Hiro Protagonist

Ryco specify the Z68 for K-motors, and that has a different seal diameter to the Z386 so it mightn't be the best idea to mix and match

Photos are good... You sure that the Momo wheel will bolt up to the SAAS bosskit too? Not all wheels fit all bosskits, remember.

Might sound a bit stupid, but are you putting it on the right way? Remember also that boss kits aren't always designed for specific models, they cover a wide range and thus mightn't be a perfect fit on each and every car within that range.

Corollas were "AE" from 1981 to 2001 (ish), but in that time they came out in 4 different chassis models - AE8x, AE9x, AE10x and AE11x. The A refers to the A-series engine, and the E is Toyota's chassis-code for Corolla (and Corollas have had the E chassis code from the very beginning, even the RWD models) You need to go by the year, which in your case is a 1996 model (AE102), and thus only things from 1994-1998 are designed for your series of car.

Unless you fully immerse the pod in water (ie you decide to go into a big fat puddle more than say 30cm deep at slow speed), you don't need to worry about the pod sucking up water. It won't cop heaps of spray from the road because it is in front of the front wheel (and protected by the splashguard), and most air intakes will pick up a bit of spray anyway no matter where they are mounted (ie behind the headlight/radiator grille). I've run a pod behind the front bumper with the splashguard pushed open a bit as a makeshift ram-scoop for a good year now, and never had any problems (and driven plenty of times in the rain)

Judging by that list the BK192L should be the right part, no idea why you'd even bother looking at the 85-88 model one (that's AE82).

When are the caterpillar tracks going on? The turbo ISF I've seen pictures for needed the turbos there because there wasn't room in the engine-bay

Actually no, it's an AE11x Corolla wagon :y:

Rear-mount turbos are one of the things that I expect to see a lot more of as engines get bigger and enginebays get smaller.

Did a bit of a dodgy the other day, was changing the pads on Cara's ST162 when I noticed something dripping on the driveway.....wasn't oil, wasn't coolant, wasn't power-steering fluid, wasn't water.....Oh F**K it's brake fluid. Turns out the previous owner had topped up the fluid even though the level was just low because of the pad wear, so when I reset the pistons it overflowed. Seeing as how I didn't have a syringe or brake-bleeding kit handy, I figured the easiest way to get the excess out of the system was to simply push both front pistons in as far as they could go (even further than necessary to get them around the new pads) so that the excess would overflow and leave me with a normal level once the system was primed again. So once both calipers were back on, was pleased to note that the level had dropped a bit, so put the cap back on and then proceeded to flush the whole area with several litres of water (brake fluid not exactly being the best thing to leave lying around on wiring and paint). Started the car, and the brake pedal goes straight to the floor :hmm: excellent, that should prime the system and suck the level down a bit more, so pumped the pedal a bit more until pressure came back and lo-and-behold, the level in the reservoir had dropped back to normal :wink:

Which bits? Extractors - not a chance Piping - most likely not Cat/mufflers etc - if they're flanged, maybe, otherwise you'd need to cut the pipes off and weld new ones Either way, there will have to be some customising

Yeah, Fung Kwei in Port Vila is awesome for booze, I picked up a litre of 100-proof Southern Comfort and a litre-bottle of Benedictine for about $40 when I was there :wink:

Putting a one-way valve on a MAP sensor line is downright stupid, and the car won't run properly at all (if it _runs_ at all). And running an N/A MAP sensor on a boosted engine is also downright stupid. If you put a one-way valve on the vacuum line, then the MAP sensor will never read drops in pressure, only increases, until eventually it hits max pressure and saturates, which will do wonders for your engine. Plus, the valve won't stop the pressure at atmospheric either. Anyway, a boosted engine _NEEDS_ a MAP sensor which can read positive pressures, otherwise the ECU won't have a clue what is going into the engine when boost hits and your fuel maps will be like spraying a waterbottle on a bushfire - useless. So, in short, you need a MAP sensor which can read positive pressure. And you don't have any kind of limiting or directional valve on the vacuum line at all. As for the brake booster, you can still run it off the plenum as has been said, as the manifold will still register vacuum off-boost and off-throttle (ie when you'll be braking anyway) so there is no problem there. However, you DO need a one-way valve on the booster line (there will be one there standard anyway) otherwise the vacuum will never accumulate in the booster. And if you want to make your life a lot easier, buy a 4AGZE and turbo that - it is a LOT easier as you already have low-comp pistons, as well as a MAP sensor or AFM designed for boost applications, plus better fueling.

7AFE gudgeon pin is press-fit, 4AGE is floating.

Use a T50 instead of the W55 and you won't need to cut/mould the firewall. No need for a W-series on a standard non-boosted 4A.

And if the spring flies out and hits you in the face, will it be shits and giggles then? Or if the car crushes the battery and spills sulfuric acid all over the floor, will it be shits and giggles then too? There's a difference between cutting corners/taking the easy option/being lazy and just plain stupidity. Using a spring and a battery to hold a car up falls into the plain stupidity category.

Except he said he had a 4AGE bigport, which has the dizzy on the side of the engine in a RWD-friendly spot. It is only the FE heads and the 20vs which have it hanging off the end/back of the engine and thus give firewall problems in a RWD car.

Aaargh, that be the Dawn...

WGMG - Having to go to work on a Saturday for overtime....still, at least it's a good load of extra money, and I've got 6 gig of music on my phone to keep me occupied

What sort of gains are you after? The 7AFE doesn't have much off-the-shelf stuff that you can do to it, it's a bit of an un-loved orphan in that regard, but a refresh, exhaust/intake and maybe even a bit of headwork you can go chasing 4AGEs. As for swapping in a whole new engine, your options basically boil down to (in order of complexity): 4AGE 20v, 4AGZE (probably only the last of them will be suitable), 7AGE hybrid, 3SGE/GTE. None of those are "easy" tasks though, and all will require some measure of custom fabrication as well as re-wiring the car.

If you pay $50 for it you're the f*cked up person :lolcry: Can get a perfectly good one for $10-ish at Supercheap usually.

I used my mini lunch-box/esky as a wheel chock/jack when I was changing the struts in the AE102...

I just use the "View new posts" button anyway.....

Pfft, Honda have made turbo cars before - the City for instance.