Felix

a 1G would be alright. have to weigh the same or less than the 3rzfe everyone has been going on about of late, for way less $.

4k's are alright. must have wasted a hundred or so falcadores with my old 4k. a light weight ke1x helps. a 5k is better though, easy power, don't have to rev the f@$ker. torque is good, i can do second gear takeoffs on my 20 degree driveway with my 5k. only need 2nd and 5th gear for daily driving. LOL. 5th pulls well from 30 kays.

i found it hard to give away. lol.

mmm.....beer! go Mikey. i'm drinking my first batch of home brew atm, very good. burp! LOL! stronger than the heavies i usually drink, which are 4.6%. good shit. might try more sugar next batch to make it even stronger. it is in plastic bottles so don't have to worry about glass shrapnel. :hmm:

just get the head skimmed ~$50. these days i coat head gaskets with permatex no3, around all the water galleries. i haven't had any sealing issues in a long time, ie many many years. worked well even on my mother in laws gemini which had a blown head gasket (they are WAY worse than corollas). worst bit about doing this is the heads are hard to pry off later. :hmm: 4psi boost shouldn't need o-ringing. a 9:1 CR 4K with 4psi is an effective CR of 11.4:1, definitely not over the top. if anything i would be looking at a better radiator, once you have the head sealed properly. something from a 2 liter should do well (a 1500 with 4psi boost thinks it is a 1900cc engine), maybe bigger if you up your boost later.

i think it is funny. you guys are telling redwarf who has had more motorsport experience than all of you combined, about what is a good L series engine. :D

don't you have P plate laws to limit power to weight ratio these days?

yep, as Jamie said. :D

i've seen quite a few over the years. i agree, they are extremely fugly. what were toyota thinking? they should have been bitch slapped severely. about the only thing they are good for is a disc conversion for a ke1x, ke2x...or a tacho dash conversion for a ke3x or ke55. lol.

i'm sure it goes well, and is nice to drive, but..... i don't like the styling of the new corollas. doesn't look much different to a hyundai getz. paint them white and they all look like kitchen appliances to me.

maybe find someone who specialises in metal polishing?

Fayt, nothing wrong with the jellybeans. they look like 13s? if you go wider you will more than likely need to start guard flaring on a ke1x. just buy the stickiest tyres you can for what you have.

you guys are talking about something like a moreys upper cylinder lube kit? Bec's mum has one on her immac gemini. the thing runs a white/grey exhaust pipe like in the old leaded days. seems to do an ok job. runs on vacuum though. don't know how one would work with a boosted engine.

ke1x's only go up to 99,999 miles (160 thousand kays) before they go around again.

cool, sounds like you had a lot of fun. now stick that motor in a ke10 which is around 150kgs lighter, and have even more fun. v6 commodore drivers are such bad losers. :jamie: must put my SC on. just thinking drawthru SU on around 7psi for a daily.

don't know how many of you guys have seen this: 450hp and 150mph+ from a 1000cc 4AG..... here

try what mikey did above. give yourself some more adjustment of the clutch cable. you should be able to pull the slack on the cable, count back about 5 notches on the adjustment and put the E-clip on.

have a look HERE . prices for parts aren't that bad. comparable to other newer engines.

i would think if it had weak valve springs the engine would tend to run soft in the top end, not midrange. probably more like fueling or ignition timing. nothing wrong with the old 3tgte's. just not the current flavour of the month.

the exhaust sizing is based on recommendations in one of Graham Bells books, "Performance and Tuning of New Generation Engines" (very good read). it was sized for a healthy 1300cc street engine. David Vizard in his writings, recommends the same size for similar performance/capacity minis. all i can say is it works well. it suited my last 4k perfectly. if anything it is probably getting a touch to small for my current 5k. i ran 25/25 chokes in my DCD on the 4k. think i had 50/70 idle jets, 130/135 mains, and 180/180 airs. i lost my little book i had after moving 3 times in the last 12 months. :lolcry: i can scan Vizards DCD tuning guide for you if you like. i have no idea on the BW diff centers. all my experience is with the Jap diffs. i would definately have a look at a wagon though. somebody else may know.

i would keep the standard valves. big valves are more suited to top end cams. get a 3 angle valve job, and get the valves backcut, they will probably then flow just as well as oversized items for less cost. shim the standard valve springs to have 10 thou clearance between coils at full lift (will go over 8 grand). clean up the casting marks in the head with a dremel type tool. use the 25/65 cam you mentioned, but stay at 400 thou lift max. set it up to have a compression ratio around 10:1. make sure it has a double row timing set. shim the oil pump spring 2mm. if you do the above to a healthy running engine it will cost bugger all, yet go WAY harder than a stock engine. if you start with a healthy bottom end it will cost under $400 for what i have outlined above, including valve/seat machining, a head skim, a reground cam and all gaskets, seals etc. the trick is with the headwork, supply the head dissassembled and cleaned to the machine shop. only pay for what you can't do. i'd run a 1 7/8" exhaust, with a resonator and a straight through muffler, or a single reverse flow muffler and no resonator. press bends are ok, if you get someone decent doing them. find a workshop who doesn't mind you watching them hang your exhaust. get a 3 bolt flange put in behind your extractors. for induction, your DGV is a little large for a 4k but will work OK if you drop the idle jet size. you will probably find a stock carb is quicker up to 3000-3500, but then the DGV is superior from then on. a DGV works better on a 5k as they suck harder on the carb at low revs. unfortunately they have cast in venturis. a DCD weber is a sweet carb, they have replacable venturis making them the most tunable of the weber downdrafts for varying engine combos. better induction setups would include SU's and webers/dells etc. the SU's are better on a streetable engine as they have constantly variable venturis, and deliver better economy and flexibility. the DCOE's etc. are more suited to a particular narrower powerband depending on how they are setup due to having fixed venturis. the webers will more than likely make a few extra HP at the top end at the cost of flexibility and economy down low. the webers are more suited to a top end cam, and more a race engine. to get the most out of your engine/induction/exhaust combo, fit a numerically lower diff ratio. say it had a 4.1:1, drop it to a 4.3:1. this will help keep the engine in its powerband and on cam, not to mention increasing acceleration. what a lot of people don't seem to think about is that if you fit a big cam, you should also fit a closer ratio gearset in your gearbox, to stop the engine falling off its narrower powerband between gears. hmm, well things got a bit out of hand. my guide to going alot quicker on a budget, with a well balanced package. welcome. Doug (was ke1x and previously procat_98 on oldcorollas)

LOL. to me it looks like they really wanted a mirage but couldn't afford one. you know a mirage that looks like it wants to be an evo...sorta. the only bit i liked about the bodykit was the front spoiler. it was the only part that actually suited the era of the car. i think it is the same as the one on Fooks car. body kits on cars with chrome bumpers look crap. this is a forum, so i can state my opinion. if you don't like it.... ah well.

the trispokes looked stupid, the bodykit wasn't much better, the bonnet looked crap. that poor car, at least now it has been put out of it's misery. it looked so much better when it was known as "scarlet". probably not many of you guys would remember that. this was "scarlet" before it was f@$ked up and became known as "rollie":

at the front or on top. don't put it underneath as you will be heating the incoming air to much with extractors. if you have problems putting filters on, won't you have problems bolting an airbox on? were you going to fit trumpets inside?

flipping springs, is probably not so bad in a panelvan, as they have extra helper springs, as compared to a sedan/coupe. normally the vans are to stiff in the rear for actual performance handling. they are designed to take a load. i know my ke16 wagon is way stiffer than my ke15 coupe. the wagon has a tendency to walk sideways on bumpy corners. it really needs a load in the back, then it is happy.