Felix

:P you're welcome.

dizzy, yes. fuel pump, ditto.

the factory twin dump manifold isn't that bad. really it could do with some porting, and larger secondary pipes made up. stopping the gaskets blowing out where the secondary pipes join is the biggest hassle with them. a single muffer works fine so long as it is a reverse flow type. a ke10 exhaust is not interchangeable, different floorpan. as has been said, 2" max for an NA engine. don't waste your money on a stainless system (probably cost more than the car did). nothing wrong with a mild steel system, so long as it is thickwall tubing.

sad but true....

well, why else would they put the thing on the carb? it is simply to stop a flat spot (bog) if the secondary is opened to fast. they can easily be removed. you just may have to open the throttle a bit slower so the airflow can keep up.

also look at toyota3tc.com

depends on how heavy breathing the engine is i suppose. a stock 4k probably would not like it, but a 5k probably could take it. a quick easy test is to wire the flapper valve open, and go for a drive.

nice cars. love the rims Carlitos :P are they 15's?

there was a guy on oldcorollas (quite a while ago) who supercharged a 4k in a clubman. he had head sealing issues, think he used an ARP stud kit.

you'd end up with a huge flatspot if you mashed the throttle at low revs.

ahh, but..... the single 40 dcoe as they have set it up will flow more than a normal set of twin 40mm sidedrafts. :P

250psi.... you got a diesel in it now? :P

check out this inlet manifold setup with single 40mm weber. definitely different. reckon it would work? more info here, and more pics of the car here

yea, i'd be checking out your cam timing then. NA, it should be making peak HP at around 7500.

timing? mixtures? plug gaps need closing? wrong plug grade? cam to far advanced? did it go flat in the topend previous to putting on the nitrous? are you giving it a 100 hp hit?

no idea if it is common. my old EH holden had no filler plug on the diff. you had to jack up the diff on one side, pop an axle, and pour the oil in that way.

you should have the throttle fully open when you do a compression test. a dry compression test is what you have done. if you get low readings from a dry test you do a wet test. a wet compression test is when you put a teaspoon or so of oil down the plug hole. if the compression increases on a wet test, it means your ring seal is suspect. no improvement means the valves or headgasket is the culprit.

fark. :P maybe it is airflow limited. might need bigger carbs etc. what has been done to the motor so far?

the corona rt40/51 1600S engines did have an SU copy type of aisan. no idea of what the manifold is. it isn't from a 1600s corona though, they were a non xflow engine. doubt it is from an A series or L series Datto as they are also non xflow engines. looks like there is some sort of spacer/adapter between the carbs and manifold.

nice. what sort of flowbench are you looking at getting, or are you going to build your own?

i'd try winding up the base timing. bump it up to say 12 degs and try it out. if it improves try an extra 2 degs at a time until you get no further benefit. maybe you could look into getting the dizzy recurved to suit your mods.

yea, degreaser is bad for shiny aluminium, makes them oxidise a lot faster.

ahhh, but yours doesn't have a Paddy Hopkirk leather rim steering wheel. lol. worth a pretty penny that one. :lmao:

the discs just bolt to the back of the hubs. it is the hubs which determine what the pcd of the rims should be, not the discs themselves. the ke3x/55/70 discs will bolt up to your ke15 disc hubs. :P

can't remember the particular model code. was the first bodyshape they came out in.