Jordan

I'm chucking a 4AGE on carbies (because carbie are Sik :wink: and sound awsome :hmm: ) into a rather clean RT40 corona. Mounts are sorted, carbie linkages are sorted, exhaust is sorted, cooling is sorted, fuel is sorted, clutch is sorted (RT40's have hydro clutch from the factory :y: ) However ignition isn't sorted. I've heard rumors that you can use a 4AC dizzy, with a sleeve and all's good? is this possible, do you need anything else, an ignightor for example. Has anybody got ignition kits for carbie engines? Others have suggested a Sigma Dizzy? is anything else required? need asleeve or mounting plate? the only other thread I found was back in Feb ad didn't really offer any definative solutions. Any help would be apprecieated as this is the final piece in the puzzle. Cheers Jordan

the chaps in the states love the 3RZFE (that said they like the 22RE and the 3T way too much for my liking) and feed them monster amounts of boost. some pis and a writeup'd be great. At the end of the day your budget will dictate everyting. The CA in my TA22 is a beast, the E7X chassie is very similar so results would be similar, paulie would be able to argue that point for me. My RT40 corona is getting a 4AG on twin 40's, and I've driven rotary corolla's. Each have their stocg points, and each their weak. if you're in the easten states, legallity is a big concern due to roadworthys. rotary swaps into rolla's are now gennerally frowned upon by the occ' healt and safty people. Expect a CA18DET conversion to cost more than >$3000+ tuning+ the fact you want more and the engine can deliver more so you go looking for more. 4AGE swap will be cheaper as you can pich parts from AE71's, but remember going from carbie to EFi is a pain in the bum. Carbie 4AGE's can be done (I'm doing one,) but it's not the most trouble free approach as tunine is expencive. My Advice The reason I bought my CAA22 was because someone else ahd done all the hard work (fitting the CA18DET into a TA22shell with the EFI gear, cooler, computer, surge tank, etc...,) all I had to do was turn the key. Work out your total budget (include the saleable value of your car in this) and see what's on the market. Toymods is a great place to look. You might need to save a little, but for $5-6000 there are some great cars around. Buy someithng that is already done and save the hassle. in most cases you end up saving a whole heap of cash and best of all a whole bunch of time. Cheers Jordan

^^ is partly the reason i'm using twin Solex PPH40's on my 4AG that's going into my 1968 RT40 corona (not replacing the 2R with a 351 winsor or a 1UZ-FE for example, which would fit.) It wont be the fastest, it'll never handle great and probably use heaps of fuel, brake upgrads are limited due to front suspension design and the fact that the car is 40 years old. But boy when twin side drafts open up with a free flowing exhaust it's a grin from ear to ear. I'll be spending close to $600+ for an old guy with grey hair and some really weird instoments to tune it so that it'll provide the most enjoyment and the most reliability. best of all the conversion is completly legal, no if's or but's because the 2R was a 1.5, the 4AGE is a 1.6 and the T4X/5X chassies came with 1.9's. It's my dayly and I want it to be fun. My Track (circuit) based car the CAA22 needs close to $5/6000 worth of work on suspension and breaks before I'll even consider driving it in anger, let alone on the track. Hell my old stock ST185 GT4 was more than a match for most cars on the road, it was frightnigly fast through the Adelaide hills, too fast and the car weighed 1500kg. That had 4WD, 2LSD, and 225/45R17 rubber on it. The difference is you could use every last bit of the power, none of the 120AWkW's was wasted due to the 4WD. Cheers Jordan just for clarification BHP is measured at the flywheel (unless otherwise stated, as is kW's) however 250Kw's (at the crank) is houghly 250BHP (at the wheels) as stated

http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13990 have a read of this, there is serious time and even more serious money invested in this project, and the results still arn't in. Build something that is realistic and drivable so you can enjoy time behind the wheel rather than covered in grease. Jordan

$1000 isn't going to get much work done, but you could get a cam and springs installed and the car retuned. Jordan

if you run a 3T bottom end you'l really want aftermarket pistons as the 2TG cylinder head is of a larger volume (I'm lead to believe.) that said even if they're the same the 3T stock compression isn't really pushing the limits of what is possible. Wiseco make some quality high comp pistons for the 3T at good prices. Cheers Jordan

130RWkW's on a carbie 13b is asking a fair bit unless it's been ported. The 4AG (on twin solex PPH420's) swap into my RT40 will end up codting me over $2500 and that's getting some stuff at absolute bargin basment prices. Jordan

Unless you've already bought a GT3076R, don't they are very large on a 1.6L and even with a small turbine houseing will be rather laggy. It's do do with rotating mass. If oyu want I'll map what a 1.6L looks like on a GT30R compressor map. if you plan on making anywhere near 300RWkW's (400BHP at the wheels) you'll need to do some serious body modifications to an E20 chassie, including seam welding, cage, tub or SLR rear fenders to fit tyres wide enough, hilux diff, Stiffend rear leaves and dampers, hilux front brakes, a brake booster installed, along with a larger master cylinder, W58 or R154 box. The motor will need be rebuilt with late model GZE pistons, forged rods and a head worth >$2000 to hold on to that kind of power. And Ebay manifold will melt if you consistantly run 30Psi through it, thus you'll need to get a proper steam pipe one made. You'll need a Triple core radiator. My TA22 powerd by a CA18DET with a GTiR T28 made 150RWkW (200BHP at the wheels) on 10psi, and lit up 3rd in a straight line (ok it has 195/50R15's on 8" rims so there a little stretched.) The point is that in a car that weighs ~120kg more than a KE20, that kind of power is very potent and the TA22 has better suspension design. be realistic with what you want to do, a GT3071R wold be a better option and more streetable but still offer plenty of legs, but I'd personally recomend a GT2871R or GT2860RS. These turbos offer great response, good top end and most of all very useable power in a light car. Cheers Jordan P.S: there's a reason I don't want any more than 225RWkW's in my TA22, and that's becaseu any more is just a waste without taking the car to the next level.

there are a few 13B powered E20's in SA. Just don't get caught by the cops and you're fine since we don't have yearly roadworthy's. Member KE20ME had one that's now been parted out. Wasa very tidy job with no cuttig of the trans tunnel. If you go ahead with it though, upgrading the suspension and brakes is a big must. Cheers Jordan

Sorry I was unaware that it had been upgraded. have you got a running thread of the mods to your car? Jordan

use a 2TG, the 2T swap isn't really worth the effort on its own. especially if you have to go and buy stuff for it. Jordan

that was the ponit behind my post :wink: Jordan

the T50 is rubbish and will blow up. use the standard CA turbo box. Jordan

I'll take some more images of the radiator tomorrow with a ruler for scale. Cheers Jordan

Dam those bastards, was it insured? would still love to get a copy of your dyno sheet, email to '[email protected]' Good luck in your search Jordan

I vote for a bigger turbo, because your current dyno sheet is a discrase :y: Sorry Jordan P.S: we didn't award the 'Encouragement Dyno" Award for nothing. Dial up some boost.

does the KE70 have rack and pinion? does the T-18 have rack and pinion? if you do it, stap on a 2TG head to the 3T block. Jordan

I have a Toyoglide, it was behind the 1.5L 2R in my RT40 Corona, it was removed today and wait for it. It was rubbish there is a reason I'm doing a 4AG on twin solex conversion Jordan

they look a whole lot like this: Cheers Jordan

If it's a finance thing, Toyotacarclub.net may be able to help. Cheers Jordan

The easyest way is a suck through cabie (I 've always had a soft spot for the 2" SU) have compression around 8:1, you wont need a cooler, run 10psi or so. __________________________________________________________________ Every now and then DCOE webers show up on ebay that have been modifyed for boost, these are a great option, and you can then run a cooler. Cheers Jordan

yeah, the 4K is hectic. Jordan

DCOE/DHLA/PPH (are all much of a muchness) will beat the pants off any DGV, etc.. style weber. Cheers jordan

that's good buying. Jordan

does anybody know how much these sold for? Cheers Jordan