Hiro Protagonist

Thats a 4AC though, so it's non-crossflow. The 4AFC and 6AFC are crossflow, so the exhaust is on the other side of the engine to the intake.

+40 is WAAAAAY too much offset for a KE55. As an idea, I've got 14x7 Supra mags on my KE55, and they've got an offset of +8, and they _just_ stick out of the guards, so the offset is perfect. +40 will mean MAJOR scrubbing on the shocks, most likely front and rear. +40 is an offset more commonly used on FWD cars (such as the FWD Corollas)

There's a thread on Toymods about using various brake and suspension components from various Toyotas (like RA60, XT130, MX32), plus a Pajero master cylinder, for around $250 + labour.

I'm in a similar situation now, except it's money, not time. Mate of mine is returning his 102 to stock before he sells it, so I've got an opportunity to get a full mandrel exhaust, stainless resonator and muffler, hpc extractors, ported head, upsized throttle body, CAI, eManage, slottle DBA rotors, plus some other juicy stuff, but I just can't afford all of it.

A lot more than a bigport, you mean. Most stock bigports dyno around 65-75kw, depending on the day and the dyno

Absolutely definitely 4x114.3. They changed to 4x100 for the FWD AE8x series, and stayed like that until the new ZRE15x series

Quick calculation If you want to know the difference in speed as a percentage (which is what it will be, not a constant number), you use the ratio of the old rolling diameter to the new diameter D = rim diameter (in inches) + 2 * (tyre width in mm * sidewall profile (in percent) / 100) So if you have 17" rims with 205/40 tyres, you'll have a D of 596.8mm Chances are your original wheel/tyre combo was something like 175/65 on 14" rims, or 165/75 on 13" rims In that case you'd have an old D of 583.1mm for 14", or 577.7mm for 13" Thus, your speed ratio is then 102.35% if you originally had 14s, or 103.3% for 13s So it's around a 2 to 3% increase in speed, thus your speedometer will be reading low by 2 to 3% (which equals 102.35 or 103.3km/h at an indicated 100km/h)

And the GTi only came with steel wheels, not mags either (so much for "top-of-the-line")

Correct, we got a Levin front end (fixed lights), but our taillights are slightly different (and obviously have the Sprinter logo on them). The ADM car is a Toyota Sprinter, and was only ever badged as just that. Not a Levin, not a Trueno, not even a Corolla (although it obviously is a Corolla, just was never badged that). Similar thing happened with the ADM TE72, which was badged as a Toyota T-18. Oh, and the 3A appeared in some US-spec (I think) AE85s (which is where the incredibly rare A-K gearbox comes from), same body-shape as an AE86. Correct me if I'm wrong, though

Done it before, and got 100% first time around. The one that almost threw me the most was the gear-train one where you had to match the words to the gear-train design. Couldn't work out reverse until I remembered the idler gear - in most gearboxes, reverse is actually the same direction as the engine rotates, with all other gears the other way around

By the way, that little white bar thing below your coil is a Ballast Resistor. It's used to bring coil voltage down to around 9V instead of the standard 12-14V you get from a car battery. Should only cost a couple of bucks from your standard parts place (Supercrap, Repco etc) to replace

My favourite is The TTP Project Look it up

The debate isn't about 20Vs not making power. It's about them not being able to make much power N/A without serious dollar spendage, especially compared to a 16V

*Taken to PM

There are no skid marks on the road to indicate where the Commonwhore driver reefed the handbrake trying to do a handbrake park?

OK, I'm a member of another large forum basically dedicated to the A-series engine and the various cars it came in (Twincam.org). A lot of the members on that site, who have owned various incarnations of the A-series, all the way from the pitiful little 2A and 3A all the way up to blacktops and GZEs, plus heavily modified ones including a 300+kwatw 7AGTE Levin. There is a significant proportion of that population that believe that the 20Vs are overrated, produce less power than was stated from factory (this has been shown numerous times on dyno runs side-by-side with smallports). Hell, one of my mates (also on Twincam) dyno'd higher than a blacktop at the last dyno day I went to, and he's only got a midly worked 7AFE. Tell me how intake, exhaust, mild headwork and an eManage can make up a 35kw deficit (7A stock has 86kw, blacktop has ~120kw). The silvertop 20V has an identical bottom-end to an AE101 MAP GZE (crank, rods), just with higher compression pistons. THIS is why it is better suited to forced induction than a blacktop bottom end. As a general rule, all 4agze engines have the same internal engine componets as equivalent 4A-GE engine from the same age/car - except pistons..... AE101 gze has same crank and rods as silvertop 20V, but heads are different of course. AE92 smallport has same head, cams, crank, rods, block, etc etc. The reason why (in NSW) you can't put a smallport in an AE101 is because NSW regulations state (in effect) that the engine you put in must meet or exceed the emissions performance of the original motor. This may or may not change under NCOP, I can't remember though. As for the lift term, since both ZZ engines sold in Australia have variable valve timing with intelligence, the term lift is used as a general reference to the VVTL-i used on the 2ZZGE. This is a very common term used amongst the Sportivo and Celica crowd, of which I am also a part (through Toyota Owners Club Australia)

For future reference, thats the air intake temperature sensor

Most aftermarket camshafts for the 20Vs do not incorporate VVT, so thats a major downside. Plus, there simply doesn't seem to be as much potential in them compared to 16Vs, put 5 grand into a fresh smallport or silvertop and the smallport will win just about every time.

pics/vidorban

Most people believe that the 20V engines are both overated in N/A form, as they cann't be modified anywhere near as much as a stock 16V. On the other hand, the silvertop is quite suited to forced induction, as it shares the bottom-end with the MAP 4AGZE (but is weaker than the earlier AFM GZEs). The blacktop is designed for high-revving N/A, and as such has relatively weak internals. Depending on what model car you want to put it in (if it's a late model AE10x for instance, the 16V is pretty much out of the question), a smallport 16V (100kw) is your best bet, and the most readily available too with strong aftermarket support As for VVT-i, no A-series engine ever had it. VVT-i for Corollas was introduced on the ZZ-series engine, with the 1ZZFE having VVT-i and the 2ZZGE having VVTl-i (often called lift). The 20V 4AGEs had two different kinds of VVT, which are different again to VVT-i. They switched based on throttle position of other similar linear measures, and as such did not have the intelligence to be called VVT-i

Useless, useless post. FWD Celicas have either the 5x100 (SX ST162s and every other one since) or 4x100 stud pattern (ST model ST162). Neither of those will fit a KE FWD Corollas have 4x100 PCD, or 5x114.3 on the very new ones, also neither of which will fit a KE

There are two basic stock styles that came from factory, one for the pre-facelift models and one of the facelifted ones. The pre-facelift grille is black, with a single thin bar running the full length of the grille roughly two-thirds of the way up. The facelifted grille is grey (or white if you have a CSX/RV, I think), with no bar running across the middle. This is the facelift one:

I'm under the impression that all of the KE55s had the centre console, both facelift and non-facelift (ie square and round-light). Both my SEs (povo-spec models) had centre consoles.

Pretty stupid idea to steal a limited edition car which even has a build number on the centre-console, makes them very easy to track