Jordan

Eagle rods are about $500 and you can find forged pistons from Arias from about $650 delivered onwards. (you'd be buying from the US for these prices.) Cheers Jordan

why not buy that stomper 5K that's in the forsale section for $1500, it'll drop in and you'll have no bother from the boy s in blue? Cheers Jordan

if your budget is under $4000 walk away now, if it's over that then all the motors mentiond have jsut become avaliable. The CA18 is great value, but please get the head faced and a metal head gasket put in, this makes them reliable and allows you to inspect the bores and pistons. Direct fire ignition, stong gear box, good aftermarket support, racy sound. The SR sounds like ball mill but you can't deny the power potential. 4AGZE is good value again, but unless you get one form an AE101 they're getting pretty tired. ne rings, a turbo manifold and a T28 and they're more fun than a porno. Note you'll wnat to spend the $600 to buy the A-sereis to W-series gear box bell housing as you'l make a habbit out of popping T-eries gearboxes if you hammer them. The Ford V8's do sound better (I reckon it's got to do with the firing order.) It wont feel as frisky with a V8, but it will love the skids. Cheers jordan

While the 2.0L conversion does leave you with rather thin bore walls, I just threw out 2 more 2T blocks today that I kept tripping over, so finding another block isn't really an issue. What you need is: wait for it: 4AGE Will get you anywhere between 65 and 175RWkW depending on how big your budget (175RWkW cost $15,000USD on the engine alone+postage and tax from the USA or Japan.) They're great motors, light weight, respond very well to tuning, plently of parts and locl support. They sound awsome when given the beans and if you get a little adventerous you can do something like this: The partillay complete build of my 4AG. in a lightweight shell like the KE55 hardtop (coupe) it's not really the power but how you put it to groud. Since you're only a new driver, and new to the modified car scene, take my advice and that of others here. In many cases spending the same or less money on brakes and suspension will improve times on the circuit or through the hills, while makig the car more fun and enjoyable to drive. you can add power later, but power is useless if you can't put it to the ground properly or wash it off into a corner. Trust me I've got a TA22 with a 150RWkW CA18DET running kings and stock brakes. THe kings are gayer than this guy (note they were on the car when I bought it) and a new set of brake pags lasted less then an hour on the track. When I bought the car it also had 13x7 kidney mags with 235/50R13's which had so much tyre wall flex that the car wa unsafe to drive hard. These have been replaced with 15x8" rims for the street running 195(or 205)/50R15's or 14"x6 rims running 195/60R14 semi slicks for the track. Cheers Jordan P.S: Stock big port 4AGE (maybe with a rebuild) with a T50 box and a few dollars on sus and brakes will have a very tidy and enjoyable package that'll keep the boys in blue happy.

why nout use a 4cyl, since they're 2/3's the length. when you can buy a 4cyl 2.7L 3RZ-FE and strap on a turbo for shits and giggles (ok it might cost a few bob.) The point is there's no need to go to a 6cyl when a 4pot 2L will be just as rev happy. To answer your question yes it will fit (just, with some love) better opitions are a plently though: CA18DET 3SGTE STR20DET 2TG/3T 2.0L hybrid Cosworth YBT, or BDT(E) (few dollars to be spent here) 1UZFE (it's a V8 that weighs less than a 3SGTE) Cheers jordan

hate to say it but that's great value and totally awsome jordan

Looks tuff as nuts, will say hello during the street party. Cheers Jordan

They're very good points. W/A intercoolers are really only good in these 3 applications 1: drag racing 2: in an MR car where a front mount means uber lag, + you can have a monster heat exchanger at the front, to negate much of the heat soak :evil: 3: in a boat, when you've got the ocean or the river (what's left of it) at your finger tips, why not use it. With twin charging you really need 2 air charge coolers, generally a true intercooler (between the power adders) and an after cooler. with anti-lag avaliable for turbos, its just not worth the effort. Or with the money saved on a single turbo setup you could spend the rest of your budget on a better quality turbo. Cheers Jordan

If you'e looking at mini or full spools, just weld up the open centre, the result is the same. Air lockers are good but expencive Detrit lockers are odd, and engague very suddeny clutch pack (stock, 1-way, 1.5 way and 2way) best these are made for the hilux off the shelf by TRD and others :evil: best solution Torsen came in the jZA70, Lancia delta GT celica and others, very good design, never wears out Cheers jordan

^^ And I know of a project that'll never get off the ground Jordan

Sounds like your keen to get it going but remember this, only 3 cars from factory have ever been twincharged 1: Lancia Delta S4 (the group B rally monster, this had super/turbo changeover issues, but was better at low revs than the compitition) 2: Nissan's "SurperTurbo" notreally a performance car, done for efficiency? 3: VW Golf TSi much the same as the nissan setup, doesn't make much power, done for efficiency? This means that while it is technically possible, it's not really worth the effort. One way/butterfly valves opperated by diafram vacuum lines are problematic and annoying to set up, especially at change overpoints. The easyest solution is this air filter largish turbo intercooler and bov supercharger waterinjection or aftercooler + BOV Throttle plate(s) THere's no change over just more boost rocks up. Ask yourself this though why am I doing this? 1: Academic exercise, proof of concept, because I can 2: Hills thrasher, traffic light hero, fast street car 3: Circuit 4: drags 5: Rally monster Of all these possible questions only option 1: is a valid reason, and here's why. 2: for stret car, the instant respone of a surper charger is all you'll ever need in a light weight car, the speed limit is 60km/h and 110km/h. In the hills out of the corner response is important, but topend speed isn't. It's moer about breaks and handeling. so for this the supercharger or modest turbo alone are fine 3: Here is where big power matters and shows up when you don't have it. A large (300RWkW on a 4AGE) turbo works on the track as you can keep the engine on the boil (+4500RPM) so you're never dropping down into the region where the SC would be on. thus the point of a twincharger is lost. 4: Club level drag racing is all abot being consistant, not the best time. Simplisity rules the drag strip, in a dial your own drag race you will never beat a stock late model auto camery, as it'll always run the same time. For most sonsistant results a striaght SC setup works best, as it's less likey to bog down off the line. 5: you don't have enough money, and with anti-lag on turbos, twincahrging isn't worth the effort. Cheers jordan

you goin gto the practice day next saturday? Cheers jordan

what about turboing a 3RZ-FR. 2.7L of bullet proof 4Cyl goodness. Much like the 3TC, the American's have found that the 3RZ-FE takes to boost like a fish to water. Cheers Jordan

the wheel bearign appears to have failed. it sucked to be me. Jordan P.S: Have just purchased 2 TA22 Celica's for $100 so parts a plenty to fix it this weekend.

He fellas, even tough the cruise was cancelled I couldn't have made it due to mechanical failure. Was on my way home from Mallala when this happened: Cheers Jordan.

engineering reports in SA mean squat, and will continue to do so until we are required to undertake yearly/bi-yearly roadworthy's like the eastern states. It's kind of a catch 22. So most people mod their cars keep the rego up and dive sensibly. Delica/starwagon gearbox's might work, but I'm rather certain they have a 4WD transfere case attached to them. Good news is there is bound to be someone that makes a 4G63-W5X bellhousing. cheers jordan

How's it, If you've got a Twin cam 4G63 floating around go for it. They're a solid well engineered motor. As for sticking into a RWD application, do a serch on the Sigma/starion forums, it's been done plently of times so the answers will likley be there. I'm thinking a late model starion gearbox might be the go? Don't bother with engineering in Adelaide, as you'll get defected anyway. Just make it as tidy as possible, with good brakes and suspensin to match. A good option is the "Hilux 4spot/peugoet 405 disc/Corona XT130(or RT132) strut" option. Unfortunatly no E3X corolla's came with EFI, but the easyest option is to low mount a Bosh inline pump (think 910, 044.) Since the fuel tank is in the boot this isn't hard. that said adding a surge tank is always a good idea. Cheers Jordan

the few KE1X rotar convesion I've seen have all not been pretty. Huge trans tunnel mods (eg compltely cut out.) Having driven a few KE2X 13B NA rollas I can say with confidance, spend your entire budget on better suspension and brakes. On a twisting road with a 1100cc K motor you'll go faster. But if you've got your heart set. be prepaird for a long involved and costly process. If you don't have $5000 in your bank account right now don't even bother. Jordan Also Just thinking, since the KE 10/11's have about a 25L fuel tank I wouldn't expect to see any more than say 170kilometres (max) a tank. hope you enjoy filling up :)

The quad cam toyota Tron block V6's (VZ's) that came in the early/mid 90's camry's had an "S" series bellhousing, as the manual gearbox's are very sort after for use in MR2's. Point being that find and SA63 celica belhousing ($70) and then a W57/8 box and the conversion is looking very possible. Not sure if the later model Alloy block motors kept the same bellhousing bolt pattern. The inlet manifld would need attention, but nothing a pair of Porche tripple down draft weber carburetors wouldn't fix :) enjoy Jordan This thread has got me thinking, there might be something to this camery V6 idea :D

I'm now a maybe, as I'm attending the Open Practice at Mallala during the day. If I'm back in town by kickoff I'll be at the meet point. Cheers Jordan

you can also modify (turn down the front to fit 2T pully's) an easily obtainable 2Y crank to work in a 2T, instead of trying to find a 3T crank. good work on the 1G stuff :lolcry: Cheers Jordan

I've seen the old 3.8 buick in a corolla or 2, would be great to see an alloy tech in one. Jordan

don't piss around with resistors, just buy and RB20AFM or Z32 AFM, they're easy as to wire up and since everyman and his dog can remap nissan computers you can get them properly tuned. 170RWkW's (230RWHP) is very achievable on the SR20 T28's (and on the early T25G's,) They appear to be good for ~185-190RWkW max with a good tune and correct fueling. If you haven't already I'd invest in a set of RB26/7MGTE/FC3S (440/440/500 or 550cc) injectors as your current injectors will be sarting to look a little lean. When it comes to fueling it's best to play it safe. Cheers Jordan

The car has been rewired not suprisingly it took longer than expected and was still sitting in my car with a set of crimps will into the night. But alas, it's all go. Add my name to the list because I'll se you there. jordan

camry V6 engines, either the iron block VZ engines (from 2-3.3L) or the alloy block MZ (2.5-3L) they are also avaliable in RWD fromat from Prado's and Hilux's. Cheers jordan