Felix

you should just use an ipod or something and plug it into an amp with a rca converter plug. your tunes are then portable and there is nothing visible in your car for it to be broken into.

:P you sort of have the idea. a rat rod is more about go than show. they are meant to be driven. generally they are works in progress, where looking pretty is the last thing to be addressed.

more here

also mazda 626 RWD rims fit. 13 x 5.5". i've bought 10 so far from the wreckers for under $100. if you run mazda steel rims you have to file the center hole on the fronts slightly, otherwise they are a bitch to get off.

like these:

all 3k's had double row setups. raid one. the double row gears don't wear very much, so just combine with a new chain and tensioner.

:P that looks stupid. totally wrong era of car for that type of look.

they are ke1x struts. i'd say that the mazda 323 part was in reference to the springs. the strut inserts would have to be a fair bit shorter than stock, otherwise it would have mega droop. probably why you can run it so low and still have captive springs. it's got the little ke1x/2x discs.

i reckon a square car should have a square spoiler. but as Nick said, "Each to their own".... :o

4k's came in ke55's. the timing cover seal is exactly the same as for a 3k. you could get one from repco, autopro or auto1. a bearing and seal supplier such as CBC bearings would most likely be cheaper. NJ102 is the ACL part number for just the seal.

i'd prefer a HT/HK/HG monaro anyday. you would probably be able to pick up an ex bathurst contender for that sort of money.

the timing cover seal is what you are talking about. don't bother trying to remove the timing cover, or drop the oil. you will make way to much uneeded work for yourself. you will most likely need to remove the radiator to give yourself working room. remove the fanbelt, undo the crank pulley bolt, you will probably need to shock it off with a breaker bar and a SST1 (special service tool 1, ie big f'n hammer). remove the crank pulley, usually you can simply pry it off with a couple of big flathead screwdrivers. pry the old seal out with a screwdriver. then carefully tap the new seal in (a big socket the same diameter as the seal eases the process) and put it all back together. cost you $10 for a new seal and an hour or so to fit it. i have to do the same for my 5k in my ke15.

if you are going to replace the timing chain, you should consider upgrading to a double row setup and install a reground cam while you are in there. save you having to drop the sump twice. not really a fun job in a car. replace the 4 timing cover studs with bolts. it will make life way easier if you have to pull it again later. look into a jaycar or dick smith high energy ignition kit. these work with the stock points but switch the coil electronically. i have had a set of points last 3 years with one. only the rubbing block wears, the contacts never pit.

i think a tighe 112 grind would be nicely suited. yes a cam shop can regrind your existing cam to those specs.

LOL, we got all the info back from the council. we are totally within our rights to run them inside of "regulated device" operating hours. :y: i even added an extra muffler to them. seems to have picked up the low-midrange. :( not so t-tangy, more of a deeper sound, and a lot quieter. i'll just go buy a drum kit if they want to complain more. give them something to really whinge about. :D

the head and cam are interchangable. the k-c cam and 3k-c item will be the same. any decent cam grinding shop should be able to regrind the cam to suit your specs.

narrowbands are way better than guessing. i guess the thing to ask would be who has actually tried an an AFR meter.... i have a 4 wire heated o2 sensor mounted in my exhaust after the extractors. i connect up a dse/jaycar type AFR which gives a numerical output. now it may not be necessarily super accurate, but used with a stopwatch works pretty effectively. you sort of learn after a short period where the sweetspot is.

this thread is funny. you should try driving a HQ holden with no power steering. my missus used to drive one up a windy mountain road on a daily basis. she is only 5 foot 4". wuss! :D

a 5k isn't really a conversion. more just a simple engine change. i would just do a conversion to something newer like a 4age in a ke30. heaps more potential later on when you are ready for more power.

rotaries are cool (especially the earlier ones), although way overpriced rustbuckets. :P i found the vid in my signature from some goped site while researching how to quieten a 2 stroke. made me laugh, so i adopted it. your thing sounds like it is coming along nicely.

thanks guys. :P i agree. people are strange. i can't believe how so many people just let their dogs bark needlessly. it seems that the mini quad bikes are classified as "a regulated device", so they comform to the same noise restriction regulations as lawn mowers and whipper snippers. by the looks of it the neighbours haven't a foot to stand on. apparently over the other side of "the neighbors" there is a kid who rides a motorbike and gokart up and down the road at all hours(it is over the otherside of the hill so we don't really hear it). so it seems because of someone else doing the totally wrong thing, we get labelled as bad irresponsible people as well. i do admit to have ran them a bit late until dark before. now i know the proper times, i won't let it happen again (they will have no grounds for future complaint). likewise for the lawnmower, which actually 2 of the "neighbours who complained" have gone outside of the allowable time period themselves on quite a few occasions... what i might do is see if i can further muffle the kids bikes. i think that should be seen as doing the correct thing. as i said before it is not like we run them excessively, only 2 hours a week on average.

your ke10 has the late ke11/18 grill. around '69 the ke10's with the later dash adopted the later grills. your early one has probably had it changed. i have an early ke10 with the same later grill...at some stage it had a front ender, and got the later guards, big side indicators, bumper (with cutouts on lower edge), stone tray, and front split indicators/parkers. the grill you are after fits in between the early ke10 one above, and the one you have. the sprinter grill was unique to just the sprinter. this is what a ke15/17 sprinter grill looks like (the proper badge should be a green colour):

thanks guys... it has been a bad week (most of which i haven't mentioned yet). not sure what to do as yet. need to get a final ruling from the local council and go from there (might chase it up more tomorrow). we live near a town, but i think we are classified as a rural property. if it is favourable, i guess we will stick it up the old farts which have complained. otherwise, we will have to sell the quad bikes the kids love so much. :P i'd consider moving further out, but we just signed a 12 month lease the week before this crap came up. really at the end of the day, you really want to make the kids happy, so if it comes down to a fight for them, i guess it's on.

i know of a guy who put one in his ke17. from what i remember him telling me, he had to cut and shut the sump to clear the xmember. apparently the sump is wider than a normal 5k sump, which makes sense to accomodate the extra stroke. apart from that it was just a bolt in. i never went for a run in it, but a friend did.... effortless power.

that thing looks alright. looks as though you are serious about the handling side of things with those tyres. the whiteline bars are around $200 + postage. i thought about the black bonnet for a bit, but decided they are best left for drift ae86's and ke70's these days... Fayt, that is not a ke15 grill. that is just the early ke10 grill.