Hiro Protagonist

From HERE XT130 Struts, and XT130 steering knuckles and MX62 calipers and RA60 discs $60 from pick-a-part (pretend they are all from 1 car when you pay for them and make sure the car you say its off is the most unliked car in the universe - my tag line is "they are from a early 80's corona, you know, the ugly one" *then open up empty wallet and say "i only have 60 bucks" then watch as everyone gets annoyed but succumb to your pathetic plight) Pajero Master Cylinder $90 Brake Pads $60 Beer to pay fitter to do some welding $40 Total Cost $250

Good thing about Toyota is that basically all their 70s and 80s RWD cars have the same stud pattern (4x114.3), roughly the same offset (+20, with a few exceptions), same size and pitch studs, and same spigot size, so you can mix and match as much as you want. I've got MA61 Supra mags on the KE55, and the only thing that needs to be changed is to use the Supra wheel nuts (flat flange) as opposed to the stock Corolla ones (tapered)

The ADM AE101/102 central locking remote is a flat egg shape, seperate from the key, with only a single button and a two small silver strips on the leading edge. I know for certain that SXV10R Camry (same time period, mid-late 90s) had the same shape remote too (I drive a 102, and parents own a 10R, both with remote central locking), and probably many other Toyotas of the same time period

I'd be checking earths if I were you

If you want the wiring diagrams to an ADM AE102, I've got them all uploaded to a Photobucket account: AE102 wiring diagrams As to getting the remote start to work, you've probably come across the immobiliser. The factory remote is usually coded by Toyota, then you can alter the settings by using the directions in the factory users manual and the socket in the glove box, but that obviously won't work with an aftermarket remote start module. I haven't attempted to set up a remote start system with my 102, but I'm pretty sure it has been done before.

You knocking the 4-speed?

Snake-tec YO!

When I went to the Toymods Dyno Day at the start of the year (run on a Dyno Dymanics dyno in shootout mode at SAS), they tended to do all the 4-cylinder engines in 3rd gear, and all the others in 4th. No idea why, but they did

So what ended up being the problem with the GT4?

Yes the 55 has a charcoal canister, it's connected to the bracket which holds down the battery

I believe the gearboxes are identical, but the placement of the shifter differs between KE70 and KE55

Newcastle. Was heavily involved back in 2005, a little bit in '06 and this year too. We're going 600 KTM single this year, most other teams that run singles use 450s (so should give us some advantage) If I had to use a 600 inline 4 bike engine, the R6 would be the one to use though, UQ from a few years back had it and it sounded tits, they won the acceleration event too.

The Rover V8 is essentially the Buick/Oldsmobile 215ci V8, just they sold the tooling to Rover when the useful life of the engine in the US ran out. The Repco engine was destroked to 3L, plus it was SOHC too, but apart from that it is derived from the Rover/215

They do make a huge difference, even as misaligned as they are at the moment Next stop is installing the tacho and giving the wheels a long awaited polish/clean

OK, been a long time since I've last updated, so I think it's time for a re-fresh pre-firstly, rust has been cut out (has been for a long time), drivers seat has new mounts welded in, and now slides more than half-way back (one of the bolts connecting the rail to the seat was loose and jamming the rail), parts car Pineapple has come and gone Firstly, Hotwires are now sold (finally) Secondly, electronic dizzy is IN, all working fine too and seems to have slightly more power than when on points (points probably needed changing) Thirdly, got me some sparkly new headlights the other week, installed them last weekend and boy do they make a difference. Down at the foreshore with Charlene after a good hard clean Fourthly, FINALLY got a tacho (although not got around to installing it yet). Now I can finally tell how fast the engine is going, replacing the old loud-very loud-deafeningly loud-shift system that we've been using up until now. Cheers to hymen-rob for the tacho

Welcome to torque-hole central. Using a bike engine in a car only works if you lose about 3-400kg of weight from the car. Plus, it would need to be mid/rear mounted or have a huge-ass chain drive Out of curiousity, which uni are you doing SAE for, and how come you're sticking with a 4cylinder? Most teams (including us, after 4 years with the CBR600) are moving to singles these days

The reason lift pumps and surge tanks are used is generally on cars which have been converted from carby to EFI. In a carby car, the fuel tank often doesn't have baffles, which means surges/starving of the fuel pump happen all the time. However, the carby itself acts as a surge tank (and the fuel pump is often in the engine bay), and so fuel supply to the engine is always constant. In an EFI car, the fuel pump is in the fuel tank, which is baffled to prevent the pump sucking in air instead of fuel and starving the engine. Cars which are converted to EFI often keep the old un-baffled carby tank, and thus need a surge tank (often tall and skinny, like a bottle) and lift pump to prevent surges from starving the fuel pump (which because of the pressure is a very bad thing).

If you're going Astron, might as well go Sirius

I thought the problem with RWD 3S conversions (apart from BEAMS) was that they didn't have the provision for the extra engine mount, plus the whole cooling problem

Pretty sure there's a A-engine-to-K-gearbox bellhousing, but it's pretty rare (although may be common on the other side of the world). Came in the AE85, which had the crappy 2A or 3A (can't remember) with a K-series box behind it. Poor man's cousin to the AE86

My uncle's in the Army too, been in and out for the last 15-20 years or so. He's a Major, can't remember which unit but it's highly unlikely he'd be in Iraq, as he's a Thai translator and therefore spends much of his deployment at embassies in SE Asia He was in the Telstra ad years ago about East Timor, he was behind and to the side of Cosgrove

Agreed Try and find a 3.0L Brabham Formula 1 version, doubt you would though :D

That'd be the old 4M. Basically worthless unless you REALLY want to spend money on it, then there are heaps of better and more practical options. The M-series are renowned for their strength, potential, huge-ass size and supertanker-like weight. The first two are desirable characteristics, the last two definitely aren't. If you were sticking something in an old MkII or Crown and wanted something authentic, then it might be the go (then again it should have the 4M in there already anyway), but anything newer and there's no point. Inline 6 and under 2.6L, the 1G-series is probably your best bet - been done before, smaller and lighter than the M-series, plenty of aftermarket support for it, plenty of potential when turbo-ed (200-odd kw at the wheels), modern, reliable etc etc

Good to see it went to a fellow enthusiast, knew exactly which car it was when you said #77, did you get it bone stock or with all the other good stuff he had on it originally?

Depends which angle he was shooting from........from front passenger corner of the car, bullets would pass through the top of the passenger side of the windscreen to hit the driver, didn't have to be front-on remember