Felix

the one i have (ozito) goes from 8000 to 35000 RPM. don't try to run them flat out with sanding rolls or they go verrZING! find a comfortable speed and let the abrasives do the work. goggles are a must.

i think that in cities/suburbia they should double the rego on 4wd's to curb their popularity, unless: you are a member of a 4wd club, you are a tradesman and use it for business, you are a member of a car club and own a car trailer, you have some other good reason for needing one. (like owning a caravan/boat). although there are cars that can cope these days. in the country there is really no problem with them, except for idiots leaving on their spotties at night and blinding you. as for reversing and not being able to see a kid/whatever behind you, well 90% of new cars have a high bootlid or bad visability behind them. most also have bonnets that sweep away so it is hard to tell exactly where the corners of the cars are. as for special licensing, well.... i believe that any younger person who wants to own a modified car should have to take a defensive and advanced driver training course before being allowed to drive a high powered car. not 4wd related, but i think if you look at the stats more younger people off themselves through overconfidence, than people getting run over/into by 4wds.

go buy yourself a dremel moto tool copy. one that has a flexible extension. then you can reach right into the ports. get a good assortment of stones/sanding rolls/grinding bits. i found the little sanding rolls work really well, although you will go through a few on an alloy head. when they clog up spin them against a wire brush. they are best for the straightish sections. wd40 is a good lubricant and helps reduce clogging. the grinding stone things you get work ok, but seem to destroy themselves really quick. the round ones work good in shaping curves, like putting a radius on the inside of a valve seat. i also have a coursish grinding bit that fits in a drill. it is good to do the straight sections of a port, but doesn't reach very far. the best thing is not to try to open the ports up or change their shape on earlier porting attempts. you are best to just try to better what you already have. you want to remove all the factory casting marks and try to debur the ports. you don't need them to be perfectly smooth, although it isn't such a bad thing on the exhaust ports as it helps to reduce carbon buildup.

:S

yes i agree Jamie, street machine isn't like it once was. it should be street driven to qualify. the look of the ke30 in question is more late 90's - early noughties when the retrotech look really took off. not current. i have heaps, ie boxes and boxes of car mags (fast 4s, hot 4's, street machine, etc.) from the early 90's through to around 2000 or so when i stopped buying/collecting them. they were all much better when they concentrated on the older cars.

i've got a couple of books by David Vizard and A. Graham Bell. excellent books. if you read into them you will see that there is way more to head flow than simply hogging out the ports and whacking in the biggest valves you can find. save the following link to your computer and unzip: headmods

LOL, the bumpers help tie the new and old together. if it had chrome wheels then chrome bumpers. regardless, the guy pulled off the look quite well, blending old and new. it is much better than a lot of other attempts i have seen, as it is not over the top as the current trend seems to be. now i wouldn't rate that ke30 way up high in my list of favourite cars or anything. ie, i prefer the look of the drag ke30 2 door that is for sale on ebay (even without the driveline)...simple standard looking clean body work, nice era specific wheels. nothing over the top, as all the flashy crap doesn't aid performance or really add value to your car. i'd rather a car that goes fast, rather than one that looks fast. :S

what is wrong with the silver bumpers on the orange ke30? that is the retrotech look, don't you guys ever read street machine? i guess these days the bling hotwheels tuner look is in... my favourite corolla: not sure how fast it is now, but it ran a 6.42@108 in the 1/8 mile in may 2005. equates to a flat 10 over the 1/4. 3tc, turbo, webers and nitrous. not bad for old technology.

i only read the first post and the last page.... a plane relies on airspeed, not ground speed. airspeed is what creates lift.

140-150HP on twin 1 1/2" SU's....probabaly not. SU selection chart:

maybe look out for sigma turbo/gsr rims, in 15x6. like on the datto 1200 in the following pic:

on a ke30 :cool: wrong era. something like those rims Lucky had (15" cressidas?) would look even better than the trx ones.

ok, well look at that chart i posted. if you have an engine with 7.5:1 static CR on 10psi, it would have pretty much the same effective compression as a 10.0:1 static CR engine on 4psi. in general a lower compression engine on higher boost, will deliver higher power and be more detonation resistant, with a much safer tuning margin. it will be less flexible off boost, however. a higher compression engine on low boost will have more offboost performance. it will be a lot closer to the ragged edge of detonation, and will need more precise tuning to keep it safe. with modern efi it is not so much a problem these days.

sorta.... static compression ratio is as jamie said. dynamic compression is how the static compression is affected by the cam timing. the effective compression ratio, is the combination of boost coupled with your static compression ratio. below is an effective compression ratio comparison chart:

yours is pretty rare too. just remember that before you go to beserk with rims and things...

there are more sprinters than wagons.

ke10s are cool. :)

which one's are yours, and not daddy's? :)

haha, digging up an old thread for an old game. these old games remind me so much of when i was a kid at primary school. donkey kong is cool, so addictive....

the ke1x cars didn't even have a pcv system standard. they just had a dump pipe off the rear of the rocker cover to the atmosphere.

theories or actual personal experience over several years of daily driving. your choice... :)

things i think could be causing your problems: excessive timing. vacuum leaks, or to lean a mixture. distributor with sticky mechanical advance. improperly adjusted valves, or burnt exhaust valve. excessive carbon build up, ie head need decoke.

depends on how you want to set it up. if you want to hook it up to your manifold i wouldn't worry about a breather (filter) on the catch can. so you would be pretty much running a standard PCV system but with an oil separator can inline before the manifold. i didn't have any problems with a vented system in my experience over three + years of daily driving (probably 80 thousand + kays). but if you want to follow others opinions, maybe a closed circuit separator setup is best for you. maybe ask the other guys what exact setup they ran, and how many kays they put on their engines to justify their claims....

why worry. 1ggte power could probably kill you quicker than what your parents can. :) go do a driver training course or something.

don't think that would work to well. the manifold vacuum would just suck air through the catch can breather (filter).