Jordan

With the power upgrades occuring to the corona, something has to be done about the suspension, which was to say rubbish. Since I don't have a front subframe at the moment I started with the rear suspension. To my pleasent suprise RT40 coronas have 5 rear leaves (corolla's only have 4,) thus the the decision was quickley made to invert and clamp the bottom 3 leaves on top. This has the effect of flattening out the leaf stack (lowring the car) and making the stack much, much stiffer. Results are as follows: vs the new: Installed the difference is obvious, it also became apparent that the diff has now moved backwards 2cm or so. I'm yet to finish the second side, and I'll take some progress photos for the record. Tips for First timers: -clean all threads with petrol, Turps or thinners, as they will all be gungy and this makes doing them up much easier. -Use plently of grease when re-assembling (I use Lanolin as it smells pleasent,) make it all slide together so much easier, and it also makes taking it out super easy if you need to. best bit it stops squeeks -Get a buddy to help, this is the first time I've done it solo, and in the clamping stage it's much more difficult. Also you can take both sides out at the same time, therein almost halving the total time. -If any through bolts are stuck when trying to dis-assemble, use the good old block of wood and hammer trick, this will prevent the thread from being damaged. -You'll need at least 2 jacks, I prefer vertical lift jacks like scissor jacks as the don't move around. I'll also be installing some new gas dampers at the rear to make it the best it can be. Will be doing something to the front (not chopping springs) but will have to wait and see what is possible. Cheers jordan

use a 2TG, not a 3TC :P not too sure about mounts, best idea so to grab a 2T bottom end, and dummy it up and see what needs doing. Cheers Jordan

stupid question: Why not go with a 4AGE, since the mounts are already there? Jordan

1800-NOTHING-SUS Jordan

you can use a 3/4K-B manifold with a little bit of love (one's for sale in the 'for sale' section) Not as good as DHLA/PPH or DCOE, but a huge step in the right direction. Jordan

150KW's at the treads on a GTiR T28, stock injectors, just 10PSI of love, on a fresh bottom end. Cheers Jordan

Hey Trev, The manifold and carbies came with the abandon KE10 project I bought from member RKE_11. I believe they retail for around the $250 mark. if you are using solex's bust a PM over to user Rodger for a linkage kit. Cheers Jordan

I'm using a redline manifold, and a linkaged kit designed for an 18R-G (slightly modified) Cheers Jordan

2TG is deffinitly worth the extra few $$, much better engine, efi or twin solex. Cheers Jordan

131KW ain't too bad out of the old T25. mine with pod, larger exhaust and GTiR T28 made 135 on 8PSi and 150 on 10PSi, so there int eh T28. Cheers Jordan

^^Because they were designed by Nissans truck division by putting a spark plug in a Diesel motor. well not really but might as well have been. OK you got me the 910 isn't the same as a VL turbo pump, but it's near enough. -Not sure where you're getting your info about the 10A's power but after visiting various pages it appears that the 10A from factory had between 75 and 96Crank KW, well below 90KW's at the wheels. -Rotary's smooth? just like Bundy OP or 14mg smokes. -RX3/4 sumps are hard to come by cheap, but there are plently around if you want to spend $$, as are early 13B's that mount off the front cover. -You don't want to use a decomp 13b, we did for KE20ME's (Hen's) 1300 conversion and it was more trouble than it was worth, it was the wrong decision. for a carbie application, they use more fuel and make less power, like all low comprression motors that aren't force fed. -I wouldn't be taking a motor I haden't pulled apart, and rebuilt anywhere near 9500RPM, unless you're looking for trouble, especially an old rotar. Be warned old RX gear is starting to fetch good money, becuase the batteries Mazda used were rubbish and leaked, rusting up much of the chassie components. The CA is a good motor, I've got one (all be it ina TA22, not a Rolla) but others hear have them as well and they are a no fuss, rev happy motor that makes 150kWs at the treads no worries. They're easy to drive day to day, and the gear box's are so much better than the S4/5 RX7 box's. Nowhere near as notchy, fell like a Toyota W-box. Don't take this defencive response as a "I don't like Rotars" post, I do, they're great fun, but you wanted advice on a CA swap. I've driven RotaRolla's, and CAcelicas/CArollas and the CA's were always easier/less effort to drive. My CA did better than 10L/100km on the highway before I pulled the head off to get some work done. Jordan If you go CA, put in a MLS head gasket, the chump that spent $4000 on rebuilding mine with forged pistons and some other gear didn't and the stocko he put in blew 2 months after I bought the car.

Hen, to put the 13B in your mazda 1300, it would have cost close to if not more than $3000. CA conversions run at a similar budget. and like all piston motors tend to be more reliable, use less fuel and easier to drive off boost (off port.) Carbie rotars are cool, but there's soo much fiddiling to do it's not funny, how to mount the motor, what to do about the sump, will the gearbox fit in the trans tunnel, oil cooler the list goes on. Cheers Jordan

Yep Deffenitly Certified Hectic. Neil I wont discourage you from going down T25 CA turbo route, but with the work done, I'd say the slightly larger compressor wheel of the T28 (T3-60trim) with the same exhaust housing would be a better option. Therein the S14 turbo or for Ballbearing S15. 100RWkW's out of the 5K supercharged isn't a bad effort, but as you say a little dissapointing with all the work put in. That said you wont have nay trouble selling the SC14, mounts, pully's and pipe work. Be great to hear the story behind it in a members ride thread Cheers Jordan

stock CA injectros are for for 160RWkW max, the T28 should be loving it at say 12psi :P (mine made 150RWkW's on 10PSI using a GTiR turbo, same as all SR20 turbo's but with the slightly larger 0.86 exhaust housing.) enjoy, all you need now is some FC injectors and an RB airflow metre, to bring that power up to 190kW at the rear. Cheers Jordan

Bosh 910 (VL Turbro) pressure pump fed from a surge tank, just use an electrice carbie fuel pump to feed the surge tank. Of course need return lines. Need to mod the radiator in's/outs, also good idea to have it looked over and even have a triple row core stuck in ($450) Of course there's all the wiring, and other nit bits to work out as well. Upgrades suspension and brakes are basically a must. Cheers Jordan

Cheers for the supprt fellas, I've got one of those "megajolt" ignition computers with a MAP sensor built up, just waiting on the EDIS module and the trigger wheel to show up. Cheers Jordan P.: will post a write up and dyno curves once it's all together.

they do go like stink (well my stripped TA22 with a CA does) the best box is of course the CA18DET standard box.

don't rattle can the rims, they look cool as is. Jordan

repping the toyoglide Jordan

big projects take lots of time, and gennerally run overbudget, and it's very easy to lose motivation. having good financial backing helps as you can buy products pre fabricated, eg an engine. and can simply pay to have things done, cage installed, seem weld, suspension installed, wiring, etc... basically throw money at the problem and it goes away. without solid financials, where you have to do all the work it takes longer, and will drag on, if you've ogt a shed it's easy to throw a cover over it and simply forget. That's why people are saying use a stoko GZE, some GTR injectors, strap on a T28 and have some fun. There's 170RWkW's to be found reasonable easily. learn how the car behaves to large increases in power, learn how to drive such a small car with lots of power. the short wheels base make cornering difficult. Cheers Jordan let this be a lesson here

maybe 100BHP at the wheels, which is ~75RWkW's just to let you know that's becomming a fairly serios 4k at 100BHP/L Jordan

as you've probably guessed you need to get your inlet manifold cut 'n' shut to suit RWD or buy a hard to find RWD manifold. you'll also need a flywheel to replace the auto flex plate. Cheers Jordan

4K build to 130Bhp: Shot peen rods - $60each Have the crank checked, and shotpeened $191 (these 2 prices I got quoted for a 4AGE but they are both 4cly engines so the cost would be the same) Gasket kit - $180 MLS head gasket - $130 block machining (decked, 1mm over bore,) ~ $250 mild or wild cam - $300 Springs - $150 head work and port clan up - $5-700 new timing chain - $whatever it costs? New forged pistons (either high comp or low comp for turbro) - $800-900 rings/bearings - $250ish (guess) Twin solex set up - last sold on ebay for $260 or my single delorto setup for $200 inc postage or EFI Turbo setup, needing new exhaust manifold - $600, computer - $1000, most likely a new intake manifold - $500, SR20 T28 - $300 Someone to strap it together - $500 Tuning - $500 or get a turbro manifold from somewhere, strap on a T25 off a CA18DET because they're cheap, find a 1,3/4" or 2" sU carbie, and run it suck though on your standard motor. run it until it blows up, sooner or later you'll trip over another 4k, strap that in and away you go.

you got any AE82 4AC dizzy's? Cheers Jordan

Most I've seen out of an NA 13B is 180-90, and that was PP with ITB's dual fuel etc... anyway, in Adelaide everything is legal until you get defected, as there are no yearly roadworthy's. so you jsut build whatever and then drive it . jordan