ke70dave

same car as this dude about 1975 i belive ive got a members ride thats prolly 10pages back by now, theres some pics on how i did it in there. if you need any help give me a buzz and i can explain a bit if you like.

not ta22, but xt114? corona lights and surrounds. brackets made up to fit, plastic surrounds hacked to fit. total cost $20 i reckon it looks alright, not perfect, but certainly not 300$ for what jap lights are!!!

what i get annoyed at is when people get annoyed at being caught when they are clearly in the wrong. you didnt have the p-plates on, the law sais you have to have them on, you got caught, you suffer the consequences. sucked in? people who run red lights also annoy me, mainly cause one day they are gonna take out either me, or someone i care about. so to the guy that said he hated red light cameras...also sucked in! and quit running red lights and it wont be a problem? that is all!

ah thanks mate will hit them up at repco to see what the deal is i ended up finding a guy with one from the forums, so worked out well still a mystery as to the wrong part numbers though... thanks for your efforts mystic, that website is pretty neat hey, will keep that book marked for sure!

problem is, they are using the same catalogue that I'm using....and the part number is listed wrong. so I'm wondering if anyone has the right part number. if you have a toyota part number that woudl be handy, as the website has a cross reference section :)

gday fellow rwd toyota loving enthusiasts. right quick question for you guys who have purchased a new gearbox crossmember rubber mount for your T50 box (either in a ae71 or 86) well first off the problem...my t50 didnt come with one! so i figured order on through repco i got a "kelpro" branded one for like 30$, code MT8019. it looks like this yep totally wrong part since i have to bolt it to this now the problem is the kelpro website lists this part number for both the ae71 and the ae86. both 4ac engines. you can look it up on http://www.motospecs.com.au, but youll need to sign up. so what the dickens fellas???? anyone ordered one? there is a cusco one on ebay for about 115$, so worst case i can get one of them, but id rather just get a cheapy for the time being. this is what it should look like... (this is the cusco one) sorry for the long post.

yeah you are correct. in this case though so long as you get a wheel alignemnt after you change anything you will be fine. dropping the car on a ke gives it a bit of toe in i think.....and will increase any castor that is present, only minor though. but its a good idea to get a wheel alignment.

so i can't be stuffed clicking on all those links.... but... if you want to lower your car properly you need to run a "short stroke shockabsorber", so that the wheels are kept closer to the body on maximum extension. this also ensures that the shorter (lower) springs are kept captive. the reason ke70 struts are useless is that they are too small in diameter for any decent shock absorber to fit. ke70 is like 49mm or something and ae86 is 52mm i think, something like that. either way nothing good can fit inside a ke70 shock tube. there is problly an ok shock available for the ke70 strut but it wont be short stroke, and thus no good to you. the other disadvantage is that there is no easily available brake upgrade available for ke70 struts. if you get ae86 struts you can get the vented discs and calipers off a jdm ae86 and bolt them right on. the only way to enusre that your springs are captive is to have short stroke shocks. there are various threads around on how to make decent suspension out of ae86 struts. look on ae86drivingclub.com.au as well. in response to "Also, will lowering my car affect any other suspension properties in an adverse way? I've read a lot about camber and castor... and XT130 LCAs vs GH/GE sigma LCAs to achieve negative camber and all that stuff... will I need to touch on any of that stuff just because I upgraded shocks/springs?" i dunno what youve read about castor and camber but its not related to shocks and springs. longer LCA's are just another upgrade that people do to get a bit of camber if they want it. there are no "have to's" when choosing suspension "upgrades", its personal preference. i think more research is in order! and don't just put on upgrades cause "thats what everyone does", some of the "upgrades" that people do suck.....and become quite impracticle. look into "roll centre adjusters" as these are considered a "must have item" for lowerd ke70/ae86's.

connect it to a wire that has +12V when the ignition is turned on its there so that if someone manages to get inside and turn the key it will alarm. essentially you coudl do it like you say to something that "sends a charge" when you try and start it, but that means that the alarm will only sound when they try and start it, so essentially they could push start it since turning on the ignition wont alarm it. just connect it straight to your ignition barrell on the "IGN" terminal (solder it on with whatever is there). jsut use a multi meter and chech which one it is.

I'm sure it can be made to fit... but why on earth would you want 165 tyres??? skinny as get better wheels that fit with 195's, so you can actually....you know...grip? Boost+k: well done on the guard flaring, that looks spotless!! btw what is a "dolly" when you say "dolly and hammer"

did you even read the instructions that came with it? get a multimeter and a soldering iron handy its 4 wires man, not rocket science. admitedly it will be a challenge if you are not electircally minded, but you have to start somewhere and a keyboard and mouse isnt going to help you in this case. you got a ) +12v with ignition on, take it straight off your key barell where it sais "IGN" b ) ground, put a ring on it and bolt it to a ground bolt somewhere c ) sender wire, this goes straight on the end of your sender, should be a push on spade connector d ) illumination, find a bulb on the back of your dash that lights up when you put your lights on (cigarette lighter is what i used) and put the wire onto somewhere that gets +12V if its tight to go in its prolly the wrong thread, take it down to repco and get an adaptor that fits your thread. ps caliber guages suck. you shoulda got a VDO one so you can get the proper fittings straight out of the catalogue behind the desk at repco. but even though caliber sucks they should be easy enough to fit. ps. what the hell is trisco? don't they make christmas hampers?

hey man, sounds like your having a bit of fun with your temperature... my stocko ke70 guage was doin the same as yours, all over the place and not really telling me anything. the problem is the guages and senders and wiring in these cars is like 30yrs old, and since they run on resistnace they can get out of accuracy easily by crappy connectinos and wiring. the only real way to get an accurate reading is to go aftermarket, the stocko guage doenst really tell you anything it just sais "hot" or "cold", and knowone knows what hot or cold is. so what i did...was went to repco ordered in a VDO temperature guage and while i was there i ordered a sender to go with it. guage was about $50 and the sender around 25$ take down your old sender and get them to match the thread so it will bolt straight in, they should be the same on all models but take it just to make sure. if your worried about destroying your ke interiour just do what i did, take out your guage cluster and do something simliar to this.... nice and stocko looking and the VDO guages have green lights in them so the guage looks almost identicle to the speedo/tacho at night. i know you don't wanna do it, but its the only way to get a decent reading of temperature :(

yeah its possible to get away with it, but as you say its stinking low. i have jic base adjustble ones, but apparnetly JIC are short in general I'm at the top of the adjustment on the base, and prolly 2/3 up the thread on the spring seat, and the crossmember is about 140mm off the ground alternatively my mate has same setup as me but with, KEI OFFICE coilovers. his are so damn long, but this allows for heaps more "Droop" or how much the wheels can drop away from the chassis, which makes thing way more comfortable.

ive got s13 gear in my ke70 handles great if you ask me you need to get base adjustable coilovers cause s13's generally use a shorter strut than kes, so you need as much adjustment as you can get you only need a bigger master if you are using sr20 brakes, i have CA18 brakes and stocko (brand new though) masteryclinder. you gota push the pedal a bit harder, but i think it makes it feel better anyway. there are only 2 diffferent sized s13 brakes, SR and CA. CA are PLENTY for these small cars, SR is a bit of an overkill. best off getting the proper camber tops for your car, cuase its hard to cover up the holes if you redrill the strut tower. having said that i redrilled mine to s13, regret it every day, but you get that. dunno about the older ke's (30, 55 whatever) but for ke70 its almost a bolt in afair. you need to drill a 14mm hole in your crossmember, as your stocko one is 12mm, and nissan bolt is 14m. if you can't get a s13 LCA bolt, go get one off an R31, all the same. standard s13 LCA's will give you about +30mm track either side. crap if you want to run psycho offset wheels, but if your like me and have normal sized wheels (mine are 15x7 +23) they will sit perfectly flush with your untouched guards with about -2 degrees of camber. i hear that R31 LCA's are about 30mm shorter than s13 ones and are a direct replacement, i will be looking into this in the future. how does the LCA length compare in a ke70 to a ke30? you might have to go straight to R31 ones if s13 ones are gonna be too long. thats about it really, bolt it in get a wheel alignment and drive away happily!

vdo is a winner excuse the dust....but this is my setup...most people think its stock!! i want to get a oil pressure guage, and put it where the old temp guage is, not sure on the feasability of that yet... quite easy to do, just hack away at the back of the dash cluster with a pair of side cutters

hey mate I'm sorry to steal the thunder of the thread starter... but is the commondore diff the same as the R31 diff? (i assume you talking about the VL which by my understanding is based on an R31) cause ive got a mate whos looking for a aftermarket LSD for his R31 but hasnt had much luck. and we all know the stocko r31 lsds arent that crash hot could you possibly give me (and the thread starter as I'm sure he'll be keen too) some info on said "kaaz lsd" and how/can you get one for the R31 diff ive had a search around kaaz website but can't find anything about R31, heaps of other nissans though.

a vacuum leak is just a place where air can get into the system where is not supposed to be. on carbys yeah it can be one of the matrix of pipes, or more major like a blown intake manifold gasket or in my case loose components coming appart. I'm pretty sure the reason that its bad for the engine is that the air hasnt had the appropriate amount of fuel mixed with it and thus creates a uber lean mixture and thus runs poorly or in the case of an efi system it stuffs up the map/afm sensing and does the same thing. your best bet is just to go around with a few spanners and make sure everything is tight, then fire up the engine and get it to idle. then start spraying some sort of flamable spray (wd40, rp7) and this flamable gas will make its way through any vacuum leaks (if they exist) you have and you will hear an audible change in revs of the engine.

ill second that my carby was all loose a while ago and the accelerator cable was pulling the carby appart from the manifold and causing a HUGE vacume leak it would idle fine cuase there was no force pulling it away. and it was fine when accelerating slowly, but if you did any thing quick with your right foot it would surge and splutter. after you make sure everything is tight id do a quick tune up, reset the timing and plug gaps/points dizzy, spray some carby cleaner down the throat of carby. should run pretty good after all that.

yeah its a bad idea but mines been bolted to the side of my box for about 3yrs, still goes strong!

your best bet, is to get the head straight off and take it down to a machinist and let them test it out and make sure its all good. last time i had to change a 4k headgasket, the head was warped something crazy,but the machinist had a head they had just reconditioned on the shelf. theres a good chance that if they don't have, they will get one from a wreckers for you. actually taking off the head is quite easy, just undo all the bolts...the joys of pushrods. putting it on is a bit more fun with setting up the valve clearances. if your not exactly sure what your doin, go get a workshop manual for like 30$ will tell ya exactly what to do, step by step. good luck with it :)

cheers mate hahaha no carbon bonnet here! wouldn't mind a FRP one i guess, but legel legal's aren't really a fan of them... and no black either! keeping it blluuueeee bit of extra news for you all. i started up that 4age where it is sitting. managed to get it running on just injectors and dizzy, no MAP/TPS or any sensors at all needless it say it didnt run very well, but i got a few revs out of it! compression results jumped from 140 90 95 100 to 160 170 165 170, so I'm pretty happy that. few extra things to get, and its 4age fun time :laff:

yeah front is easy as... Rear...thats another story heres how i did it just hacked up a stocko bumper (the metal part) and then drilled a few holes the main problem is that the metal one will make the bumper too low think? so you gota weld the brackets a bit lower to get the required height been a while since i did it, but its not to bad, just get happy with your angle grinder and welder. theres some more pics in my thread here http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=14411 hope this helps :lol:

sounds to me like you need to get yourself an engine manual! can get one from supercheap/repco for like 30$, explains everything with nice pretty pictures. ive never heard of a timing chain fail, my mums old corona had a rattly chain, and it would never tension tight enough (18Rc, apparently its an inherit thing?). but the timing chain on a 4k is heaps shorter and shouldn't have any problems. rattly in my 4k means i need to have a crack at adjusting the tappets again. in short you gota get each piston up to TDC by watching the valves "rock" (ie when exhaust is closing, and inlet is opening) the one of the OTHER cylinders will have "loose" valves (you will hear clearance if you pull valves up and down) and this is when you adjust these ones to the specific tolerances. its a bit annoying and tedious, as i generally miss the TDC at least once, and have to spin the engine all the way round again:P but you get the hang of it! just keep track of the ones you have adjusted, and DONOT undo anything unless you are sure its the proper time to adjust, or you could have all sorts of dramas....mmm backfire up the carby....

yeah just go and order it man...its nothing special... just for interests sake they are exact same as an ae86, the indicator return things work with them too. i got an uber long boss kit from some importer for an ae86, bolted it up perfect. uber long one is great for driving, brings the wheel that big closer. indicators are only just in reach though....

ahh well its been almost one year.....thats a little scary.... unfortunately the budget hasn't allowed much to change too much on the thing ive got some new wheels on the back there thanks to mr matt "little red spirit" ive also been building up a bit of a 4age, that one day will be tested and put in for some fun times.... and the biggest change...its buffed, polished and waxed!!! unfortunately the bonnet still looks like crap.....gota respray one day... anyway heres some pretty pics for you all!