Felix

maybe look into modding an ae86, ae82 or ae92 front bar? i know the ae92 ones have airflow holes in them, but would probably need narrowing.

what has been done to the 4k? unless you have at least extractors and a decent exhaust there really isn't much to be gained from a weber upgrade. headwork and a cam will help wakeup more HP with a carb swap. at the moment i am running a stock 3k carb on my warm 5k as my 28/36 DCD weber died. :dance: my 5k is solid liftered with extractors, exhaust, cam and headwork. with the stocky 3k aisan carb strangling it, it will still match a brand new v6 commodore up to 100 kays. a bit slow atm but will be fixed very soon. :harhar:

if you are not breaking diffs, maybe consider taking a center to a diff reconditioner. get them to put in new bearings, adjust the backlash and relap the gears. don't do burnouts unless they are rollon's.... :harhar: a celica diff would be good and all, but it will need to be narrowed for a ke11, unless maybe you run FWD offset rims. then you will need to change the front stud pattern to match (no big deal with ke30 hubs), and add a set of spacers up front. the escort diffs aren't overly strong. a mate of mine broke a half dozen or so behind a stock 1600. then you will need to change the stud pattern (around $100 per axle) as the esky has a 108 PCD and your ke11 a 110 PCD. also the escort is all imperial, so you will need to fiddle with custom brake hoses and stuff.

you could always drill a hole in it an put it on a necklace.

my 4 into 1 pacemaker extractors cost $40 from a wreckers. my sports exhaust with a 3 bolt flange on the extractors with a 1 7/8" system and a single reverse flow muffler cost $200 all up. this was at a place that allowed me to watch them hang the system. all this was done around 6 years ago, and is still going strong. :harhar:

not necessarily. turbos cause back pressure in the exhaust, which robs power. they cause more underbonnet heat. they require more stuffing around to setup with custom exhaust manifolds and oil/water feeds, whereas a blower is self contained, just needs a pulley system. they have a certain amount of lag, whereas a blower can produce boost from idle. turbos are harder on the engine as the exhaust valves run far hotter (due to the afforementioned turbo back pressure, and charge contamination from residual exhaust gas), plus the oil lives a much harder life. turbos need a turbo timer after a hard run to cool off, whereas a blown engine can be shutoff straight away. there is more...... each has it's pro's and con's. :harhar:

why? spend your money on upgrading the power first. maybe work on your driving style..... if it is a jap style diff, later (jap) ke30 centers bolt in to change to a 6" ring gear. need to change the rear diff flange part of your driveshaft with a new uni joint.

nah, just a lot less mass for the commuter to haul around. nothing feasable, although you could park a hell of a lot more of them in the city. :S that magnetic engine looks cool. i'll have one. :) can definitely see a future for them. the air powered car is interesting, still needs to be fed power to run the compressor. :D

got boost? :) more here

an electric car is not necessarily cleaner on the environment, even though the car itself generates no emmisions. you have to burn more coal at the electric powerplant to generate the extra power to charge the cells. also you have to dispose of the batteries every few years. maybe everyone should drive smaller vehicles. it is amazing looking at cars commuting, ie you have one person in say a new falcon which weighs 1700kg. now if everyone was to ride say pocket bikes....lol.

there are some fast electric cars out there. pity it costs so much for an electric converion. then you need to replace the batteries every 3 years or so. :)

knocking down the majority of the trees over the last 100 years or so hasn't helped.

probably somewhere around $300 - 400 to balance a 4k. if you keep it under 8 grand, you don't really need it.

yep

it could have quite possibly been a coincidence. usually as points get old the rubbing block wears and gradually closes the point gap. once they get to the point they no longer open the car won't run.

yea, just something intermittent. don't think it is anything major. not to worried.

haha, mine was playing up this arv. noticed it would start breaking down at revs and the charge light would flicker at the same time. stupid car, i'll have a look tomorrow.

no the z68 is the ryco equivalent of the original sized filter. you would be looking at around $20 for the genuine toyota item.

i have found a stock bottom end in good nick will be fine up to 8 grand. unless you have cam, compression, headwork, induction and exhaust systems addressed there is no point revving that hard. my last 4k made peak HP around 7500 rpm. it loved revs.

you can do that. you could always degrease it, and suck the excess water that endsu up in the plug tubes out with a big syringe, with a bit of vacuum tubing attached. check the fit of the end of the plug tubes around the spark plug threads. when they are overtightened they stretch and open up in bad cases. you may need to find a better set? the plug tube orings should be sealed with permatex No. 3 non hardening aviation gasket goo. be fairly generous and they will never leak.

sparkplug tubes have probably been overtightened at some stage. a lean condition is more likely to cause a backfire. burnt valves don't help, maybe check your valve clearances, and ignition timing?

i seriously think that "pushrods" is a typo. it should read "hydraulic lifter and rocker actuated Overhead Camshaft with two valves per cylinder". most single overhead cam engines run rockers. do a search on google "rb30 nissan holden differences". :D

pushrods...i think not. a bit of research would be in order methinks. single overhead cam more like it. it is a purely nissan engine. holden just changed it a little to make it work reliably with a turbo. the NA holden and nissan engines are the same. ACL have the same part numbers for pistons, rings, gaskets, etc. etc. the turbo engines ran slightly decompressed pistons, ran chrome rings (NA moly), the blocks had oil drillings for the turbo feed. they ran the exact same bearings as the NA models. i think the turbo version may have an uprated oil pump. the gaskets are all identical between the NA and turbo versions except for the head gasket, the turbo obviously having an uprated version. not that different to the NA engine, just reliability mods really.

think i paid just over $10 for my last ryco Z386. much the same price as a Z68.

the nissan and gmh RB30's are the same. the differences is that the gmh airbox design is not as good, so they make less power. also gmh stuffed up in their radiator design. something to do with the twin pass system in the rad core. there is a block off piece inside which can come loose, causing the water to bypass the radiator core and fry headgaskets.