plain scary :bash: But officer, its factory.... and focus on the boobs. When the phuck is this "Rugs a million" going to finely close down..... ?

robotic domination

Couldn't agree more. My younger brother has the iPhone and i think it should have been called the iTurd, its nice but..... my girlfriends n95 does the same things just a little better. And on the subject of her 10 month old n95 - replaced twice, repaired twice, updated the software once (it had the software from older version or something) and she still has the odd problem with it. While my e51 is so far so good for the 9 months of ownership except for things like the star and hash keys their ends tend to pop out from time to time and the zero key has to be pushed a little harder then the other keys and it doesn't have the tactile "click" like the other keys. The standard calculator is a pain in the arse to use and the aftermarket one i have and use takes almost a coffee break to open up.

Says it all. Ericsson was a good phone till it was tacked to the arse end of Sony

Would be interesting, but whats your idea of "cheap" ? Cause someone else's idea of cheap could very well be something that comes under a grand. Like, for example - someone's idea of ditching the whole airbox and piping for a pod filter stuck to the manifold is cheap. For me thats utter rubbish and not worth the 25 bucks. I'd sooner spend 100-150 for a K and N panel filter, mod the airbox a little and maybe re-do the airboxes intake from inside the guard for better air intake.

Yeah, the 4a-f that i had was a bit of an eye opener i guess cause there was a few other differences as well, like, it was fwd use only. It had the bosses there for the rwd mounts but they weren't tapped. Never knew that with the silver top. I was always under the impression that it was just the 20v motors in general being interference

Just something else i realised is that the 4a-f that i used one time in my old '82 was that bosses for where the rwd mounts go didn't have them tapped out for the bolts....

On the 4age there's a bracket that mounts between the intake manifold and down around the bottom of the block. Intake stay or something. The 4a-f versions have the boss but it hasn't been tapped and from memory the 4a-c doesn't have it at all. Pistons are different for the 20v. And you'd have to watch the valve to piston space cause the 20v is a interference design unlike the 16v. But apart from that its been used for turbo builds. From what i've read on club4ag is that the big port is the way to go with a turbo build.

I'm no turbo guru or whatever but it'd depend on what colour the smoke is as if its over fueling or the turbo is pulling oil from the cylinders. But i'm guessing oil.

.... the corner to see...

Wouldn't be able to use the whole member, but might be able to use the mounts from the early "R" series celica (RA22/3 ??) But you will have to watch the gap between the motor and radiator, cause the motor will have to sit a bit further forwards past the track line between the front wheels. Which in turn will increase the weight over the front wheels. Wouldn't think so but under braking, turning etc the car will understeer easier. I realise in what you've said but its just something else to think about, suspension wise not just brakes

2.5 inches ?? I'd say thats a bit big for a 1.6 litre. 2inch would have been a better idea. No, its not to do with back pressure. Basically if you want more power you have to make the motor breath better like what everybody else has said - intake, cams, exhaust. If your willing to crack the motor apart, bore it out to about 1.7 litre And i'd go the same route as the witzl - do the suspension. 0deg front toe, about 1deg toe out on the rear etc etc

Mushroom

I'm just over all the accidents that happen to P-platers regardless if they cause it or a third party. My girlfriends on her reds.... so... urm.... yeah My supervisor was like that today, he's a mexican. Reckoned the whole thing was nothing but a crock of crap. Wound up taking off home not long after lunch, think he had the sulks cause everybody more or less told him to piss-off with his bitching