ke70dave

the best thing to ask is specific questions mate ive helped a mate perform ca18 into an 86. same as ke70 once you put in a hydraulic clutch. its quite straight forward. what do you want to know?

you will need an engineers certificate for any engine change you perform. why don't you want an engineers certificate? p-plater? my engineering certificate/mod plate took 10mins and cost $80 for my engine conversion, though it was only 4age into ke70.

find a peice of string. measure it. Thats how much its gonna cost. theres not much point asking questions like that around here I'm afraid. lets jsut say if you are going to pay someone to do what you are suggesting, it wont be worth it!

dude I'm on page 12 of your thread. and all i can see, your work is incredible! damn you must have fun in that car!!! ill keep reading through.... unlucky about the bonnet deciding to pop up! edit well i finished reading the thread. can we have another video as it is now? i just love the "ill make it fit" attitude!

damn straight.... i liked the first 2 pics! but....if he likes it....i guess its good then.

yeah good point you can just use a socket to hit the outer race in as well. just have to have a few nice big ones to get the right size.

the wrecker near me is sometimes good and other times bad. they know what they have in the park, and they know how to charge for stuff that is rare..... they knew exactly what a 4age was, and what people put them in. i went to buy a tps for 4age, and they refused to seperate it from the throttle body, which they wanted $130 for.... but stuff off a ke70 is cheap as! and they seem to hang onto older cars for a while.

the greese method sounds rather......agricultural... but if it works, it works. i remember spending a few hours trying to get one out of an s13. they are a little different to 4age ones (and ive not seen a 4k one). more of a bush than a bearing. looked like a small peice of copper piping. We tried everything. got fed up. bought the tool. came out in like 10secs.

hey champ yeah mate its called a "pilot bearing puller" around $50 or so. you wont get it out without one!

assuming your talking about the indicators in the bars, ae82 bumper indicators fit perfectly. the lens is the exact right shape. you just have to work out how to mount them in there as the mounting brackets are totally different. i had same problem as you when i put my t18 bars on. i just went to the wreckers and found ae82's were a good option.

right update time!!! right well it has been a while since updates. not a whole lot has happend ive given the wheels a nice coat of paint ($2 export!) which is working alot better than i thought it would..... i have put some uber long wheel studds on the back, remind me of those spikey things that they put on the chariots..... ive put my surge tank system, theres a pic down there, working brilliantly, nice and quiet! ive also bought a A J P S t50 shifter bush rebuild kit thing. if any of you have a t50... and you don't have one of these...go and buy one!!!! much nicer gear changes. thanks again mr A. J. P. S. (when is rollaclub going to grow up and stop the A. J. P. S filter...) anyway heres some pretty pics of the blackened wheels I'm also on the look out for a t series diff too if anyone has one.. oh and i got me a recaro as well!

what ever you do don't put on any NEGATIVE castor!!! that wont go well.. id suggest a few degrees of positive camber (pulling the wheel forward in reference to the strut top) since you are only running 1 degree of static camber, a few degrees of castor will work well in inducing some dynamic camber. essentially its up to you really, get say +3 camber dialed in, and see if you like it. more positive castor will make the steering a bit heavier when going slow, but it will make the car track better at higher speed. for the record i have had zero castor on my ke, with -2 degrees of camber, for about a year now. and its ok. but i find the steering is too light on the highway. gonna wind it up a bit when i install the new castor bushes

yeah I'm not actually drilling a hole through the brass fitting. I'm meerly drilling into the fitting to create a cavity (that wont actually get wet) then putting the thermister into said cavity, and seeling it off with silicon. (remember the thermister is like 3mm long and 1mm wide) in heinsight i really shoudlnt have bothered with all this, and just used a temperature switch off a FWD car. but oh well, keeps me amused.

well currently mine is just attached to the radiator right where the top pipe joins it. its a little dodgy. but it appears to give good enough readings to keep the water temperature in check. but i bought one of those little radiator joiner pipes, that have provision to put a sender. (picked it up for cheap from repco, like D1 brand or some crap) so what i did then was bought a copper plug that fits in the thread, and then I'm going to drill a small hole in the top of the plug, and then silicon the thermistor in there. its been on the "list of things to do" for a while now...

i remember asking a simliar thing a few years ago, when i was installing a temp controller circuit kit thing i bought from jaycar. my 4age runs at 82 degrees, under most all driving conditions (cruising thrashing, idling). the temp only goes up if I'm stopped for prolly longer than 5mins. so what i did was i set the thermo fan to come on at 90 degrees and turn off when it got to 85 degrees (mine had a hysteresis setting), and it only ever comes on if I'm stopped for longer than 5mins or if driving uber slow around a car park etc. the best thing to do is just experiment, you don't want the fan coming on all the time, or its just wearing the poor thing out unnecessarily. i just put the temp sensor in the top radiator pipe, seemed to work well enough!

is the head still straight? how did you blow it? overheating? 4k head is soo small it doesnt take much overheating to warp it = blown gasket.

hmm thanks for the replys guys looks like ive been given some wrong information from the exhaust shop. i thoguht it was a bit too easy if this other muffler was the solution. philby when you say "proper muffler" are you refering to a baffled muffler? or do you have any suggestions on a decent muffler? i thought huricane was supposed to be pretty good? apparently not for my wanting. i still have the resonator that they took out so getting that put back in isnt a problem.

well folks i have a tech Q for you tech heads. wasnt exactly sure where to put it so i chose general mechanical. anyway. the details: ke70 poorolla standard jap 4age jap ecu standard jap exhaust manifold and secondaries. 2.25" pipes all the way, over diff rest of exhaust system : high flow cat convertor 2 straight through mufflers, one just before the diff, and one after. i belive they are both the same "huricane". ok the problem: my original exhaust i had a "resonator" where one of the straight through mufflers is now. the problem was it was just to loud for my liking. it was ok when you wanted to have fun. but listening to music was a non event on the highway, as the drone was terribe. so i took it down to an exhaust shop and got them to take out the resonator, and put a muffler in instead (their recomendation). as my understanding is that a resonator is just a small muffler? thats what he told me anyway.. now with the new setup (dual mufflers) the noise is perfect. has a nice note when you put your foot down (and i can hear the intake roar more!) and when cruising its almost silent, just a slight brrrrr in the background. EXCEPT i have some epic resonance at certain frequencies, thus certain RPM. the frequencies being 1200rpm, 2000rpm, 3700rpm, 4500rpm, and around 5700 rpm. only aproximate values from my standard tacho. by resonance i mean that the exhaust gets REAAALLLYYY loud for a very very narrow band of RPM (ash tray shaking, tool box shakes in the boot, all plastic parts rattle, my bones shake etc). so anyone know any decent methods to move the natural frequencies of my exhaust system out of my rev range???? i thought about putting the old resonator in as well as the new muffler, but i dunno if it would even fit. and then i might lose all exhaust note.

unfortunately from personal experience, i know that this doesnt work. back end of year 12 had my little mazda 323, with not the best stereo but it was my pride and joy. with a nice little flashing LED on the dash. came on whenever the ignition was turned off. some little 14yr old punk (that they caught), broke in stole all my stereo gear and few other random items. and the only way they couldnt steal the car was because i had a steering lock on it. so they just let the handbrake off and pushed it into my fence. oh yeah i was asleep like 30m away from it too.... to the original poster, unlucky mate! but luckily you still have the car. and luckily corolla parts are cheap to replace. btw what kind of car was it?

thats a nice setup there corolla_nut certainly some nice engineering gone into that setup. i do have one question though. when the fan isn't in use i'm just wondering how much that shroud would be restricting the natural air flow when driving along normally. since you only really need the fan when the car is stationary or going up a hill under full load or something. i know in my car i rarely ever turn on my fan (i have an override switch, since my little temperature circuit is being a pain) only in car parks or traffic.

yeah I'm with mr tas_ae71 i put a thermo fan on my little 4k radiator a few years back. just put the little cable tie things through the fins and its been fine. the main thing to make sure is that it is tight against the radiator, and it is KEPT tight. the way you are gonna destroy your radiator is by the fan moving around, and rubbing up against the radiator (on bumps etc). wearing through the metal fins/channels. obviosly the best way is to make some brackets. or better yet, get a new radiator that has factory thermo fans built in. they are also better because they have a shroud built in. popular options being hyundai excel or camry. pretty much anything FWD.

have you done what was suggested above? Searched around? if so what have you learnt?

also remember that the injectors being "loose" in the head will also create vacuum leaks = bad. when i put my 4age together, i got my injectors cleaned, some dude came around in a van, put them on his machine for 15mins,gave me a print out on the flow test, and put new rubbers on all of them, was like $120! bargain!

one way to tell if its diff or gearbox is to put the car into neutral when your at 80k's and see if it still whines. and try 3rd gear at 80k's and see if it whines. most diffs in these old corollas are buggered by now. time for an overhaul. but yeah get a 5speed box and a 4.3 auto diff, then overhaul that one! (btw 4.3 diff give you more acceleration for the poor 4k) my t50 box whines in 5th gear, and only 5th gear. kinda annoying, but over 80k's you can't hear anything cept for exhaust anyway so its all good:P

if any one EVER sends me a text message that resembles that kind of spelling, theres no way i am replying!!!! i don't care if it takes you a few more minuites to type, proper words only please!!! as for something to do to a 4k? throwing it into a lake is a good thing, quite fun too id imagine. and if you used to have a worked starlet just do what you did on that?