Hiro Protagonist

All well and good, except a V8 Supertaxi is actually 5.0L :wink: so thats 129BHP/L

Green = "Proceed with caution", not "Go". One of the most frequently forgotten road rules.

Does it engage fully and then pop out when you release the clutch? Or does it just not go fully in? If it's the second, it's because reverse gear is straight-cut and doesn't have synchros, thus if the gear teeth don't perfectly line up then they won't engage properly - to fix this you just rock the car a bit or shift into first and then back again to re-align the teeth.

The rear pads from a VN Commodore fit into the late Girlock calipers, they're not the same part number but are essentially the same, just slightly thicker (you need to push the piston alllll the way back into the caliper). Stock KE part number is DB1086, the Commodore part number is DB1088

WGMG - people still driving around with Australia Day flags etc attached to their cars. FFS it's called Australia DAY, not Australia week/month/however-bloody-long-I-want

Maybe this sort of thing should go in a Members Ride thread?

If it's not a Banjo diff, then it's a Bogwarmer (Borg-Warner). Def not a Salisbury

EAAAAASY. Just remember to put a little bit of the Toyota Black sealant (Permatex Ultra Grey works in a pinch too) around the half-moon sections of the seal (where the cam gear drives the exhaust cam, and the exhaust cam drives the distributor)

Nope, just a 10 (or 12mm, can't remember) socket for the 4 cam-cover bolts and the cable cover, then lever the washers off the cam cover studs _carefully_ (they perish and break quite easily if they are old), disconnect the breather and PCV hoses, take the spark plug leads out then just pull the cover off. IF it hasn't been removed before the cover will probably be fairly stuck to the head though, so a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet down underneath the cambelt end (where the cable-cover bolts down on the exhaust side) should loosen it up. You can disconnect the harness from the air-con etc if you wish, but it should _just_ slide over the covers whilst connected if you don't want to start unplugging things and then forget where they go

In saying that though, the KEs were designed to run on leaded petrol (in Australia), which was roughly 95 octane, thus when leaded petrol was phased out 95 was basically stated as the norm for all pre-unleaded cars that had hardened valve seats (as the Kseries does, as it ran unleaded in Japan). Of course, this all goes out the window the instant you muck around with timing or the carby, after that point you can run it on normal 91 or 100 racing fuel, as long as it is tuned right.

Not a jab at Toymods I hope (which actually has free forum membership and as long as you use the grey matter between your ears before posting, everyone gets along fine)....

The French have never heard of the term "shoulder room", have they?

From AE10x and on, Corolla hatches have always been called Secas (in Aus at least), the liftback AE102 was the Sprinter.

Nope, but you can slash the horse's legs...

Maybe try the KR42 Townace whilst your there, and nick the 7K too :)

And even if you can't put the tranny into neutral (either manual or auto, although Americans don't know what a manual is), you should be able to slam on the brakes. Every modern car should have brakes powerful enough to stop the car even with full power applied (it takes less time to stop from 100km/h than it does to accelerate there). Either way, this could be VERY damaging for Toyota US. If anyone can remember the debacle with the Audi 5000, they'll know the damage even a single incident can cause. Audi was forced to drop the 5000 name (even though they were entirely not at fault and cleared of any charges), and Audi sales in the US plummeted and didn't return to former levels for 15 years

I remember when Sega GT had the TE27 in it...

I always thought they just sent letters or telegrams to the mainland where someone would type it in on their behalf?

They don't put anything _in_ the water, it just comes naturally like that. Anyone who has drunk Adelaide water will know about it.

WGMG - air motors. Designing a trolley at work to take ~700kg load, need an air motor with the right speed/torque characteristics PLUS worm-drive gearbox, flange mounting AND cast-iron housing, and am yet to find a single one which fits all criteria... Found one that is almost perfect, except the gearbox is alloy housing which is a big no-no underground.

AE82 Twincam Seca 7-rib pigport 4AGE Catback exhaust Note AFRs were all over the place due to lack of intake air-temp sensor, plus god-knows how many wiring gremlins and mis-matched components (was probably the 3rd different engine that the car had had over it's lifetime, including a stint with a GZE) AE102 sedan 7AFE CAI, exhaust By this time next year I hope to have a lot more power, but still staying NA :dance:

Some version/customised variant of Sunraysias perhaps?

That'd be Russell Crowe, not Mel Gibson.

God, a 4KC manual running an auto diff/final drive. Man that thing must be fast

Fixed. Newcastle is just as bad, if not worse than Sydney as far as drivers who have no clue about road rules are concerned.