Banjo

I've only done it twice in my life, but a foot of broom handle, a rasp, & 30 mins of patience, can produce a clutch plate alignment tool that works well.

Hi Jasper, Just back from the shops. Unless you have a drill & easy-out to remove the broken bolt, you probably haven't many other options, if you are heading off tomorrow. As it is a long drive, you won't be changing gear that much, until very close to home. Think you'll be right. Just don't red-line it on the way home. Ha Ha ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Jasper, The return spring is on the outside of the gearbox & is purely there to return the clutch arm to a point where the throw-out bearing is not in touch with the pressure plate fingers. The only way that the clutch could be partial engaged, is if the clutch cable adjustment at the firewall, was such, that there was no freeplay at all in the clutch pedal at all. Highly unlikely, that is the cause of your slipping. Make sure the clutch cable inner moves freely, inside its sleeve. It is a good idea to remove the cable, hang it vertically, & feed oil down it's inside. Let us know how you fare. Cheers Banjo

I've never used a gearbox jack ! Serious; & I'm average & definitely don't pump iron. Cheers Banjo.

Hi Jasper, Gearbox removal in your Rolla is fairly easy, & accomplished with very few tools, but there are a couple of prerequisites, I suggest you do. 1. Before you do anything, lift the bonnet, & take off one end of the top radiator hose. 2. Also crack the two (2) off 17mm bolts at the top of the bell housing from inside the engine bay. 3. The most important thing is to get the car up as high as possible at both ends, on a concrete pad, and make sure it is super substantial & very safe. Cannot stress this enough. 4. Take the gear stick & boot out. Disconnect the speedo cable. 5. The rest is easy. I've done it many times without a gearbox jack. Lie on your back, parallel to the car, with your head towards the back of the car. Slide the gearbox off & sit the gearbox on your stomach, then lower to the ground beside you. 6. Reinstall the gearbox the same way. 7. The clutch driven plate can be realigned without a realignment tool. Assemble by sight but only just nip up the pressure plate bolts. Slide the gearbox on to align the driven/friction plate perfectly. Slide the gearbox off. Tighten the pressure plate retaining bolts evenly working from one side to the other. 8. Reinstall gearbox. 9. You biggest problem might be refilling the gearbox with oil, if you don't have a large oil siringe. P.S. A pressure can of super degreaser from SCA, and a bit of emery paper to rough up the flywheel & pressure plate surfaces should get you back to Melbourne. Good Luck ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, If RobRoy can't help, or their solution involves hacking your existing dizzy too much, another alternative is to get another DENSO 3K dizzy, & fit the Accuspark to it. I've got a really good 3K dizzy you can have, if needs be, like the one pictured earlier in this thread. The 3K dizzy is a lot smaller than the Bosch dizzies, so is really neat. Cheers Banjo

Good luck Pete ! Silicon Chip don't usually tell you what they have got in the pipeline, until the month before. The only thing that would be a welcome upgrade would be a PC interface, so you could set the programmable ignition up, without the hand controller. That said, once you get the advance curve right, the controller is not needed again, unless you want to use it as a real-time readout. With the knock sensor and it's ability to retard at first sign of detonation, you can really give it a fair amount of advance, & then note the operational points, where the knock sensor activates, & then back off the map in that area. I read an article by Julian Edgar, (whom I believe was involved with John Clark at Silicon Chip, in the original design of this project) about using a simple acoustic pickup with amplifier & headphones to pick up the onset of detonation. Julian has always advocated that the two best tools for tuning a car on the road is the acoustic detonation device, & a O2 sensor with dash readout. His articles on AutoSpeed are always a good read. Cheers Banjo

I had an aftermarket pressure plate (out of India) do a similar thing, several years ago. The spring steel material wasn't up to scratch, & lost tension, but not as quickly as what you just described. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jasper, If it is an oil seal which has finally broken up, then that could well put a lot of oil into the clutch area. The flywheel will fling it around everywhere. With the rubber boot off, and a torch, you will see that clearly. Don't think you can degease it, but even if you could, it would oil up quickly, and you could get stuck half way home. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jasper, If there is no severe noise, & it is still slightly driveable, then the centre of the friction/driven plate has not torn out, or something horrific like that. It sounds like the metal diaphram on the pressure plate might have let go. Strange that it happened so swiftly. My suggestion is get it on some ramps or a hoist, & and see what you can see from underneath. Remove spring & clutch cable from the clutch arm, & then remove the rubber boot. Reinstall cable & return spring, & with someone pushing the clutch in & out, someone underneath with a torch can see whether clutch cable & arm & throw-out bearing are all working OK, and there is some resistance when the clutch pedal is pushed right to the floor, and the throw-out bearing presses against the pressure plate fingers. If this checks out OK, then I'm afraid the gearbox, will have to come out, as nothing externally can solve this issue. P.S. Is there any oil leak underneath the gearbox. A rear engine seal going could cover the clutch plate, & make it slip, but It would have to be a lot of oil. Cheers Banjo

Was there any noise associated with it slipping ? Where abouts in Canberra are you, Jasper. I happen to be in Bruce ATM. Cheers Banjo

Early in this thread, I mentioned the Jaycar programmable ignition system, which I have had in my KE30 2 door for a number of years. These modules can be triggered by various means, including points, if you so desire. This kit from Jaycar was released in 2007, so it is 10 years olde. It was one of Silicon Chips most successful kits. I notice Jaycar are selling them out at present. Originally, they sold for nearly $ 100.00. At the moment they are $ 22.92 ea. https://www.jaycar.com.au/programmable-high-energy-ignition-system/p/KC5442 If you want to get into programmable ignition at a basement bargain price, then now is the time. Jaycar are out of stock, for on-line sales, but various Jaycar stores around Australia have them in stock. Just click on the store check, in the link above, & pop in your postcode, to find the nearest store. Most stores in Brisbane have them. I happened to be in Canberra at the moment, & picked up their last two kits at Jaycar's Fyshwick store this morning. The Programmable Ignition System kit comes with comprehensive instructions. Not normally available on-line, but found a website where someone has posted it, if anyone wants to have a read of it's capabilities. http://www.vespalabs.org/@api/deki/files/479/=kc5442_Programmable_High_Energy_Ignition_System.pdf Cheers Banjo

Hi Jeremy, I must comment on your following statement. There is no "constant flow of high current to power the hall effect sensor". That is quiet untrue. The Hall Effect sensor is a low voltage, extremely low current device that senses a magnetic field (usually a north pole) and produces a sharp DC voltage step change, which is used as a trigger signal. The amount of current drawn by this sensor is miniscule. It is true that the reluctance sensor is just a coil, which produces a small AC voltage waveform, when the metalic vane passes it. It has a few problems though, in that the AC waveform output is dependent on speed, so when you are starting the car, & it is cranking over, the output is at its lowest, which is just the time you want the best & highest signal. The Hall Effect device is totally unaffected by the speed of rotation. The reluctance sensor's output being a rough sinewave, is not suitable as a trigger signal, so some processing of this signal has to be carried out, to turn it into a square wave, so it can be effectively used as a trigger signal. However, I agree they are very reliable & were fitted to many cars in the past as a first transistion, by manufactures away from "points" systems. The high current switched by any ignition ignitor, is always a function of the particular coil used, & it's primary resistance. Like any device, there are a range of ignitors, with different max. current carrying capacities. I have ignitors here capable of 4A max, 9A max. 16A max & 19A max. It's simply a case of matching coil & & ignitor to suit. The 4A capacity of the Accuspark, is well capable of handling the coils fitted to many cars, as per their listings, and are ideally suited to our Rollas with standard ignition coils, with or without ballast resistors. Low ohm primary ignition coils are only really required on 6 & 8 cylinder engines, where charging time has to be reduced to allow full charging & full output of the coil at higher revs. Our Rollas are a 4 cylinder car, so there is rarely an issue there or need for a low ohm coil, unless you are red-lining at 8000 rpm regularly ! Cheers Banjo

Hey Wayne, Probably so many over there they use them as boat anchors !

Hi Jeremy, Good point ! Sorry if my wiring diagram above confused anyone. My coil is 1.4 ohms, but is only switched by the Accuspark during starting. As soon as the engine starts, it switches over to the Jaycar programmable controller. The Jaycar fires an external ignitor, of my own making, which can handle currents up to 16 amperes, so handles the 1.4 ohm primary coil OK. The Accuspark has no trouble handling the 1.4 ohm coil current, as it is only for a few seconds, until the engine starts. I did this, because the Jaycar unit seemed to need the engine to turn over a few times, to gets its inputs right, before doing its calculation & outputting a firing pulse . By using the Accuspark to start the engine, it starts instantly every time, just like my wife's late model Corolla. Lots of people comment, how easily & quickly my Rolla starts. Putting excess current through the Accuspark will not kill it instantly. They only fail when subjected to high current for some time, when heat is built up in the module, and the internal electronic fail. The electronic 5K dizzies do the same, if low ohm primary coils are used. They won't instantly fail, but will over time. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, Yes, as Parrot says, contact the guys at RobRoy in Melbourne & tell them you have a 4K with a Bosch dizzy, & they will fix you up. They have done it before. https://www.robroyhistoricgarage.com.au/contact_us.html You won't regret it. Parrot has been looking at the Accuspark Black Box programmable ignition module. Haven't played with it myself, but It has good reports. The Black Box only allows 7 off points to map the curve. The Jaycar has twice that number of points, so is a smoother curve. The advantage of the Accuspark is that you will never ever have to readjust the points again. There is no gap setting. There are two things that upset the old points system on olde dizzies. With new points, perfectly adjusted, in theory you will get excellent results straight away. Fortunately it is all down hill from that point on. It's not just the points. The rubbing block material doesn't seem to be as good as it was years ago. The blocks wear down, the points gap reduces & the timing also changes. The real culprit is the uneven wear on the lobes on the shaft. This has the gap changing constantly & timing jumping around. Altezzaclub has a good trick to show this effect, by putting the timing light pickup on the lead out of the dizzy, rather than no: 1 Spark Plug. If the timing marks indicates it jumping around, there is a good chance you've got a worn shaft and/or worn lobes. Accuspark overcomes all those problems, as there is no contact & the gap movement is non critical. I would recommend if you are going to fit the Accuspark, that it is worth taking out the base plate in the dizzy, & inspecting, cleaning & oiling the bob weights, springs & pivots. If the pivots are very worn, they can catch, & you will never get full advance. Unfortunately, hidden down under the dizzy top plate, they are out of site, & often forgotten, but are so crucial for good performance. Here are a couple of pics showing how clean the Accuspark mod is in the dizzy, and my Jaycar system hidden down on the passengers side. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Yes it is a real no brainer ! Unlike a conventional dizzy, where wear in the shaft, bushes, & cam itself, causes "wobble", and directly effects the points gap, & timing, the Accuspark, and others like it, don't care at all. There is no "contact", just a small air gap between the embedded 4 off magnets on the shaft "slip on", & the single Hall Effect sensor in the module itself. The gap is not even critical, and is typically 1mm. The important thing is it must not touch. The module is just what it says; it is a points replacement module. It has no real "smarts" in it, so it does not provide centifugal advance etc. Vacuum & Centifugal advance is still a function of the distributor itself, so they must be in good condition. I guess that is why some people go for the ebay new aftermarket dizzies, as you get new bob weighs & vacuum unit. However, I always wonder what advance curve they offer. The ones on the net, were for 5Ks, which were used in commercial vehicles, & not really an appropriate curve to get good top end performance when placed in a road car. I should declare, that although I use the Accuspark, I don't use it to charge & switch the coil, as intended. Instead of the coil, I have a 100 ohm resistor tied to +12V, and this produces a lovely square waveform, which I use to trigger the input of a Jaycar programmable ignition system, where you can set the advance curve easily to anything you want or need. My dear olde Denso 3K dizzy (smallest one ever fitted to Rollas) has been gutted, & the bob weights removed & the two ends of the shaft locked together with tie wire & Araldite, so there is no movement at all. Absolutely perfect result, which once I got the curve right, has never been touched since. As Rollas were purposely detuned ignition curve wise, to limit top end, to avoid warranty claims in Toyotas early days into mass production, I estimate I've unleashed another 10 HP out of my 42 year olde Rolla. One day I must put it on a dyno & see. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, Here is where you can get it in Australia. Free Postage, & only $ 75.00. They have come down in price, as I'm sure I paid about $ 96.00 a couple of years ago. This one suits the Denso dizzy. Check, just to make sure your dizzy is not a Bosch one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-3K-4K-Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-kit-for-Nippon-Denso/162755909396?hash=item25e5021714:g:RHoAAOxycERRlJP2 If your coil has a primary resistance lest than 3.0 ohms, without ballast resistor (highly unlikely) you may have to replace it. Have a read of Accusparks details instructions & considerations. Everything thing is covered including wiring diagrams for every possible wiring scenario you may have on your KE70. Total resistance switched by the Accuspark must be no lower than 3.0 ohm, whether coil by itself, or coil + ballast resistor Coil = 3.0 ohms ) no ballast resistor. Coil = 1.5 ohm = ballast resistor = 1.5 ohm. Total 3.0 ohms. http://www.accuspark.co.uk/fitting_guide.html If you want to go this way, I'm only too happy to call by your place in Buccan & give you a hand. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, Agree with everything Pete has said above. I to am a traditionalist, to some extent, & the simplest, & most effective way to remove the issue of the points, is to use an electronic module, that simply replaces the points. There are various types, like Hot Spark, Pertronix etc. I used an Accuspark, which are available here in Australia (Melbourne) on line. Here is a video of how simple it really is to swap the system over. About 30 mins. if you take your time, & know exactly what you've got to do, before you start. Have a look at this video, & see what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lcx_Qr0KyM I'll add a post with a link to where you can get them in Australia & cost etc. There are a few checks you should do before ordering the kit. 1. The dizzy make & model you already have fitted, as Parrot has mentioned above. 2. The coil fitted, as these small "points replacement" modules cannot handle coils with very low primary winding resistances. I've been running one for several years now, & it is faultless. In the old days, I've only had points fail on me once, whilst out on the road, but I always kept a set of points in the glove box, so never got really stuck, like your girl. P.S. The beauty of these systems is, that they use your distributor cap, where under it, is hidden all the components of this system. Someone lifting your bonnet, would never know you have an electronic system fitted. Cheers Banjo

Not too sure about the KE20, but on the KE30 series, the turn indicator flasher relay is in behind the "kick panel" down near the drivers foot. I would imagine the KE20 flasher is in a similar position. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jeremy, You've missed the point about the extra external resistor. It does not reduce the time to saturate the coil as you state. It is out of circuit (s/c ) whilst starting, so the saturation can be reached. It is in circuit, so the coil only sees 9 volts across it, whilst running at alternator volts, because coils that need a ballast resistor, are designed for 9 volts. Cheers. Banjo

OMG ! Graeme; just put a bit of a bend in each end of it, & leave it on there, & you'll get a bit more airflow through that radiator ! P.S. Could also be of assistance when driving through "long grass" out Buccan way. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, Did you eventually get that crankshaft pulley nut off ? Cheers Banjo

Ha ! It has to fit inside a 14" wheel. That was my requirement also, & my combo worked perfectly. Not much clearance though. I remember the first time I had the wheels balanced, they stuck the weights on the inside of the rim, on the flat ... you guessed it, where the caliper was closest. Crunch, & they had to do it again. Off memory, the XT130 mounts were 90mm, & the RA65s were 100mm. I'll see if I can find my olde posts. Here is one of them, back in 2012. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/63524-ke-3055-brake-upgrade/ Cheers Banjo

Hi Jeremy, The energy stored by the coil after it reaches saturation, has nothing really to do with amps or volts or resistance. It has everything to do with the inductance of the coil, which is specified in units called Milli Henries. It's the capacity of the coil to hold a charge of a given size. Think of the coil as a bucket of water, which you are filling up constantly & then tipping over someones head, say every minute. The capacity of the bucket is the equivalent of the energy stored. A small bucket fills quickly, but does hold as much water as a bigger bucket. However, the larger bucket takes more than a minute to fill, so you never get to tip the bucket over some ones head, at the required rate. So you need the bigger bucket to store the amount of water needed to wet this person thoroughly. So, how can you get the water into the bucket quicker. Your stuck with water pressure (12 volts) but you could use a bigger diameter hose (lower resistance). The result is greater flow of water, (more amps) That's about the simplest analogy I can think of. The problem here is the time to fill the bucket up. To continue the analogy, when the bucket fills up, & you keep pouring in water, it overflows. The bucket has reached full charge (saturation). http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ignition-coil-tech/ Have a read of the above article. It covers lots of things we have been discussing in every day terms. It might help you understand the subject a little better. So this talk of lower resistance & higher currents is all about getting the max. charge into the coil, in the shortest time. Lower the resistance which ups the amps, both result in the charge reaching saturation earlier. If the charge in the coil in not max. when the spark plug is fired, then the duration of the spark inside the combustion chamber will not be sustained long enough to satisfy complete combustion. Here is another good read, that has some formulae therein for charge of an ignition coil. "L" is the inductance. http://www.instructables.com/id/Ignition-Coil-High-Voltage-Display/ Hope that helps. Cheers Banjo