ke70dave

depends on the current state of the car too if its all the same colour, forget about the paint, and get suspension and brakes happening. then some 4age goodness...(note the order of components there) i bought a ke about 2yrs ago, with the intention of having it 4age'd within 6months...so far i have spent way to much cash on the suspension and brakes (its pretty good though), have replaced just about everything on the entire car, it came with all different colours, so its had a lick of paint and some nice mods to the outside (fudged up quad lights, and some shiny bars) and its still not 4age..... but its all good fun working on it though :yes:

the thing i hate about this E10 stufff.....is that the petrol stations advertise it on the billboards, and i forget...and get to the browser and normal fuel is 10C MORE!!! :no2: i tried E10 fuel in my 4k ke70 once, i did it by mistake, just put in 10$ worth since i already stated filling before i realised... for some reason it just ran terribly....was very difficult to start in the mornings (10$ lasts me almost a week, i don't drive much) and would splutter and carry on at low throttle. i ended up just going to servo and putting in 10$ of BP ultimate, i figured E10 pluss some ultimate should equal about same as normal fuel :dance: instantly it ran better, so i dunno..maybe i just got a bad batch of E10.... having said that i haven't ever put it in again, so maybe i just got unlucky, but ive always been wary of additives in fuel...but then again you never really know the quality of ANY fuel anyway....

i would be inclined to attack it with kill rust, and some primer (so it doesn't rust any more), and not actually cover the holes up, so that further water can get out?

i was just about to ask a very simliar question i have noticed that on my 4k (and my friends one), they have BOTH of these, one is at the front kinda on that lil copper tube that sticks out of the thermostat holder, and the other is at the side, kinda hard to get to tucked away. i orderd a brand new one from repco (temp gauge sender) and it cost me 20$, and it was the one with the little tab on the end so buggered if i know what the one with the nobbly thing is for.... (i put the new temp sender where the nobly one was before, and the temp guage works fine, and nothing else is broken, the only thing i can think is that the nobbly one is for a electric fan switch, like FWD cars have?) sorry not an informative post, but it adds a little more to the equation

amen to that RT114 is a winner on my lil car. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke...e/ke70done3.jpg

yeah pretty much JDM (few other markets too..) TE71? DX lights they sell for around 300$ for a set, usually including a nice grill you need to hack your front apron panel thing to make them fit, you can see its a bit cut out where the bottom of the light surround fits in are they worth 300$? its supply and demand.. they are getting quite popular and people are starting to import them from various countries. there are stacks of guys with them on their ke70s (its almost hard to find ones that don't have them now...) they come up forsale quite often, and i think there are a few who can source them too

maybe his problem is he can't sign in :yes:

its interesting i found this topic before i got my cheapo whiteline adjustable panhard rod, i was very scepticle of how much the diff actually moved....and if my $120 or so was going to go to waste... i had some 14x8" 0 offset wheels on the rear, and put the lowered springs in, and sure enough the passenger side scrubbed like crazy, but the drivers side wasnt anywhere near scrubbing. now all the maths makes sense, and techincally it shouldnt move more than a few more, but my personal experience shows that it moves a whole lot more than 1mm.....you could actualyl see it was a lot different. although this is all relative to the rear guards...who sais they are the same on each side... unless of course like someone suggested, the diff is not in the centre from factory....which i guess could be right? they set up the front end with positive camber, so wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't in the middle? one thing i did notice, with my car at its current height, the panhard rod is essentially horizontal (can kinda see the height in the pic in my signature thing, its about 120mm high at the jacking sills) so id go as far as to say that in this configuration the movement of the diff would be almost negligable, the stiffish springs also help.

yeah I'm a pretty big fan of the new GTR i think... at first i didnt like the look of it...but the front is just mean as....back I'm still getting used to... then theres all the electronics jazz thats involved, i still don't like the flappy padle idea... but after watching the best motoring video where they take it for a thrash around the nurburg ring....holy tolito...what a ridiculously awesome car. i can't wait for top gear to test it out.... isnt toyota bringing out some fancy new lexus car? LF-A something? supposed to be the new supra?

how exactly do you tune a stocko aisan carby? i thought that you can only tune the idle mixture? my car uses way to much fuel, its jsut a stocko 4k with a 3k carby. it kinda varies, with 10$ of fuel (about 6.5 litres) sometimes the fuel light comes on at 35k's other times i get up to 70k's, with pretty much the same "enthusiasm" in driving....

could also be just a bit of dirt in the carby id attack the carby with some carby cleaner

hey man, yeah as sammo said is your mates ke flat front of slanty front? ill assume its flat front, as I'm pretty sure slanty never got sealed beams. you will find that the square light is the same as ALOT of cars, like hilux's, celicas, its a very common size used. even a bunch of non toyota cars have it. so if you head to your wreckers you might be lucky to find some cars with the semi sealed lenses so you can change the bulb to HID if you please.

15x8 offset of 0 are pretty extreme wheels, I'm sure they will fit...if you keep the car at stock ride height. wheels might stick out a fair way. your best bet is to try them on! tyre sizes make a big difference as well

1000$ eh... unfortunately you can't do much with the stocko front suspension. you need to get bigger struts to put in decent shocks. for bigger struts you need either AE86 struts or ke30/55 (i think?) had that same size strut tubes as ae86.. either way your probably better off getting ae86 struts since youll get slightly bigger brakes with them too (jdm brake upgrade available, or various others) complete ae86 struts and brakes can be had for about 200-250, depends what you can find. now you can be naughty here and get some springs from EB- AU falcon, cut them in half and put half a spring at each corner of your car...cost...like 50$ or you can be not so naughty and get proper springs from reputable spring manufactures/suppliers, about 100$/corner...cost 400$ assuming you went for the 2nd options, 400$ + 250$ = 650 for struts and springs (using non dodgy method, ie not cut falcons) now shocks, have a look on ae86dc at the rear suspension article, i got shocks from some commondore wagon, for the rear (model number 343113 i think) KYB jobs...150$ brand new. now for front shocks, expect to pay the same amount for shocks that fit in the front, I'm not sure what exact shocks to use as i put S13 gear in my ke70 (alot more than 1000$), but something short stroke should be around ....150$ brand new again. so if you get proper springs thats 950$ spent, if you get falcon springs you got another 350$ to play with. i would suggest new bushes all round, nothalane or whatever they are called. ooh ooh almost forgot, youll want to get yourself a adj panhard rod as well (110$ whitline ebay). keep that diff of yours inline. thats pretty much your 1000$ gone, modifying cars is expensive.... this setup above will get your car driving around on rails though!! if you got more cash.. strut bars are good fender braces are also good (talk to littleredspirit about these, he raves about them:P) sway bars are good, a little over priced for what they are, i wanna try welding 2 stock ones together one day! camber plates for that tunability, longer control arms if you wish to be cheap but first of all, you want to get some 14/15" wheels, with some DECENT tyres on the road, not 400$ each, just 120$ each jobs will be fine. no point having all this awesome suspension on crappy 165/70/R13's!!!!!

ke70's stock have like +1 camber you don't want positive camber man!!! its baddd.. have you got positive and negative camber mixed up? positive camber--> \-------/ (looking at tyres from front) negative camber--> /--------\ (again looking from front) if its negative camber you want check this out---> Article on gaining extra camber if its positive camber you still want, well...i dunno...might want to wonder why you want positive camber oh yeah id go camber tops over extra length LCA's, but your better off getting a full AE86 strut/coilover (with camber tops) so you can upgrade your shocks while your at it...

i think most people use a 4agze with a CAS and avoid the dizzy, like this pic shows as you can see the actuator is very close to the CAS, don't think a dizzy would fit in there but ive just noticed that on your second pic there is a dizzy and a turbo working.... I'm just thinking out-a-loud here... but you say your gonna rotate the compressor side (shiny side) so it points the other way, could you mount the actuator from a bracket that attaches to the rocker cover? it would take a bit of engineering, proper bolts from the inside of the cover, and by the looks of it would need to shorten the actuator bar... on most 4agte's ive seen the turbo has sat alot further out from the engine like this pic what engine is that? just an ordinary naturally asperated 4age?

hey fellas, just thought i would share my experience on this i have CA18 brakes in my ke70, with JIC base adjustable coil overs. i have none of the problems as spoken to above^^^ don't know what you mean buy "stuff up your geometry" but i don't get any bumpsteer and its a low model 25yr old Toyota corolla, i severely doubt it has uber refined race-car like geometry in the first place... only thing you need to get is make sure you get LONG coilovers, so you get enough suspension droop to make it nice to drive my coil overs are a little short, only allowing about 50mm of droop, makes for a slightly uncomfortable ride, but damn it handles well!!! if any one has any other questions feel free to ask me :dance:

hey man hows it goin i just went and got my old shocks out of the junk pile...and got covered in the dirty crappy water that had built up inside them!! but ohh well:P i got the measuring tape out for ya this is not my shock, its just a picture on the internet i found to show where i measured it from

i dunno how many km/s to a tank, as I'm too poor to fill it all the way up:P but I'm very fuel conscious so i hit the trip meter every time i put some in. i usually put in 10$ (so at average 1.20/L thats about 8L, i don't drive much, catch the train to uni every day, lucky to use 10$/week) and i will get around 70kms before the fuel light turns on again. my 4k is stock with a 3k carby. do you think that economy is good? (roughly 11.5L/100km)???

hahaha cheers mate!! thats my lil car there what you all think of my rear bumper eh? the left side is held there by a gatorade bottle, the weld broke:( still good!!

yep^^ accessories have nothing to do with what size battery you need. the alternator puts out something like 50A at 12V, so when your driving along there is no way you are going to be able to draw more than 50A through ANYTHING in the car, my stereo with the 12 sub and a few speakers, at louder than i would ever user was at maximum 6A. headlights take a fair chunk if you have 2x60w globes going, thats 10A there, fan thing is no more than 5A. so at maximum my car has under 20A at "normal" night driving. pretty much just get a battery that fits on the battery tray, and you will be fine.

diggin up old threads man!! but oh well ive got a metalic blue ke70, and it came with the ke70 blue interiour (sooo much better than the poo brown) I'm thinking of attacking everything with that vinyl dye its in a spray can, but its not like paint, its definatly a dye i painted some stuff in my old car and i coudlnt belive how well it came up!! its like a saturn colour, and appears to take a fair beating. its good for plastics, so dash/console/door cards. just my idea anyway.

haha thanks fellas yep my motto is "do it on the cheap!" it annoys me when people say it can't be done, lies! modifying a car can be done on the cheap! anyway, its good to be driving it again, forgot how good it handles compared to my brothers car (1984 stocko mazda 323, yuck!)

cheers mate! yeah do you like my toyota sign on grill there, nice and straight! next eh.... well ive bought a fair few 4age parts (new clutch master, pedal box, jdm manifold, random other crap) basically all i need now is a 4age, ecu and loom. and i can get me some power! oh yeah need fuel system to...but yeah so if anyone has a 4age they want to sell for a reasonable price let me know! i still got to put my 8kg springs in the front, but that can wait till uni finishes (11 assignments in the next 2 weeks woot!)

few happy snaps guys, not polished yet, and some of the trim not back on, but its driveable!!! and this pic just looks cool:P