Jordan

I'm been looking for that piece of information for ages. Cheers Jordan

Note: the cooler kit is designed to fit the T25, T25G and T28 in it's standard position. Cheers Jordan

I've got the old intercooler kit from my TA22 that'll fit nicely into your KE55 for a CA18DET. Also have a modified TA22 radiator (same as ke30/55) for a CA18DET. Cheers Jordan

enter toyoshow, and toss your car on the dyno. That'll give you a good idea. The most accurate dyno in the state is the one at Regency Tafe, but the public can't run on that one :fuzz: Cheers Jordan

I'll have a chat with the ToyoShow commity about displaying the cooper race cars, There shouldn't be a problem, but it's likley there would be a fee attacehed per car as running the event isn't a cheap exercise and if your officially part of the show then you're covered by our insurance, and the pubilc is covered on the parklands if the trip and cut themselves on your cars (you know how it is.) Cheers Jordan P.S: would be great to see the 3STGE one on the Dyno without it restrictor in place :fuzz:

love the wheels on the car, but these have got me thinking. size and offset? price? full set or just 2? Cheers Jordan

can the 7A-FTE beat the 150RWkW that my ca18 made last year on it's death bed. However it's making a comeback worth of Lazareth to defend it's 4Cylinder crown with an ace up it's sleeve: Jordan

131RWkW on a stock looking 2TG = worlds most generous Dynometer. Cheers Jordan

Camery V6 either the iron block 3VZ-FE or it's alloy sister the 1MZ-FE. Both are 3.0L 60degree V6's that bolt up to S-Series bellhousings as found in the SA63 celica, (so you can attach a W55/7/8 gearbox.) Cheers Jordan

the new "no dirty cars clause" was because of 3 particular entrants last year. It's a show 'n' shine people, you might as well present your pride and joy as best as you can. Cheers Jordan

I'm there, but as part of Toyotacarclub.net (the club organising the event,) Would be great to see the Rolaclub guys out in force again as there are some real classics amungst the members here. We've got better prizes than last year, and the cruise route has been shortned as there were some well founded complaints after last years mamoth drive. See you all there in ealy Feb Jordan

That RA28 shell was blasted with recycled copper slag. Other mediums: Quarts (sand of varing grits) Soda Glass Plastic beads Nut shells etc... can be used to good effect on delicate items, as heat can be an issue. That said, I've never had issues with pannels warping due to getting too hot, and the only mediums I've ever had used on pannels have been garnet and copper slag. It costs between $300-600 (for the $600 rage you'd be expecting to have primer sprayed on the shell as well) for a whole car depending on who you use, how you pay and how much is written on the books. When you consider how long it takes and how nasty a substance paint stripper is, as well as using a wire wheel and all the sanding it works about square. Where we get cars done it's a same day service. for me th answer is simple, since the blasted finish is so so good and you don't ahve to deal with paint stripper. You don't even need to bother with rust converter as all the rust is taken out with the basting service :dance: The best bit with blasting is that it gets into all the areas that you can't with hand sanding. Cheers Jordan P.S: I'm not a pannel beater or abrasive blaster (actually a Mining Ventilation Engineer,) though I have been involved in the spraying of over 5 cars (all of which had various amounts of blasing done to various pannels (mainly bonnets, boots and front guards.) From my personal experience it seems the best way to go.

Just read the whole thread, and it looks like a mighty task. Honestly don't bother with paint stripper, all it does is make a mess, if you want to do it properly take it to an abrasive blaster (sand blaster) and get them to go to town. The finish left by blasting is exteremly good for painting on and leaves no rust. Here are some pics of a frieds RA28 that was blasted: Before After Blasting also give you a very clean surface to weld onto. Good luck Jordan

I'd be keen to have a read of the "ReadMe" file you wrote about putting the engine in. Sounds like it's coming right along Jordan

Corona/Pug/Hilux conversion could be possible? You'll be replacing the rear diff anyway, so why not swap in a R31 one, discs and all? Cheers Jordan

TO4Z's are made by Garrett for themselves and for HKS. not sure what model that one is. In any event you must be looking for serious grunt to feel that the GT3582R (HKS GT3040R equilivent) is too small. Loveing the BP trurbo idea, as most jsut stick with a large extend portt. Bring it to Toyota Nationals in Dubbo over easter :y: Cheers Jordan

Looks rahter tidy :y: To curb any further rust, run a bead of silicone rubber around the front and rear windscreen seals. The 5K was locally delivered in the early Lite-Ace vans, so there's no need to send one across the Tasmin. I love this shape Rolla, had 2 nad both have since died, can't wait to get one like the one you've picked up. One worth holding on to. Enjoy Jordan

A Tidy 4AGE swap into a E1X chassie is hard to beat as a tuff streeter. The 2TG is a monster, it's about as big as you could make a 1600cc, getting the carbies to fit in the engine bay without hitting anything would be a huge effort. Either go to town on a 5K, (buy one of the packages in the forsale section, there is real value there) or RWD 4AGE, rebuild with OEM replacement small port pistons (higher compression), metal head gasket, and look forward to years of trouble free motoring offeirng about 70-76RWkW. Cheers Jordan

if you're running a turbo, you'd be running aftermarket computer. So you'd be wiring in your own loom, so you can poach sensors form any motor :y: Cheers Jordan

I don't know if you've sorted out a suitable radiator. If not, look into using the old volvo sedan radiators. The V6 ones are alloy (others are copper) and they fit very nicely into the front of the E50 corollas. That's what I'm running in my CA18det powered TA22. And don't forget, if you're runing cams designed for solid pivots, to buy solid lifter (pivots as they're called in the SR20, unless you've got a GTIR head :y: ) Looking like a great project Jordan

You can buy a real good set of Alpha/Numeric metal stamps form your local hardware store for not much ;) Other great conversions are: buy a 2T-G, 1589cc, a factory option in Japan and standard equiptment in the USA and europe (will the 2T-C was,) (but not any 2TG,) Find yourself a 3TC crank (78mm stroke vs. 70mm) and a set of aftermarket pistons with a bore of 89mm (up from 85mm.) Since all T series bottom ends are the same you can fit the 3T crank with little to no work, and retain the 2TXXXXXXX engine number. However the new motor now has a capasity of 1941cc or a little under 2L. This should be legal as the 2T-C/B/G's were all placed in the e50 and e30 series corolla's. This (unlike the 1500cc 5K) is actually a direct factory replacement, and there is no shortage of documentation to prove it. Enjoy Jordan P.S: or just buy a TE37 :y:

or simply change the engine and don't tell anybody, South Aussie spec :lolcry: above options are also good. or: claim (if you ever get pulled over) that that's the engine you bought the car with, say you know very little about cars and that it's the way it's always been. Or Just say it's the "standard replaceemnt motor" as the 4K is nolonger avaliable :fuzz: Cheers Jordan

5k's I'm KE55's go awesome :lolcry: Cheers Jordan

All T50's are less the same, just swap from A to T series bellhousings if you get one out of an AE71. TA22 box is the best source for T-series bellhousings attached to T50 gear boxes JOrdan

Cope head gasket are for preteners. Go Multi layered steel, they can e had for arun $150 locally. Jordan