Hiro Protagonist

Or liquid paper bottles

daaaaaaaaaayummmm..... Me wanty very muchy, but can't afford

Yes, the 18RG was standard in the RA40 GT, any RWD Celica that was a GT model had the 18RG in it (maybe some had EFI etc), except for the TA22 GT which had the 1600 2TG in it Pros: Sounds orgasmic with twin sidedraughts Solid power Reliability Fair bit of aftermarket support and huge knowledgebase (if you can get into Toymods) Cons: Getting rare and expensive Later models had significantly less power Stock twin Solexes can prove problematic Heavy as a boat anchor About as big as one too

Unplug all sensors and wiring from your 3K (I'm assuming thats what is in there already) Remove engine Install 4K, bolting into the exact same things as the 3K Install all plugs and sensors in exact same location as the 3K There's basically nothing to it, the engines are essentially identical apart from internals/block height and carby

I've always found the trick to not being blinded by headlights is to not look at them (even though it's human nature). Look to the left of the road, and use the white line on the shoulder as guidance, thus avoiding as much glare as possible

Which is why I want those KE55 door mirrors removed from the KE70 pronto......and then given to me :wink:

Supra has been out of production/sale since 2002 (in Japan) and 1999 (US) Hilux and Rodeo haven't looked similar for donkeys years, and if they ever did its because all the utes looked the same back in those days Methinks you're getting it confused with the Bravo/Courier twins, which are the same ute underneath. Hilux is made by Toyota, Rodeo by Isuzu and then rebadged as a Holden

You're more likely to scrub the inside of the rim/tyre on the struts. Plus, the wheels won't have as much "dish"

No, he said FE head........there's a lot more behind this than you or a lot of people know about.

They just look like stock KE55 door mirrors, not fender mirrors. Did you happen to buy these off eBay? ('Cause I was bidding on a pair and got out-bid at the last second)

Agreed

Nope, pretty much all Toyota's autos are A-series, with different numbers and number of digits representing individual gearboxes. W-series are purely manuals

4x100 is correct, but -25 won't go anywhere near fitting Even +25 is a bit of a stretch. Standard offset for 112s is about +40, so I'd go something around that, nothing lower than +35 otherwise you'll probably have wheels sticking out of the guards and major scrubbing issues. If you're getting them from a shop of any kind, they should have a book with the listings of each car and what the respective PCD/offset etc is. Oh, and the centre hole should be 54mm (I think), if it's any bigger than that you'll need hub rings to space the gap so that the studs don't bear the weight of the car

Big up

Just as an interesting aside, the fuel tank cap on my AE102 also has this logo.....so it's not just old stuff that it's on

Wow, some people actually got sucked in by Oakmont's fake ads.......he actually got some phone calls about them too, along with the green AE92, gave us plenty of laughs on Twincam

4x100

Thats because they still use K-motor stuff in them....which is old enough to still have the old logo on it

Yes, it is upside down, but then again so is the 710 logo you normally see on oil caps :y: It is often referred to as the TEQ logo, and it's the katakana for To-yo-ta. The original company name was Toyoda (it was a family name), but Toyota had the lucky number of strokes in it's characters, so thats supposedly why the name was changed The actual katakana looks like this

It's the old Toyota logo (back when they changed the name from Toyoda because the logo had a lucky number of strokes when you wrote it)

Both of the 55s that I've owned have had the 4-2-1, with the 2-1 bit happening in the engine pipe as opposed to the manifold. Both of those manifolds I'm 99% certain are stock to the 55 too

TE71s are huge for drag-racing in Puerto Rico, they boost the hell out of the 3TC until it blows and then buy another one

When comparing wheels, assuming they are the same width, a high positive offset (like +30 or higher) will stick out less than those with a low positive offset or negative offset (like +20 or lower) In case you didn't know, offset refers to the distance between the back mounting face of the rim (think of the bit which touches the hub) and the centre-line of the wheel. Dish usually means low positve or negative offset

Hmmm, quad-headlight KE70, 18RG, 15" Soarer mags.............daaaayamnnnn :evil: :D :y: :y: :y: :y: :y: :y: