Hiro Protagonist

Decreased payloads. And the sportier versions (ie SS, Maloo etc) have even smaller payloads, to the extent that they are practically useless at actually carrying anything substantial (and the standard hard tonneau means things like motorbikes etc are out). For quite a while the Ford vs Holden ute war has been a battle about style (Holden) vs substance (Ford), and the Holden has almost always come out on top (despite the Falcon probably being the better overall ute).

Holden utes have had a coil-sprung rear-end since 1990, with the VN-based VG. The IRS coil-sprung rear-end was introduced with the VX-based VU in 2001.

Could be handy to sell to a Celica owner who wants to go back to stockies before selling/scrapping etc. And just to clarify, they're Series 1 (86-early 88 I think) ST162 SX wheels, 5x100 (so won't really fit anything else Toyota apart from FWD Celicas and SV21 Camrys).

There is no simple answer though. A lot of us have KEs (or used to have them) and I bet every one of us paid a different amount of money for it. I bought one for $300 and one for $200 and the difference between the two was ridiculous (the $300 one needed minor repairs for rego but was essentially stock standard apart from a bodged headunit install and the world's loudest exhaust, and the $200 one had more rust than a hairy ranga and leaked like a sieve but had electronic dizzy, uncracked dash and 13" hotwires) and no way indicative of $100 value (I sold the $300 one eventually for $300, but got way more than $200 worth of parts out of the rust-bucket).

If you give it the right fuel, and have everything else right, then technically it should. Then again, a 4AGE making the same amount of power now as it did stock would be a minor miracle, even the best 16V is going to be close to 20 years old now, and the bigports even older.

To answer the first question, electricity is billed in kilowatt-hours. Wattage is an instantaneous power consumption figure, so you multiply by time to get total consumption. So something that needs 1W to run will use 1WHr. Thus, your average 60W globe running 24/7 will use 1440WHrs (60X24), or 1.44kWHrs. Now the price is dependent on where you live, and the time of day (peak/off-peak etc), with a rough guess of maybe 15c/kWHr peak and 8c/kWHr off-peak (which is why off-peak storage water heaters are better than instant on-demand ones). So taking an average price of 12c/kWHr (half peak, half off-peak) your light globe will cost you about 17c a day. To answer the second question, the amount of extra electricity used and the costs associated will probably be insignificant in comparison to the cost of buying more light globes as their life is significantly shortened if you repeatedly flick them on and off. There _will_ be an increase in electricity consumption, though. Or is the 20-million times an exaggeration?

Is the BIOS boot-up recognising the drive? I had this problem when I built my new machine but installed XP from my laptop on it, the SATA drive just wasn't being recognised until I went and changed some setting in BIOS (something to do with the drive being able to operate as IDE or SATA as required or something) and then bingo it worked.

Very nice, shame about the 5A though...

They're really only easier to install if you can get the RWD AE86 parts (intake/TB, water pump etc), otherwise if you're trying to custom convert a FWD engine to RWD then it is just as hard bigport or smallport.

AW11 bigports were AFM methinks. And anywhere you see 96kw mentioned for a bigport, it is for the bluetop MAP bigport in the JDM AE86. Australian bigports were 86kw for the 3-rib bluetop, 88kw for the red/blacktop 7-rib, and both were MAP (the only AFM 4AGs in Australia were the AW11 bigport, the bigport 4AGZE, and the silvertop 20v, although the last two are imports anyway)

Will also be quicker due to having 5 gears instead of 3.

My Dec '97 AE102 has 325,000.......

Looks like he's ahead of you :jamie:

More than likely, 2TGs are quite heavy for their size.

There hasn't been a Rodeo since 2008, Holden changed the name to Colorado because Isuzu pulled the rights to the name when they split from GM, and at the same time launched the D-Max in Aus (of which the Colorado is essentially a rebadge).

4AGEs (either 16v or 20v) will be _hopeless_ for off-roading, you need low-down torque for that and all the GEs are high-revving torqueless wonders. If you put a 7AFE dyno chart next to a bigport 16v (both put out the same power) you will see that the 7A has a MUCH better bottom end, often 10kw higher until peak power. A GZE would help rectify that, but you seem set on either a bigport or a 20v, in which case I'd recommend staying with the 4AFE.

Why bigport instead of smallport?

Contact with the seller fizzled out after they said they were going to get a quote for a bumper box, didn't hear from them after that then a lot of stuff started happening in my life and I forgot about it.

Now, swap the clips over so you have an ADM clip on the JDM seats (remembering to thread the wiring for the ADM seat warning light through the frame again so it can connect to the body loom. ADM clip on JDM seat Then, reverse the removal procedure to install the new seats back into the car, remembering to connect the seat-belt warning light on the driver's side. Comparison shot between JDM (driver) and ADM (passenger, with Autobahn-spec seat cover) And the new all-JDM front (photo was an afterthought, so excuse the quality :P)

Well, after taking a much needed week-long vacation to the Gold Coast, decided to drop by Terra's place and finally pick up my Levin front seats. So whilst the trip back down to Newy was kinda cramped (boot full of souvenirs and luggage, back seat full of front seats and front seats full of people, still managed 6.5L/100km from Ballina to home on a single tank), it was definitely cheaper and more efficient than getting them shipped. Anyway, apart from a few niggles the seats are a direct bolt-in to the ADM models, and the difference between the two is like night and day. Of biggest issue is the fact that the ADM seat-belt buckles do not engage the JDM clips, so that means that the clips have to be swapped over. In addition, the wiring for the seat-belt dash warning has a different plug, but since the clip is being swapped over and the wiring is kinda connected to that, it turned out to be a non-issue. And for those who like walkthroughs, here is one (note the driver's side was done in a hurry in dim light so no photos were taken) First, unscrew the two screws holding the boot/fuel-cap door release levers moulding and pull the moulding away from the rail (don't move it too far or you'll pop the boot etc, and possibly stretch the cable or pull it out of one of it's clips which I did a long time ago, meaning that the fuel door doesn't open and I have to manually do it through the boot) Then, pop off the remaining plastic covers at each end of the seat rails (most of mine had broken/fallen off anyway, especially the rears which tend to get kicked by back-seat passengers) After that, it is a matter of using a 14mm socket and extension bar (gives you more sweep) to undo all the bolts. Drivers and passengers are direct mirror images of each other Outside front Inside front Outside rear Inside rear Once the four bolts for each seat are removed, tilt the driver's seat back and unclip the seat-belt warning light wiring from the body loom. And remove the seats from the car. Now you need to swap the seat-belt clips over. To do so, unscrew the plastic trim piece on the inboard side of each seat This will expose the fastener holding the clip to the seat frame/rail. Note that the JDM seats use a nut and stud, the ADM ones a bolt and tapped hole - both work fine so no need to swap them over too. Also note that the ADM rails attach to the seats differently from the JDM rails, even though they bolt to the chassis the same - I figure this is so the JDM seats can sit lower as they are a "sporty" seat. JDM ADM To remove the clip, use a 19mm socket for the ADM seats and a 14mm socket for the JDM seats. With the driver's seat, remember that the wiring for the warning light is attached to the clip, so thread that through the seat frame so it comes out with the clip Comparison side-by-side of the clips - JDM on the left, ADM on the right. Note the much longer stalk on the ADM one, as the seat base is thicker

JDM brochures for series 1 and 2 Levin and Trueno can be found here: http://www63.tok2.com/home2/tuccy/library-le.htm

If it's a '91 then it would be one of the first ones, maybe we're just used to seeing later-series AE101s like these: *EDIT - looked at some JDM brochures I found on Toymods, the OP's lights are _definitely_ Trueno rear lights

Sorry, I meant to say the Series 2 RVs and Ultimas got the 7AFE, not the late 4AFE, but the heads are essentially the same and the front-end of an AE95 is basically an AE92 Seca with 4WD gearbox and transfer-case.

Yes the BZ-R and BZ-G were AE111 models, but the AE101 did have a superstrut option too, I think in the GTZ and GT-Apex. And a Levin with different front bar, grille and tail-lights is usually a Trueno in FWD Corollas :blinks: Usually the easiest way to tell on models prior to the AE111 is that if it has a radiator grille, it's a Levin - if the panel is solid, it's a Trueno. *EDIT - looked at the original Carpoint ad, it states there that it is a Levin GT, and closer inspection of the front-end seems to show a visible radiator grille, thus indeed making it a Levin. But yes, GT is a spec level below the good ones, but it still has a 20v, just slugged with a crappy 4-speed auto.

Series 2 AE92 RVs and Ultimas did though...