ke70dave

hey fellas i need some ideas on my poor little 4k. now not only does my 4k go as fast as a rock, it uses stacks of fuel!! by stacks i mean 10$ (so like 8L) gives me around 60k's before the fuel light turns on ok specs of the engine -150psi all 4 cylinders -3k carby, so no emissions stuff -new sparkplugs a few months ago along with a new coil -new fuel filter and air filter a fair while ago, could prolly do a with a new air filter the engine runs perfectly fine, but just uses so much fuel :D i have played with the mixture screw, i basically just screwed it IN till it ran like crap, and screwed it out a little (just at idle) is this a good thing to do? any help would be greatly appreciated.

hey fellas have not updated for a while, but we have shiny-ness!! front one was easy as to put on , just had to drill some new holes, havent finished mounting the rear one yet, hopefully this week, tell me what you think!

well this thread went to crap pretty fast. alomst finished a ca18det into my mates ae86, bloody thing wont start...but thats another problem for the diff he used a tarago diff, got it modified to fit in the sprinter, cost about 800 to get it to that stage. there apparently is a lsd centre that fits into the housing, do not quote me on this, but i think it was a "Detroit centre" or something, they put them in 4wd's? i think. anayway, i think hilux or torago rear end is the only way to go with these engines, although if you are content with a locker (note, lockers are baaaaddd) then I'm told that a borge warner diff is actually pretty strong. but like has been said, you will prolly have to replace it often..ish. shofter location moves back about 15cm or so, with ca18 box (rb20 box bolts up, and puts the shifter in the original position, but rb20 box is very expensive)

i don't know to much about compressing springs sorry, i guess you just take them to an engineering place or soemthign and get them to compress them, i assume they heat them up as well? as for cutting springs, it is kinda dodgy, but not as dodgy as everyone makes out as long as you have short stroke shocks to keep the springs captive. I'm not sure on your level of knowledege, but a spring being captive means that if you pick the car up by the chassis, and the wheels drop down, the springs stay "stuck" in the car, they are being held in by the shocks. uncaptive springs are particually dangerous (too long of shocks and the wheels drop down to far), as if you go over a large bump, the spring might fall off its proper spot, or even worse fall out of the car (never heard of this actually happenin, but it is possible. ive heard of springs falling off the seats a fair bit though). so if you get some shorter/stiffer springs, and you cut them a little bit, it shoudl be fine as long as you get new shocks that keep the springs captive. also note that when you cut springs the spring rate is increased slightly (ie will be stiffer ride) is this any help to you?

thats the idea :D the front lights owe me $40:P so almost as good as the genuine article, and not 500$ :lol: just took car for drive, and theres a knock in the rear somewhere, thinking my 4-link bushes might be stuffed, as theres not much else that can make a nocking noise that i havent replaced.... ahh never a dull moment with corollas! :y: anyone got any input on what colour i should paint the surrounds, as the matt black i put on is looking a bit sad, i was thinking a really dark silver?

thanks for the comment mate, umm not too much hard work, its all custom though, had to hack it a fair bit to make them fit, its all held in with srips of aluminium which are bolted. good thing is the mounting of the main bracket doesnt have to be exactly perfect as you can adjust the individual beams a fair bit heres another pic also bit of an update, thanks to Matt (little red spirit) i shoudl be getting a T18 front bumper on the weekend, i also saw some ke30 bumpers at the wreckers that looked pretty good, so might get them on wednesday, and use the ones that look the best :y:

i mostly agree with you on that one, I'm of the oppinion that most brand new springs will be jsut as good, but i think the difference comes in with age. ie will the spring still be 8kg in 2 yrs time? i have some falcon springs in my car, picked them up cheap from the wreckers, and they are completely rooted (i never thought i would find "broken" spring) but i did. they appear to be really stiff (when you push on the back of car), but whenever you hit a bump they compress like crazy, and thus make an uncomfortable ride. so yeah in the short term all springs are the same, but in the long term what will they be like... (am i talking crap?) as for shocks, i got some KYB excel g shocks brand new (they are from a commondore wagon) so they are shortstroke and quite stiff, this is for the rear, and they seem to do the job pretty well i dunno about the front sorry, as ive just got coilovers

cheers guys, and yes its just a boring old 4k at the moment, nothing special, not worth the pixels to display the pics.

thanks matt! its coming along nicely heres some pics of the front end (mostly mechanical bling:P) its got CA18 S13 brakes, you can see my stock brakes in this pic sorry if the pics are to big, i think i forgot to resize

well gday guys, i been a registered user on here for a long time, browse alot, but hardly ever post. thought id show you my lil ke70 project car/daily driver started out as a dodgy white slanty fronted ke70. current mods -flat front conversion -corona quad lights, with surrounds -garden edging lip -central locking/cd player -thermo fan (with uber temperature controller thing) -tacho dash -s13 front end conversion, with JIC coiloveres (With way to stiff springs) -holden commonodore shocks in the rear with cut falcon springs -whiteline adjustable panhard rod mods for the future obviously it needs a paint job so thats on the list, then hopefully a 4age soon after that (ive already got quite a few parts) hope you like my car guys :y: started like this

eng1000 is the crappiest subject ever, i got a 6 though!! but i got stuck with this stupid project about damascus swords....thats right swords.... I'm about to start 3rd year at UQ, its getting crazy now....need to work alot.... ohh and also start working as soon as you start uni, its very tempting to leave it to the last minute, but don't do it...ive learnt from experience uni is actually very "easy" if you do work continually through the semester good luck mate :jamie:

if only he had put that much effort into making it properly......can you imagine a 4age that had that much effort put in? *droool*

yeah ive just started me ke70 bulid up from the ground, i don't think ill be goin to the extremes like you have, but you never know... yeah i really gota learn how to weld, ive managed to weld a plate in to fill up a decent sized rust hole..but man it was dodgy:P i was using a cheapy mig welder (one when you have to clamp the thing onto the metal so that it arcs arcross and welds...) i think thats mig. is that what you use? and i really like this helmet idea, that was another thing that drives me nuts, you flick that helmet down and you can't see nothin!! can you explain this electric helmet thing a little?

i jsut had a read through your work for first time, unbelievable!!! your workmanship is 2nd too none, its awesome to see someone just giving it a go, and not stopping till you have a solution, congrats man :ninja:

i hear what your saying about the possible need for a timer circuit, but as others have said, unless you somehow manage to drain the surge tank, and then emediatly turn off your engine, it shouldnt be an issue? other option is to have the lift pump run off the ignitino, and the main fuel pump run off the ECU output thing, cause i know that when i start my car i have it in ign for a few secs and then start it, just a thought? of course have some way of making sure that the fuel pump turns off if you crash etc

hmm well i got it goin today, and goin pretty well, turns out the idle mixture screw was actually missing alltogether....which would explain it

alrighty...now to make a complete idiot out of myself which screw is which :wink: i can only see 2 screwes on the carby i tried screwing (haha get it?) around with the pink screw in that pic, i screwed it in, it appeared to help the situation...but i really didnt know what i was doin

gday guys, ive been on here a while thought i would sign up, cuase from what i read you guys know your stuff!! basically ive got a ke70, 4kc engine, with a 3kc carby on it, and it will not idle and splutters at low revs the reason i put the 3kc carby on there is that i was told it was the same as a 4kc one except it had no emissions stuff. i hooked up all the vac lines exact same as they were on the 3kc that i got the carby from (all 3 of them....) basically the engine runs fine if you got your foot on the accel (ie high revs), but as soon as you take it off it just dies, like you have just turned it off with the key... i have not been able to take it for a drive, so i don't know how it performs under load... ive mucked around with the idle screw and didnt get much progress... I'm not exactly sure how to explain it, i hope ive given enough information i have done new coil, adjusted points and proved ignition is all working, cleaned out carby with that spray in carby cleaner thankyou in advance!