ke70dave

yeah one of those open ended ring spanner things find yourself a hydraulic or brake shop, take out everything that needs replacing, land them on their front desk and say "i want a new one of each of these". the hard line will take them no more than about 5min to make. the soft line a little longer. if you are keen you can get braided hoses made up quite cheap to, i think it cost me around 100$ for both rubber hoses, but rubber will be much cheaper. if the other side hard line is ok then i would just leave it, but id replace both the front soft lines at once though.

i thought you said you read the how to make a tough 4k? then you would know what you spend your dosh on..... assuming your 4k is stock as a rock 5speed - 200 (buy from forums) extractors -200 (buy from forums) 1.75-2" exhaust- 200 (either buy from forums, or get one made up by a shop) upgraded carby:- a rejetted nikki carby wil make it flow beter, cheap to, allow $150 assuming you can self install. cam regrind can be had for cheap, $150 or so assuming you can self install. or if you want to spend more, find a webber and adaptor plate, could cost 400-500, depends what bargains you can find. or go all out and get some twin delorators (spelling?) but that will cost alot..and not much good without exhaust/cam etc

yeah but he sais its a 4af-c ie a carby the air lock thing is generally only a proplem with EFI engines, as the computer goes ape when it gets an eratic signal from the water temp sensor (s). id start by cleaning all the crap out of the carby with some carby cleaner, and make sure you don't have any vac leaks anywhere. as for the pinging maybe your ignition timing is out? have you checked it with a timing light? shoudl be like 10BTDC at idle, or close too.

yeah id suggest some sort of bucket/racing seat i recenetly put a recaro bucket in my ke, its a recliner style. but i swear i sit like 80mm lower, and can sit 100mm+ further back. also if you get a recliner style seat, the seat mounts on the bottom are very easy to move further back so you can get more leg room.

seems we have all misjudged you a bit, sounds like your on the ball already. and since... megasquirt ecu? few hundred bucks and a whole lot of reading and you can have an aftermarket ecu to make your 4afe push the ke70 along. megasquirts are great and might just suit your application. great project as well! i hope I'm still playing with rollas at almost 60!

my understanding is that the only real difference between this and a 4age conversion, is like you have mentioned the distributer and the manifold. though I'm not sure what you would do about the exhaust, a quick google search reveals the 4age manifold wont fit. so youll need something custom, unless you can make the standard one work somehow. so unless you can move that dizzy out of the way for cheap, and find something cheap for the intake/exhaust. you might be better off getting a 4age and be like the rest of us.

yeah its faaaiiirrlyyy quietish....under normal driving. my exhaust consists of factory 4age manifold and secondaries, 2.25" pipe into high flow cat, then a resonator, then that muffler (huricane straight through) then that "dumper" as you call it. which is just a bent peice of pipe welded onto the end of the muffler. when you get under it it makes a bit of noise, but over 4000 revs i reckon the the engine is louder than the noise coming out the exhaust.

hey man jump into the FAQ and read up on "how to build a tough K motor" in essence: intake: stock carby sucks, upgrade carby, to either a single webber, or if you got cash twin delerators (spell) compression: grind that head away to up the comp camshaft: lumpy lumpy exhaust: stock exhaust is pitiful, set of extractors a must with a nice 1.75-2" system ignition: find an electronic dizzy from somewhere, dunno where, research. run some decent fuel, and crank that timing advance, and have fun

some cool looking cars here. some wack ones too! heres my ke70 "dumper" (as they say), on a hiricane muffler

was great chatting with ya today ben! it is one nice ae71 you have and the 4a looks fantastic mate, can't wait to give you a hand to get your car goin! (id better get a ride when its done though!)

sounds like your shock absorbers are stuffed! if its only a padock basher find someone selling a complete pair of ke70 struts which look like they have good shocks and swap them over with yours. will be cheap as and get you back to bashing padocks. if your keen you can buy some new shocks, could get some cheapies for like 120$/pair or something, but might not be worth it. cutting springs is fine (for bashing padocks) but yeah if your shocks are stuffed then it will make it alot worse. you might want to keep your springs un cut, cause if your having to much fun in the padock your springs might fall out if they arent captive! (cut)

hes not joking, he is most likely drunk. id say he definately is. no need up run away from the rollaclub! ive followed your build from day 1, been impressed so far. if knowone disagreed what a boring place it would be!

now thats a comeback!! looks like its getting a bit heated in here fellas! i must admit I'm not a fan of the: "lets buy wide wheels, and use skinny tyres to make them fit" and it appears your suspension travel is now somewhat...limited. ive just recently increased my front suspension travel by a good 2" (this weekend) and noticed a remarkable inprovement in handling. but each to their own i guess. turbo 20v should be fun.

a belt part number is its description eg --> 5pk460 = 5 ribbed belt 460mm long. so count how many ribs you need measure how long you need it (peice of string and a ruler) head down to repco and buy some new belts celebrate with a slurpee

its pretty easy man http://www.yotarepair.com/4A-GEtimingbelt.html follow the later half of that if you get really stuck I'm only in wynnum so can prolly come out, but theres not alot to it! as for the dizzy, once you have the timing gears all lined up on the dots, point the dizzy so the rotor cap is pointing as close to spark plug lead 1 as you can, keep in mind that when you put the dizzy in the rotor cap will rotate so you need to account for that (put it slightly off so it when it spins in it lines up) if your getting backfires your getting very close! jsut need to fiddle with the dizzy position. move it one tooth at a time and if its getting worse your moving it the wrong way! btw FWD or RWD, as RWD is much easier to work on:P

less than one of those bottles of coolant you buy for $10 at supercheap. so less than 5L? why do you ask

hey mate, just read your whole thread! its absolutely awesome what your doin. good to see the car being used so often as well. those race tracks look like fun to drive on!

damnit as soon as i saw this thread i wanted to post some pics of buckets!!! but you guys beat me to it..... in general anythign that bolts into ae86 will fit into a ke70 with very minimal mods if any (aftermarket jobs that is) anything else get ya welder out.

there isnt much to it mate, but it is going to require you to have a go youreslf.... also next time you ask a Q, provide as much information as possible..... starting with: when the problem started, how it started, things you have tried to fix it, extra info that might be of importance etc. initially check your high beam relay, will be located in the engine bay fuse box. there will prolly be a fuse somewhere as well, so look for that if they are ok, time to dig deaper. take off the plastic cover things around your steering column out of the end of the indicator stalk there is 3 wires, these wires control the head lights. they are very small thin wires and they will most likey be perished. on my car all 3 of these wires perished and none of my headlights worked, i replaced these wires and have worked perfectly since. good luck!

hey mate i helped a mate put a ca18de + t into an ae86 we got the kaizen garage mounts, but that wont work in your ke35/55. so your gonna need to get custom made engine and gbox mounts. if you got a mate with a welder it wont take much to make them. the kaizen mounts were just a few peices of metal welded together on the right angle, not much do it really. tailshaft: cost my mate 350 i think, for a single peice tailshaft with brand new uni joints at either end, differential: (you are goin to need a new diff), most exy part, he used a yr22 torago diff ($350) got it modified by the pros ($350) again, he also got a rose jointed rear end (bout 350$ again, not entirely needed though). fuel system: 2 pumps, surge tank, new line (8mm is the way to go), allow $300 intercooler piping: we made our own, out of scraps of old piping out of mates nissans, but if your goin to get it made by a pro, be prepared to pay 600 or so, even more. exhaust: think he jsut got 3" straight through, with a cat, like 400$ i think thats about it to get the engine sitting in the car. now onto the engine ca18de, you say you have one? if so think it cost like 400 for us turbo and manifold: 2nd hand off someone, allow prolly 250-300, though you can get bargains from time to time, but you want a decent condition one. your gonna need the ecu/loom/injectors off a turbo model, prolly allow 300 again for purchase, and another 150 or so for cleaning and flow testing injectors. you will need them cleaned. and someone to wire it up, got beerhead off here to do it for us, think it was 250 or so, great guy beerhead! top workmanship too right now on to the fun bit. we blew up 2 CA18de's with this setup. reason? REVS!!!! get a rev limiter asap, ca18's don't have a stock rev limit, and they sure rev like hell with boost and a light car. you shoudl really get an aftermarkte ecu, cuase with the raised compression of the ca18de all the timing will be out. but it does work well with the stocko ecu, and it absolutely haulss ass too. damn fast. but yeah to do it properly id get an aftermarket ecu. good luck mate

thanks for the replies guys. and adam really like your car hey!

condtion wise: struts are struts, not alot to them as long as they arent bent expect to pay few hundred bucks for complete struts with ADM disc (solid)/calipers. if the calipers are leaking a bit, a rebuild kit is prolly $80 or so. if you look at my members ride thread (search ke70dave in the members car section) I'm running said shocks with the cut down falcons, my 195/50/r15 tyres are slightly tucked under the rear arches. i think lowest point on the car is bout 130/140mm...new exhaust might be a tad lower not sure. also keep in mind that it is not the shocks that determine the ride height, it is the springs. the shocks just determine the extremeties that the ride height can travel. maximum and minimum compression/extension. so as long as the shocks are short enough to allow the wheels to move towards the car enough, but also long enough so that they can move away from the car (called "droop") then you should be fine. you don't want your shocks topping out on extension, or bottoming out on compression, or it will damage them and your car will handle like poo!

nah sierra shocks are rubbish, waaaayyyy to short! and hes only dropping 2.5" or whatever. to thread starter: your gonna have to read more.... head over to ae86drivingclub.com, check out the tech articles it depends how far you want to go, if you just want a bit lower, get some king springs and be done with it. if you actually want decent suspension your goin to need short stroke shocks and springs all round. unfortunately ke70 front struts do not accomodate for short stroke shocks, so you need to upgrade them first. front: getting some ae86 complete struts will give you the ability to get some decent short stroke shocks, pluss you will get a slight upgrade. and your current wheels will fit on. ae86 will also allow you to get jdm vented discs and apropriate calipers for more brake upgrade (all this will bolt into your ke70 no problems) get some decent shocks (brand new get the part number from ae86drivingclub tech articles) get some decent springs, from one of the sponsours around. research waht spring rate you think you will like, or find people to take you for a drive in their car so you get the idea. you can go all out and buy some adjustable coilovers, but they are gonna cost ya, and might not be worth it if your not gonna be fiddling with the settings everyday. while your up the front you can get a bit more camber by buying some longer control arms (some sort of corona i beilve) or do it 'properly' by aquiring some adjustable camber plates. rear: any sort of stiffer spring is good here, cut falcon AU springs work (that what i got). youll need some better shock absorbers too. there is a commondore shock part number 343113 that i use that is pretty good. short stroke and reasonable stiff. youll need an adjustable pan hard rod as well so you can keep your diff in the middle. thats about all you need for the rear to get you started and your goin to have to cut your rear bump stops off. good luck

well its been a while..... but i bring updates of the cool kind! on the australia day weekend me and my mate started putting in the 4age. friday night: rip appart dash, remove ke70 pedal box, half install ae71 box, disconnect half of 4k engine. sleep at midnight. saturday: 4k came out in about the first hour, drilled hole for ae71 pedal box, fitted clutch master and clutch line, changed crossmember to ae71, plonked in 4age. sick of it by this stage so called it a day! sunday: fitted alternator, measured up the belt and went and bought it. half put in the loom. drove to ipswitch to get a ae71 gbox xmember. church time, enough of corolla gave up for the day. monday (australia day): bolted vl turbo fuel pump to car connected pipes. beerhead comes round about midday and does a crack of a job with the wiring, hes good this bloke! we get the wiring sorted by about 6pm. time to see if it starts. get a bit of a cough out of it, fix timing, get it to run for the first time at around 9pm. time to call it a day. at this stage I'm thinking that i may have just converted my ke70 to 4age in 4 days. but it was not to be. get home from work on tuesday....and find THE SUMP IS FULL OF WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm extremely annoyed at this point in time.....so i leave it for a few days. by thursday the head is off and time to inspect the damage. head gasket is VERY soggy so that isnt good. long story short, took the head down to the machinist and he checks it out, it is in good order but needs a few new valves. all up 300$ including a shave to make it nice and clean. best part is its brand new looking! nice and shiny from the acid clean. head is back by the following friday. plonk it back on with a standard gasket and its all good. got it towed to the exhaust shop about a week later, got me 2.25" with a resonator, new cat and a muffler out the back. has a nice note to it, but its a tad loud....not really raspy though which is good! teething problems are always present with these things, needed to get my injectors cleaned and some new spark plugs. also needed a new tps but i had a spare. also had some mega vacuum leaks but fixed them up. and so this is the completed product! and hese a pic of the exhaust, got a cool little dump pipe lookin thing, and the exhaust man painted the whole thing black which is quite cool too. the lowest part of the whole car is now the bottom of the secondaries on the stock jdm extractors so i think thats pretty good! i have since got it mod plated by a mate from church (nice and easy hehe) and am currently organising insurance that will hopefully cover all these mods!! also ive just realised i havent put up any pics of my new lip that i got from little red spirit! cheers again matt! and heres about the only pic i can find of the rear of the car with the new exhaust, pretty "stealth" id say, can't see crap! so overall I'm extremely happy with the 4age, its like a different car to drive now, so much fun!! as for future plans: -really need some new seats to hold me in....stock ke seats suck! -also really need an LSD! might get mr rudd to pay for one with his free money. -need to fit my strut brace -need to get a full nolathane? bush kit,tighten everything up! -woudl like to clean up the interiour a bit, get a non cracked dash, and possibly some new carpet. i bought some el cheapo dark blue seat covers yesty, makes it look a bit nicer! but mostly i just want to DRIVE!!!!!!! went for a hlls drive last weekend, stacks of fun, woudl like to enter some sprints maybe? or hill climbs..i dunno....something fun anyway. will give this drifting a go once i get a lsd i reckon. anyway this is one epic post...hope ya like the blue car!

thought you said you were on a budget mate? how much you think an xr6 motor is gonna cost to start with? unless you can weld well enough to make, firewall mods (if its only for club at least move the v6 back), custom tailshaft, custom engine mounts, custom everything else! its gonna be VERY expensive. and a v6 on carby? prolly easier just to wire up the efi. your gonna need some pretty expensive carbys to get it running well, and then you gota pay for someone to tune them...and thats not cheap either. and 120kgs is a whole lot more than you think. stocko ke70 is like 1000kg, so your looking at adding an aditional 10%+ to the car (since i think ke is less than 1000kg but will use it to be safe). though i think youll find a bare xr6 motor will prolly fall into the 100-120kg mark (not aditional) so thats prolly an aditional 60kg or something over a 4k. v6 is a better choice than a v8 as its shorter and you can get most of it positioned nicely, but still.....for all that effort, prolly just better to get a 4agze or something. but yeah as you asked for my oppion i think a v6 is a bad choice, the good thing about these light corollas is exactly that...light and nimble, i think a chunky v6 will be detromental unfortunately especaily if you intend on using it for rally sport which requires a stack of car control. if it was a burnout car id say go for it. but id say put in a v8 then! good luck on whatever you do though. and post pics too.