ke70dave

well currently mine is just attached to the radiator right where the top pipe joins it. its a little dodgy. but it appears to give good enough readings to keep the water temperature in check. but i bought one of those little radiator joiner pipes, that have provision to put a sender. (picked it up for cheap from repco, like D1 brand or some crap) so what i did then was bought a copper plug that fits in the thread, and then I'm going to drill a small hole in the top of the plug, and then silicon the thermistor in there. its been on the "list of things to do" for a while now...

i remember asking a simliar thing a few years ago, when i was installing a temp controller circuit kit thing i bought from jaycar. my 4age runs at 82 degrees, under most all driving conditions (cruising thrashing, idling). the temp only goes up if I'm stopped for prolly longer than 5mins. so what i did was i set the thermo fan to come on at 90 degrees and turn off when it got to 85 degrees (mine had a hysteresis setting), and it only ever comes on if I'm stopped for longer than 5mins or if driving uber slow around a car park etc. the best thing to do is just experiment, you don't want the fan coming on all the time, or its just wearing the poor thing out unnecessarily. i just put the temp sensor in the top radiator pipe, seemed to work well enough!

is the head still straight? how did you blow it? overheating? 4k head is soo small it doesnt take much overheating to warp it = blown gasket.

hmm thanks for the replys guys looks like ive been given some wrong information from the exhaust shop. i thoguht it was a bit too easy if this other muffler was the solution. philby when you say "proper muffler" are you refering to a baffled muffler? or do you have any suggestions on a decent muffler? i thought huricane was supposed to be pretty good? apparently not for my wanting. i still have the resonator that they took out so getting that put back in isnt a problem.

well folks i have a tech Q for you tech heads. wasnt exactly sure where to put it so i chose general mechanical. anyway. the details: ke70 poorolla standard jap 4age jap ecu standard jap exhaust manifold and secondaries. 2.25" pipes all the way, over diff rest of exhaust system : high flow cat convertor 2 straight through mufflers, one just before the diff, and one after. i belive they are both the same "huricane". ok the problem: my original exhaust i had a "resonator" where one of the straight through mufflers is now. the problem was it was just to loud for my liking. it was ok when you wanted to have fun. but listening to music was a non event on the highway, as the drone was terribe. so i took it down to an exhaust shop and got them to take out the resonator, and put a muffler in instead (their recomendation). as my understanding is that a resonator is just a small muffler? thats what he told me anyway.. now with the new setup (dual mufflers) the noise is perfect. has a nice note when you put your foot down (and i can hear the intake roar more!) and when cruising its almost silent, just a slight brrrrr in the background. EXCEPT i have some epic resonance at certain frequencies, thus certain RPM. the frequencies being 1200rpm, 2000rpm, 3700rpm, 4500rpm, and around 5700 rpm. only aproximate values from my standard tacho. by resonance i mean that the exhaust gets REAAALLLYYY loud for a very very narrow band of RPM (ash tray shaking, tool box shakes in the boot, all plastic parts rattle, my bones shake etc). so anyone know any decent methods to move the natural frequencies of my exhaust system out of my rev range???? i thought about putting the old resonator in as well as the new muffler, but i dunno if it would even fit. and then i might lose all exhaust note.

unfortunately from personal experience, i know that this doesnt work. back end of year 12 had my little mazda 323, with not the best stereo but it was my pride and joy. with a nice little flashing LED on the dash. came on whenever the ignition was turned off. some little 14yr old punk (that they caught), broke in stole all my stereo gear and few other random items. and the only way they couldnt steal the car was because i had a steering lock on it. so they just let the handbrake off and pushed it into my fence. oh yeah i was asleep like 30m away from it too.... to the original poster, unlucky mate! but luckily you still have the car. and luckily corolla parts are cheap to replace. btw what kind of car was it?

thats a nice setup there corolla_nut certainly some nice engineering gone into that setup. i do have one question though. when the fan isn't in use i'm just wondering how much that shroud would be restricting the natural air flow when driving along normally. since you only really need the fan when the car is stationary or going up a hill under full load or something. i know in my car i rarely ever turn on my fan (i have an override switch, since my little temperature circuit is being a pain) only in car parks or traffic.

yeah I'm with mr tas_ae71 i put a thermo fan on my little 4k radiator a few years back. just put the little cable tie things through the fins and its been fine. the main thing to make sure is that it is tight against the radiator, and it is KEPT tight. the way you are gonna destroy your radiator is by the fan moving around, and rubbing up against the radiator (on bumps etc). wearing through the metal fins/channels. obviosly the best way is to make some brackets. or better yet, get a new radiator that has factory thermo fans built in. they are also better because they have a shroud built in. popular options being hyundai excel or camry. pretty much anything FWD.

have you done what was suggested above? Searched around? if so what have you learnt?

also remember that the injectors being "loose" in the head will also create vacuum leaks = bad. when i put my 4age together, i got my injectors cleaned, some dude came around in a van, put them on his machine for 15mins,gave me a print out on the flow test, and put new rubbers on all of them, was like $120! bargain!

one way to tell if its diff or gearbox is to put the car into neutral when your at 80k's and see if it still whines. and try 3rd gear at 80k's and see if it whines. most diffs in these old corollas are buggered by now. time for an overhaul. but yeah get a 5speed box and a 4.3 auto diff, then overhaul that one! (btw 4.3 diff give you more acceleration for the poor 4k) my t50 box whines in 5th gear, and only 5th gear. kinda annoying, but over 80k's you can't hear anything cept for exhaust anyway so its all good:P

if any one EVER sends me a text message that resembles that kind of spelling, theres no way i am replying!!!! i don't care if it takes you a few more minuites to type, proper words only please!!! as for something to do to a 4k? throwing it into a lake is a good thing, quite fun too id imagine. and if you used to have a worked starlet just do what you did on that?

yeah one of those open ended ring spanner things find yourself a hydraulic or brake shop, take out everything that needs replacing, land them on their front desk and say "i want a new one of each of these". the hard line will take them no more than about 5min to make. the soft line a little longer. if you are keen you can get braided hoses made up quite cheap to, i think it cost me around 100$ for both rubber hoses, but rubber will be much cheaper. if the other side hard line is ok then i would just leave it, but id replace both the front soft lines at once though.

i thought you said you read the how to make a tough 4k? then you would know what you spend your dosh on..... assuming your 4k is stock as a rock 5speed - 200 (buy from forums) extractors -200 (buy from forums) 1.75-2" exhaust- 200 (either buy from forums, or get one made up by a shop) upgraded carby:- a rejetted nikki carby wil make it flow beter, cheap to, allow $150 assuming you can self install. cam regrind can be had for cheap, $150 or so assuming you can self install. or if you want to spend more, find a webber and adaptor plate, could cost 400-500, depends what bargains you can find. or go all out and get some twin delorators (spelling?) but that will cost alot..and not much good without exhaust/cam etc

yeah but he sais its a 4af-c ie a carby the air lock thing is generally only a proplem with EFI engines, as the computer goes ape when it gets an eratic signal from the water temp sensor (s). id start by cleaning all the crap out of the carby with some carby cleaner, and make sure you don't have any vac leaks anywhere. as for the pinging maybe your ignition timing is out? have you checked it with a timing light? shoudl be like 10BTDC at idle, or close too.

yeah id suggest some sort of bucket/racing seat i recenetly put a recaro bucket in my ke, its a recliner style. but i swear i sit like 80mm lower, and can sit 100mm+ further back. also if you get a recliner style seat, the seat mounts on the bottom are very easy to move further back so you can get more leg room.

seems we have all misjudged you a bit, sounds like your on the ball already. and since... megasquirt ecu? few hundred bucks and a whole lot of reading and you can have an aftermarket ecu to make your 4afe push the ke70 along. megasquirts are great and might just suit your application. great project as well! i hope I'm still playing with rollas at almost 60!

my understanding is that the only real difference between this and a 4age conversion, is like you have mentioned the distributer and the manifold. though I'm not sure what you would do about the exhaust, a quick google search reveals the 4age manifold wont fit. so youll need something custom, unless you can make the standard one work somehow. so unless you can move that dizzy out of the way for cheap, and find something cheap for the intake/exhaust. you might be better off getting a 4age and be like the rest of us.

yeah its faaaiiirrlyyy quietish....under normal driving. my exhaust consists of factory 4age manifold and secondaries, 2.25" pipe into high flow cat, then a resonator, then that muffler (huricane straight through) then that "dumper" as you call it. which is just a bent peice of pipe welded onto the end of the muffler. when you get under it it makes a bit of noise, but over 4000 revs i reckon the the engine is louder than the noise coming out the exhaust.

hey man jump into the FAQ and read up on "how to build a tough K motor" in essence: intake: stock carby sucks, upgrade carby, to either a single webber, or if you got cash twin delerators (spell) compression: grind that head away to up the comp camshaft: lumpy lumpy exhaust: stock exhaust is pitiful, set of extractors a must with a nice 1.75-2" system ignition: find an electronic dizzy from somewhere, dunno where, research. run some decent fuel, and crank that timing advance, and have fun

some cool looking cars here. some wack ones too! heres my ke70 "dumper" (as they say), on a hiricane muffler

was great chatting with ya today ben! it is one nice ae71 you have and the 4a looks fantastic mate, can't wait to give you a hand to get your car goin! (id better get a ride when its done though!)

sounds like your shock absorbers are stuffed! if its only a padock basher find someone selling a complete pair of ke70 struts which look like they have good shocks and swap them over with yours. will be cheap as and get you back to bashing padocks. if your keen you can buy some new shocks, could get some cheapies for like 120$/pair or something, but might not be worth it. cutting springs is fine (for bashing padocks) but yeah if your shocks are stuffed then it will make it alot worse. you might want to keep your springs un cut, cause if your having to much fun in the padock your springs might fall out if they arent captive! (cut)

hes not joking, he is most likely drunk. id say he definately is. no need up run away from the rollaclub! ive followed your build from day 1, been impressed so far. if knowone disagreed what a boring place it would be!

now thats a comeback!! looks like its getting a bit heated in here fellas! i must admit I'm not a fan of the: "lets buy wide wheels, and use skinny tyres to make them fit" and it appears your suspension travel is now somewhat...limited. ive just recently increased my front suspension travel by a good 2" (this weekend) and noticed a remarkable inprovement in handling. but each to their own i guess. turbo 20v should be fun.