towe001

:hmm: no no not twin carbies, twin cam as in two cams not one cam as used in the 4a-c and the bigger brakes isn't all that hard - AE82 twincam version used bigger front brakes and also used disc brakes on the back as well have a bit of a search on the forum. ToyMods - http://www.toymods.net/forums/ has a write of it, it is for the later ae92 but still usable on the ae82.

Sorry dude but to me they all look american, i don't really think any of them would suit the shape of the car all that well. To me the caps give me the feeling of a car thats a square blocky type of shape where as the '55 has more of a smooth, roundish type of shape. The styling of each clashes. But thats just me I'd be more inclined to stay with the dress rings. But thats just me...

Yep i'm the same with that, pisses me off to no end if someone can't keep their word to something we've agreed on. So yeah, the extra money would have been nice, but i keep my word and if i can't i let the other party know. My damn supervisor - swear it must take a lot of intelligence to be an f'ing idiot. Like today the forklift had to be re-fueled so a workmate grabbed the fuel drum, unscrewed the cap on the forklift and placed it on the seat turned his back to grab the funnel turned back and ol' numb nuts jumped on the forklift to drive off - didn't even see the cap missing from the tank and didn't even realize it was under his arse.

FWD ?!? :hmm: and here i thought the ae82 was a four wheel drive all terrain terror tot. But getting back to it the cheapest and easiest engine conversion would be the 4a-fc (twin cam carby motor)- couple of extra inches on the exhaust pipe after the manifold cause of the x-flow head design and your pretty well set to go. With a few extra killer ponies. Next up would be either the 4a-fe (twin cam EFI) or 4a-ge series (twin cam but with a different head design EFI) and both of these would need the extra length in the exhaust as well and the computer to go with them. In both cases of using a 4a motor is that you can still use the standard gearbox and driveshafts - but it might start getting a little iffy behind the more powerful 4a-gze and 20valve motors. Legalities - 4a-f motors i don't think you'll need a mod plate but the 4a-g series i believe you would need one cause of having a big jump in power. Next step up (or some people would say across, cause a turbo 4a-ge can make the same if not more then the non-turbo 3s-ge) is the 3s-ge and 3s-gte (2litre twin cam EFI and turbo version) lot of work with hammer, angle grinder and welder. Will have to be mod plated. Cause of engine and gearbox mounts, having to use custom made driveshafts and suspension (maybe) and brake upgrades. Or something from the Nissan stable - don't know much about it but more then likely hammer, grinder and welder work so it'll be mod plated too cause of same reasons as above.. From what i know with the legal stuff is that if you make a good step up in power it'll have to be mod plated and the same with bringing a hammer, grinder and welder into the equation will mean a mod plate will have to be forth coming. When i had my old '82 seca i was thinking of a v6 from a camry. Had the feeling that it'd just fit but never really got a chance to measure up a motor and gearbox for a fit to the '82's bay. But once again - mod plated cause of said tools and customizing. My best thought would be write down what your planning on doing and go find an RTA approved engineer and have a chat to find out whats good and whats bad with your plans

I want that site damn it :P But talking about the compression with a G-head i'm still undecided about that cause when i had to run a 4a-f with a G-head for a while i still reckon the motor was making the same power but with a little better fuel economy and from what i know its cause of a little higher compression. And getting back to more power for cheap - high energy coil

^^ and think of all that nice hot air getting sucked up by the motor and decreasing the horse power gain. All its good for is induction noise. If you what to run a pod filter have it mounted correctly boxed off from the engine bay and run a pipe or hose from out side the engine bay. 4a-fc its carby fed. So a ECU is out of the question. :P when you think about it the carby manifold is better suited for a turbo cause the intake part, where the carby sits, is centrally located meaning that each cylinder will be getting equal air/fuel mixture along with equal ramming of the mixture into the cylinder's. The 4age manifold is a log type design with No.1 cylinder being closer to the throttle body and cylinder No.4 being further away. No.4 will get more of a ram effect whereas No.1 will have to fight for its share. Thats not to say it doesn't work cause it does work, just have a look at the range of off-the-shelf do-it-yourself turbo kits. But to really make a log manifold really work your have to make one that narrows down to cylinder No.4 so that extra cylinder gets a fair share. While the 4a-fc manifold is already fitting the bill and all it needs is a turbo ready carby or throttle body and a J-pipe. But getting back to cheap upgrades - Remember these words and think about what it means "Its all in the breathing." 2 inch exhaust maybe with extractors if you can afford them. Better air filter (eg: K and N) and being able to have the motor suck in fresh clean cool air, and a spark plug upgrade to, say, those Bosch 4-way plugs (or what ever their called)

At 7shades

Nope, the original 4age. Basically it was just a 4a-c with a twin cam head From the Billzilla site http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm There's also talk about it on www.club4ag.com but might have to do a bit of digging cause it was a good while back

My drunken supervisor is back from his holidays and even before i walked in the door the bullshit was already in motion.

Oh how true. Think RICE and how dumb it is Nice :P but i wouldn't go 19's maybe 17's. But if it was me i'd be staying with 15" or maybe upping to 16's cause i do love having some give in the side walls of the tires when hitting pot holes less heart break on rim damage

It depends on what version g'box you have. I know that the ones for the ae82 are bolted to the shaft coming out of the box where as the later ones use C-clips or something (thats going from the manuals i've got for the later versions)

Somethings a bit screwy there cause i always thought the bluetop made the 88kWs and the TVIS redtop made a bit more. And you missed out the very first generation "Blacktop"

I'd say the jets in the carby are running foul - eg gummed up or something

Thats just plain rude

How different are the TA22 and the T-18 steering arms ? Same length or one shorter then the other ? How about the top hat or what ever its called (the part of the strut that bolts to the strut tower), did you use the KE55 ones or ?

I'd place a long screw driver or something down both number one and number four spark plug holes while the pistons are just before TDC and spin the motor over and see what happens.... By rights both pistons should go down at the same time, if No.1 lags behind there's something loose down stairs or if there's very little downwards movement its a piston problem.... But as Sam said With the other good ones But normally you'd hear noises coming from the motor if somethings loose, so it could even be a high carbon build-up since your running a rich motor

I remember reading somewhere in a Q and A mechanic training manual of a problem that sounded similar - turn the motor over by hand and everything was all nice and rosy but hit the ignition and things went down hill from there.... one cylinder would drop out and its spark plug would get trashed. It was worked out to be that the top of the piston (or the head/dome/whatever) broke free and depending on where it sat it'd either work with the rest of the piston for a little while till it overcame the compression and slammed into the spark plug and rebounded (or was sucked from the vacuum) back down the cylinder... sounds odd ball but it can happen. But all in all it might just be time to take the head off and have a better look at the damage.

Hey hey their pretty good buckets them. Sell them at work :) Take the lid off the 10litre one and you could plant your bum in it or just flip it over and sit on it or just leave it up right and use the lid as a seat with a bit of practical storage space in the bucket :jamie: But in all reality if your not all that interested in buying a sports seat, then a trip to your local wrecker could be the ticket for you. And just remember if its not a bolt in fit it might have to be approved from the transport department. Or just have a walk through the yellow pages for some car trim shops and get the seat re-bolstered

Farm Town..... What can possibly be more important then tending to the electronic crops on Farm Town

Almost a luck of the draw i guess but ke3X mostly had jap whereas ke5x mostly had borg

My supervisor is on holidays at the moment The drunken tool comes back on monday......

As far as i know the 30 and 55 use the same brakes. But as coln72 said - since you have a jap diff you'll have to use the jap axles. There's as difference between the two but i don't remember what they are. I keep looking at your avatar in the vain hope something pops free cause of all the bouncing its copping.... Your diff would be the same - the more you pop the clutch on it, the quicker something in the diff housing will pop free. On that note the diff axles aren't all that twiggy but their not all that full bodied either :hammer:

And also the Trueno te series corollas eg te27 Trueno :hammer: and not the te27 which only came with a 2t-c or 2t-b

You only think that cause you can't shove macca's trays under your back wheels :hammer:

Might have to duck out to the shed for a poke at mine