ke70dave

a belt part number is its description eg --> 5pk460 = 5 ribbed belt 460mm long. so count how many ribs you need measure how long you need it (peice of string and a ruler) head down to repco and buy some new belts celebrate with a slurpee

its pretty easy man http://www.yotarepair.com/4A-GEtimingbelt.html follow the later half of that if you get really stuck I'm only in wynnum so can prolly come out, but theres not alot to it! as for the dizzy, once you have the timing gears all lined up on the dots, point the dizzy so the rotor cap is pointing as close to spark plug lead 1 as you can, keep in mind that when you put the dizzy in the rotor cap will rotate so you need to account for that (put it slightly off so it when it spins in it lines up) if your getting backfires your getting very close! jsut need to fiddle with the dizzy position. move it one tooth at a time and if its getting worse your moving it the wrong way! btw FWD or RWD, as RWD is much easier to work on:P

less than one of those bottles of coolant you buy for $10 at supercheap. so less than 5L? why do you ask

hey mate, just read your whole thread! its absolutely awesome what your doin. good to see the car being used so often as well. those race tracks look like fun to drive on!

damnit as soon as i saw this thread i wanted to post some pics of buckets!!! but you guys beat me to it..... in general anythign that bolts into ae86 will fit into a ke70 with very minimal mods if any (aftermarket jobs that is) anything else get ya welder out.

there isnt much to it mate, but it is going to require you to have a go youreslf.... also next time you ask a Q, provide as much information as possible..... starting with: when the problem started, how it started, things you have tried to fix it, extra info that might be of importance etc. initially check your high beam relay, will be located in the engine bay fuse box. there will prolly be a fuse somewhere as well, so look for that if they are ok, time to dig deaper. take off the plastic cover things around your steering column out of the end of the indicator stalk there is 3 wires, these wires control the head lights. they are very small thin wires and they will most likey be perished. on my car all 3 of these wires perished and none of my headlights worked, i replaced these wires and have worked perfectly since. good luck!

hey mate i helped a mate put a ca18de + t into an ae86 we got the kaizen garage mounts, but that wont work in your ke35/55. so your gonna need to get custom made engine and gbox mounts. if you got a mate with a welder it wont take much to make them. the kaizen mounts were just a few peices of metal welded together on the right angle, not much do it really. tailshaft: cost my mate 350 i think, for a single peice tailshaft with brand new uni joints at either end, differential: (you are goin to need a new diff), most exy part, he used a yr22 torago diff ($350) got it modified by the pros ($350) again, he also got a rose jointed rear end (bout 350$ again, not entirely needed though). fuel system: 2 pumps, surge tank, new line (8mm is the way to go), allow $300 intercooler piping: we made our own, out of scraps of old piping out of mates nissans, but if your goin to get it made by a pro, be prepared to pay 600 or so, even more. exhaust: think he jsut got 3" straight through, with a cat, like 400$ i think thats about it to get the engine sitting in the car. now onto the engine ca18de, you say you have one? if so think it cost like 400 for us turbo and manifold: 2nd hand off someone, allow prolly 250-300, though you can get bargains from time to time, but you want a decent condition one. your gonna need the ecu/loom/injectors off a turbo model, prolly allow 300 again for purchase, and another 150 or so for cleaning and flow testing injectors. you will need them cleaned. and someone to wire it up, got beerhead off here to do it for us, think it was 250 or so, great guy beerhead! top workmanship too right now on to the fun bit. we blew up 2 CA18de's with this setup. reason? REVS!!!! get a rev limiter asap, ca18's don't have a stock rev limit, and they sure rev like hell with boost and a light car. you shoudl really get an aftermarkte ecu, cuase with the raised compression of the ca18de all the timing will be out. but it does work well with the stocko ecu, and it absolutely haulss ass too. damn fast. but yeah to do it properly id get an aftermarket ecu. good luck mate

thanks for the replies guys. and adam really like your car hey!

condtion wise: struts are struts, not alot to them as long as they arent bent expect to pay few hundred bucks for complete struts with ADM disc (solid)/calipers. if the calipers are leaking a bit, a rebuild kit is prolly $80 or so. if you look at my members ride thread (search ke70dave in the members car section) I'm running said shocks with the cut down falcons, my 195/50/r15 tyres are slightly tucked under the rear arches. i think lowest point on the car is bout 130/140mm...new exhaust might be a tad lower not sure. also keep in mind that it is not the shocks that determine the ride height, it is the springs. the shocks just determine the extremeties that the ride height can travel. maximum and minimum compression/extension. so as long as the shocks are short enough to allow the wheels to move towards the car enough, but also long enough so that they can move away from the car (called "droop") then you should be fine. you don't want your shocks topping out on extension, or bottoming out on compression, or it will damage them and your car will handle like poo!

nah sierra shocks are rubbish, waaaayyyy to short! and hes only dropping 2.5" or whatever. to thread starter: your gonna have to read more.... head over to ae86drivingclub.com, check out the tech articles it depends how far you want to go, if you just want a bit lower, get some king springs and be done with it. if you actually want decent suspension your goin to need short stroke shocks and springs all round. unfortunately ke70 front struts do not accomodate for short stroke shocks, so you need to upgrade them first. front: getting some ae86 complete struts will give you the ability to get some decent short stroke shocks, pluss you will get a slight upgrade. and your current wheels will fit on. ae86 will also allow you to get jdm vented discs and apropriate calipers for more brake upgrade (all this will bolt into your ke70 no problems) get some decent shocks (brand new get the part number from ae86drivingclub tech articles) get some decent springs, from one of the sponsours around. research waht spring rate you think you will like, or find people to take you for a drive in their car so you get the idea. you can go all out and buy some adjustable coilovers, but they are gonna cost ya, and might not be worth it if your not gonna be fiddling with the settings everyday. while your up the front you can get a bit more camber by buying some longer control arms (some sort of corona i beilve) or do it 'properly' by aquiring some adjustable camber plates. rear: any sort of stiffer spring is good here, cut falcon AU springs work (that what i got). youll need some better shock absorbers too. there is a commondore shock part number 343113 that i use that is pretty good. short stroke and reasonable stiff. youll need an adjustable pan hard rod as well so you can keep your diff in the middle. thats about all you need for the rear to get you started and your goin to have to cut your rear bump stops off. good luck

well its been a while..... but i bring updates of the cool kind! on the australia day weekend me and my mate started putting in the 4age. friday night: rip appart dash, remove ke70 pedal box, half install ae71 box, disconnect half of 4k engine. sleep at midnight. saturday: 4k came out in about the first hour, drilled hole for ae71 pedal box, fitted clutch master and clutch line, changed crossmember to ae71, plonked in 4age. sick of it by this stage so called it a day! sunday: fitted alternator, measured up the belt and went and bought it. half put in the loom. drove to ipswitch to get a ae71 gbox xmember. church time, enough of corolla gave up for the day. monday (australia day): bolted vl turbo fuel pump to car connected pipes. beerhead comes round about midday and does a crack of a job with the wiring, hes good this bloke! we get the wiring sorted by about 6pm. time to see if it starts. get a bit of a cough out of it, fix timing, get it to run for the first time at around 9pm. time to call it a day. at this stage I'm thinking that i may have just converted my ke70 to 4age in 4 days. but it was not to be. get home from work on tuesday....and find THE SUMP IS FULL OF WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm extremely annoyed at this point in time.....so i leave it for a few days. by thursday the head is off and time to inspect the damage. head gasket is VERY soggy so that isnt good. long story short, took the head down to the machinist and he checks it out, it is in good order but needs a few new valves. all up 300$ including a shave to make it nice and clean. best part is its brand new looking! nice and shiny from the acid clean. head is back by the following friday. plonk it back on with a standard gasket and its all good. got it towed to the exhaust shop about a week later, got me 2.25" with a resonator, new cat and a muffler out the back. has a nice note to it, but its a tad loud....not really raspy though which is good! teething problems are always present with these things, needed to get my injectors cleaned and some new spark plugs. also needed a new tps but i had a spare. also had some mega vacuum leaks but fixed them up. and so this is the completed product! and hese a pic of the exhaust, got a cool little dump pipe lookin thing, and the exhaust man painted the whole thing black which is quite cool too. the lowest part of the whole car is now the bottom of the secondaries on the stock jdm extractors so i think thats pretty good! i have since got it mod plated by a mate from church (nice and easy hehe) and am currently organising insurance that will hopefully cover all these mods!! also ive just realised i havent put up any pics of my new lip that i got from little red spirit! cheers again matt! and heres about the only pic i can find of the rear of the car with the new exhaust, pretty "stealth" id say, can't see crap! so overall I'm extremely happy with the 4age, its like a different car to drive now, so much fun!! as for future plans: -really need some new seats to hold me in....stock ke seats suck! -also really need an LSD! might get mr rudd to pay for one with his free money. -need to fit my strut brace -need to get a full nolathane? bush kit,tighten everything up! -woudl like to clean up the interiour a bit, get a non cracked dash, and possibly some new carpet. i bought some el cheapo dark blue seat covers yesty, makes it look a bit nicer! but mostly i just want to DRIVE!!!!!!! went for a hlls drive last weekend, stacks of fun, woudl like to enter some sprints maybe? or hill climbs..i dunno....something fun anyway. will give this drifting a go once i get a lsd i reckon. anyway this is one epic post...hope ya like the blue car!

thought you said you were on a budget mate? how much you think an xr6 motor is gonna cost to start with? unless you can weld well enough to make, firewall mods (if its only for club at least move the v6 back), custom tailshaft, custom engine mounts, custom everything else! its gonna be VERY expensive. and a v6 on carby? prolly easier just to wire up the efi. your gonna need some pretty expensive carbys to get it running well, and then you gota pay for someone to tune them...and thats not cheap either. and 120kgs is a whole lot more than you think. stocko ke70 is like 1000kg, so your looking at adding an aditional 10%+ to the car (since i think ke is less than 1000kg but will use it to be safe). though i think youll find a bare xr6 motor will prolly fall into the 100-120kg mark (not aditional) so thats prolly an aditional 60kg or something over a 4k. v6 is a better choice than a v8 as its shorter and you can get most of it positioned nicely, but still.....for all that effort, prolly just better to get a 4agze or something. but yeah as you asked for my oppion i think a v6 is a bad choice, the good thing about these light corollas is exactly that...light and nimble, i think a chunky v6 will be detromental unfortunately especaily if you intend on using it for rally sport which requires a stack of car control. if it was a burnout car id say go for it. but id say put in a v8 then! good luck on whatever you do though. and post pics too.

same car as this dude about 1975 i belive ive got a members ride thats prolly 10pages back by now, theres some pics on how i did it in there. if you need any help give me a buzz and i can explain a bit if you like.

not ta22, but xt114? corona lights and surrounds. brackets made up to fit, plastic surrounds hacked to fit. total cost $20 i reckon it looks alright, not perfect, but certainly not 300$ for what jap lights are!!!

what i get annoyed at is when people get annoyed at being caught when they are clearly in the wrong. you didnt have the p-plates on, the law sais you have to have them on, you got caught, you suffer the consequences. sucked in? people who run red lights also annoy me, mainly cause one day they are gonna take out either me, or someone i care about. so to the guy that said he hated red light cameras...also sucked in! and quit running red lights and it wont be a problem? that is all!

ah thanks mate will hit them up at repco to see what the deal is i ended up finding a guy with one from the forums, so worked out well still a mystery as to the wrong part numbers though... thanks for your efforts mystic, that website is pretty neat hey, will keep that book marked for sure!

problem is, they are using the same catalogue that I'm using....and the part number is listed wrong. so I'm wondering if anyone has the right part number. if you have a toyota part number that woudl be handy, as the website has a cross reference section :)

gday fellow rwd toyota loving enthusiasts. right quick question for you guys who have purchased a new gearbox crossmember rubber mount for your T50 box (either in a ae71 or 86) well first off the problem...my t50 didnt come with one! so i figured order on through repco i got a "kelpro" branded one for like 30$, code MT8019. it looks like this yep totally wrong part since i have to bolt it to this now the problem is the kelpro website lists this part number for both the ae71 and the ae86. both 4ac engines. you can look it up on http://www.motospecs.com.au, but youll need to sign up. so what the dickens fellas???? anyone ordered one? there is a cusco one on ebay for about 115$, so worst case i can get one of them, but id rather just get a cheapy for the time being. this is what it should look like... (this is the cusco one) sorry for the long post.

yeah you are correct. in this case though so long as you get a wheel alignemnt after you change anything you will be fine. dropping the car on a ke gives it a bit of toe in i think.....and will increase any castor that is present, only minor though. but its a good idea to get a wheel alignment.

so i can't be stuffed clicking on all those links.... but... if you want to lower your car properly you need to run a "short stroke shockabsorber", so that the wheels are kept closer to the body on maximum extension. this also ensures that the shorter (lower) springs are kept captive. the reason ke70 struts are useless is that they are too small in diameter for any decent shock absorber to fit. ke70 is like 49mm or something and ae86 is 52mm i think, something like that. either way nothing good can fit inside a ke70 shock tube. there is problly an ok shock available for the ke70 strut but it wont be short stroke, and thus no good to you. the other disadvantage is that there is no easily available brake upgrade available for ke70 struts. if you get ae86 struts you can get the vented discs and calipers off a jdm ae86 and bolt them right on. the only way to enusre that your springs are captive is to have short stroke shocks. there are various threads around on how to make decent suspension out of ae86 struts. look on ae86drivingclub.com.au as well. in response to "Also, will lowering my car affect any other suspension properties in an adverse way? I've read a lot about camber and castor... and XT130 LCAs vs GH/GE sigma LCAs to achieve negative camber and all that stuff... will I need to touch on any of that stuff just because I upgraded shocks/springs?" i dunno what youve read about castor and camber but its not related to shocks and springs. longer LCA's are just another upgrade that people do to get a bit of camber if they want it. there are no "have to's" when choosing suspension "upgrades", its personal preference. i think more research is in order! and don't just put on upgrades cause "thats what everyone does", some of the "upgrades" that people do suck.....and become quite impracticle. look into "roll centre adjusters" as these are considered a "must have item" for lowerd ke70/ae86's.

connect it to a wire that has +12V when the ignition is turned on its there so that if someone manages to get inside and turn the key it will alarm. essentially you coudl do it like you say to something that "sends a charge" when you try and start it, but that means that the alarm will only sound when they try and start it, so essentially they could push start it since turning on the ignition wont alarm it. just connect it straight to your ignition barrell on the "IGN" terminal (solder it on with whatever is there). jsut use a multi meter and chech which one it is.

I'm sure it can be made to fit... but why on earth would you want 165 tyres??? skinny as get better wheels that fit with 195's, so you can actually....you know...grip? Boost+k: well done on the guard flaring, that looks spotless!! btw what is a "dolly" when you say "dolly and hammer"

did you even read the instructions that came with it? get a multimeter and a soldering iron handy its 4 wires man, not rocket science. admitedly it will be a challenge if you are not electircally minded, but you have to start somewhere and a keyboard and mouse isnt going to help you in this case. you got a ) +12v with ignition on, take it straight off your key barell where it sais "IGN" b ) ground, put a ring on it and bolt it to a ground bolt somewhere c ) sender wire, this goes straight on the end of your sender, should be a push on spade connector d ) illumination, find a bulb on the back of your dash that lights up when you put your lights on (cigarette lighter is what i used) and put the wire onto somewhere that gets +12V if its tight to go in its prolly the wrong thread, take it down to repco and get an adaptor that fits your thread. ps caliber guages suck. you shoulda got a VDO one so you can get the proper fittings straight out of the catalogue behind the desk at repco. but even though caliber sucks they should be easy enough to fit. ps. what the hell is trisco? don't they make christmas hampers?

hey man, sounds like your having a bit of fun with your temperature... my stocko ke70 guage was doin the same as yours, all over the place and not really telling me anything. the problem is the guages and senders and wiring in these cars is like 30yrs old, and since they run on resistnace they can get out of accuracy easily by crappy connectinos and wiring. the only real way to get an accurate reading is to go aftermarket, the stocko guage doenst really tell you anything it just sais "hot" or "cold", and knowone knows what hot or cold is. so what i did...was went to repco ordered in a VDO temperature guage and while i was there i ordered a sender to go with it. guage was about $50 and the sender around 25$ take down your old sender and get them to match the thread so it will bolt straight in, they should be the same on all models but take it just to make sure. if your worried about destroying your ke interiour just do what i did, take out your guage cluster and do something simliar to this.... nice and stocko looking and the VDO guages have green lights in them so the guage looks almost identicle to the speedo/tacho at night. i know you don't wanna do it, but its the only way to get a decent reading of temperature :(

yeah its possible to get away with it, but as you say its stinking low. i have jic base adjustble ones, but apparnetly JIC are short in general I'm at the top of the adjustment on the base, and prolly 2/3 up the thread on the spring seat, and the crossmember is about 140mm off the ground alternatively my mate has same setup as me but with, KEI OFFICE coilovers. his are so damn long, but this allows for heaps more "Droop" or how much the wheels can drop away from the chassis, which makes thing way more comfortable.