Felix

you would probably have to wind in more timing or even compression to get any advantage from it.

i did a few motorkhanas. 1. no 2. maybe 7 competitive runs at around an average of 50 seconds a run. so works out to about $10 a minute if you don't have a full cams licence or club membership. you might be lucky to get a practice run or two in the morning depending on numbers, also a couple after. 3. yes i'd recommend a sump baffle for motorkhanas. last one i went to, i saw 2 engines do in bigends from oil starvation. i decided it wasn't worth it unless you have a dedicated club car.

my old 4k went a good 3 1/2 years daily driven in my car vented to the atmosphere. it was a jap motor so had a few kays on it before i modified and installed it. it had 160psi per pot compression with a cam just before i swapped it for a 5k upgrade. after i pulled it, i checked the bearings and they were still fine. i only ever changed the oil at 6 month intervals, used $14 premium auto1 oil and ryco filters. worked for me, i didn't have any problems whatsover with that engine.

couldn't be a problem with bore flexure at hi RPM's? weren't they 82mm gemini pistons? i'd be looking for a new engine builder myself.

the pcv system normally works on vacuum. if you have a vacuum guage you will note that under full throttle there is no vacuum. crankcase pressure is at its worst at full throttle, when the pcv system works the least. at full throttle the crankcase pressure pushes the vapour out, not manifold vacuum drawing it out. i had an oil leak problem when giving my old 4k an extended caning (ie, using the inbuilt rev limiter :D ). ended up it was not able to relieve crankcase pressure, and would lift the dipstick. gutting the PCV valve stopped it happening. have you ever seen the crap that ends up in a catchcan? you don't really want to introduce it to your combustion process at full piss. oil vapour increases the risk/ onset of detonation, and is the equivalent of lowering the octane rating of your fuel.

no nancy boy bling drift crap on my car. :D

i just used an old small thinners tin. i drilled a few holes in the lid and made a filter out of a bit of foam to go under the lid. took me about 10 minutes to make it. with mine i just wrapped it with foam and duct tape. it just stuffs in the corner between my radiator and washer bottle, no mountings needed. i found i had to drill the guts out of the PCV valve. it restricts flow to much at 8grand. nothing flash looking, but has worked a treat for the last 5 years or so. :D

go check out toymods. you will probably find all your questions answered there.

i bought a couple of coopers kits. not bad at all. for your first brew you get 2 1/2 cartons worth, for $70. not bad when you pay near $35 a carton normally. the taste improves with time, try to leave at least 3 weeks after bottling. with the bottles dysolve, how clean were they second time around? my missus' boss is into home brew bigtime, and he never had problems reusing plastic bottles. he quotes "cleanliness is next to godliness, when it comes to home brew". i don't have much prior experience with beer brewing, but spent a bit of time in a winery, so know how important it is to keep everything clean. i rinse all my bottles several times after finishing them with hot water, and will bleach each before the next brew. as i am on tank water, i boil or will put all my water through a water purifier. have to bottle my second batch tomorrow. will get a mid35 brew tomorrow, to go down. it is supposed to taste much the same as carlton midstrength, although i will be aiming for a bit more than 3.5% :P also have a ginger beer i will put down in my other keg, which i will be making alcoholic.

what size tyres you want to run? is it a daily driver? i have 186/60 a539s on 13x5.5" rims on both my ke15 and ke16. fit perfectly, though i had to roll the rear guards slightly on the back of the '15. can't fit my finger between the inner sidewall and the strut on the front of them. can't see you fitting anything much wider without rolling/lipping/flaring.

mmm, 6speed.

by law in queensland, the max rim width on a ke1x is 6". no idea what it is though in tasmania.

nice. lots of future potential. heaps of performance L series bits floating around. i've seen a datto 1600 at the drags run a high 13 sec quarter, using a stroked L20 and 48's.

fair enough. everyone has their own priorities, and their own sense of individuality i guess.. that is why i have a ke15, and a ke16 as drive cars. don't have to try to be different. funny watching young guys rubber neck, doing a double take if Bec and i take both cars for a drive. neither is flashy or anything, just not what you see every day.

mine does around 4 grand at 100 kays in 5th. a 4.5 diff and small diameter tyres don't help.

:D haha, i cut and pasted it from the site i got the pic of the green ke30 from. made me laugh. personally i'd rather a stock looking car that has a more rounded package, ie. power, grip, handling, braking. more fun wasting posers in their newer "more superior" cars that way. :hmm: also the cops don't even look at you.

i've got a zoom mag with a sleeper 10 second 1GGTE gemini in it. they can go pretty hard if you really want them to. i don't think a 7k-e would really be up to the task. if you spent a few bucks on one and stuck it in a lighterweight ke1x it should go ok. it would waste most commodores but probably not HSV's. a 7k-e would be around $800+ to start with. then you will want to make it faster. look at bigger valves, porting, cam, solid lifter conversion, lightening, balancing. plus induction setup (aftermarket computer, or webers). by the time you get it going harder, it will probably make too much torque for stock gearboxes to handle. then you will need to upgrade the box. by the time you do all this, you may as well upgrade to a better engine and box to start with. about the only car i would recommend sticking with a K engine is a ke1x, as a larger engine is a headf@$k to fit. any later corolla needs a conversion, there is plenty of engine bay room.

meh, add a few subs in the boot and a coupla mates in the back seat.

Looks good bro, what engine u got in it? or planed for it? dam dats an even phater as car ya need ta get a winscreen bottle in boot put pipes to da tyres a switch to the dash run the wire thru to battry or acc wire, an bling instant 0,s.

you'd be better off keeping the standard motor and lowering the car to the bumpstops (f@$king the handling).... then everyone would think it was fully sik.

i used to drink bourbon and coke for a good 10 years or so. i don't touch it anymore. it corrodes your innards as you may find out as you get older. beer is a taste you acquire. i didn't like it when i was younger.

i've got a fake woodgrain one in my ke15 in kmph.

i don't mind the jelly beans. the globes would look better on a ke35, with it's more angular styling.

could use a 4k head it to drop the CR and pump up the boost to compensate. not like you have to worry about dull off boost performance like with a turbo.

why? the body lines don't match up.