philbey

yep, black wheel would look good, too. Mate, seeing as you're in the mood for prompt replies, I have a couple of questions: - How long did it take you to strip the actual paint (ie, not counting pulling the car apart) - Did you use just the air sander, or did you use chemical stripper as well - What brand sander and what size compressor? i have some project plans in the works you see haha.

yeh thats tough as. I dig it. A black one would be good too.

i parked my ke10 in a quiet sidestreet once and proceeded to the pub for a riot of an evening Next day, I came to pick it up to discover the whole drivers door was dented in. A bit of "elementary my dear watson" detectiving and I found the whore who did it behind the first door I knocked on. Blind old bat had realised she did it, taken a look, seen the white scuff marks and thought that was all the damage - Didnt even pick that the WHOLE door was a big dent. She gave me a card of a bloke that she regularly uses to pull dents out of her car, funnily enough! Stupid bitch then proceeded to lecture me on why I shouldn't park opposite someones driveway! hahah. No kidding I didnt know that was a road rule. Maybe she should learn to back a car god damnit!

mate, I'll grab some crude measurements tonight, but only the front two (Wagon) The very front one will be tricky - not sure how high up you want me to take the measurement. The F wheel arch to door I will measure along the bottom of the body. tp

yeh, and thats nowhere near as bad as how your money seems to burn away to nothing is it! haha. Felix, any more details on how you KO'd yourself with a ratchet!

I'm interested in where to get the Steam pipe as well. Cutting and welding cast iron is rife with issues, mainly it will be prone to cracking. Try and keep plenty of heat in the manifold by using an oxy torch on it, and definitely don't drop it in water to cool it, let it cool slowly.

nah, I have a red '78 911SC. I'm keen to go for a cruise, but It's going to get some front koni's and some better tyres on the front Its no drag car but its great through the windy bits.

damn man, if you get a bit of engine shudder happening (like if it starts dieseling on a hot day) you'll destroy those trumpets when they punch into the strut tower! In my list of many projects, I'm keen to make up an airbox to fit twin 40s into a rolla. Easy enough to lasercut and fold.

there's some quick beetles out there man, don't be to dismayed when one beats your ass. Seriously though, my 3K toyoglide will definitely be the slowest car there.

ha. Not quite. bought a dismantled 5k, and all but on were intact...

No idea what the factory wastegate is set too, just stick a bleeder in and set the boost to what you want. As for Carby: 32/36 should be fairly straightfoward. The fuel bowl has a vent next to the throats and an external vent. If you block the external vent then the fuel bowl will see the boost pressure. And if you really do drive it hard, I'll give you 3 weeks.

unifilters prices for those socks are awesome! 57 bucks for a set of 4. Most joints charge about 45 bucks for 2! I notice that unifilter has replacements to fit the Ramflo filter units - that could be a good option, because they are usually quite low profile units.

Mate, any mechanic that lets you look over his shoulder while he looks at your car, gives you an honest opinion about keeping a motor that has a problem instead of charging through the nose for the repair is worth his weight in gold. My CA18 turbo ran with dodgy head gasket for months before it even started getting oil in the coolant. Mybowlcut, if you take it easy on your car and keep an eye out for signs of its performance dropping (as you already noticed) you'll be fine.

Apparently there was a matte black Model A hotrod at the motorshow - if anyone got a piccie of it, I'd be very grateful!

i didnt hit myself in the head, but belting the end of the thread with a hammer was nasty enough - two hours with a small watchmakers file before I could get the nut back on..... ahh, to be a teenager again!

Mate, even better, call it a Rocket cover hahahahahaha. The downdraft Webers generally have a good rep for a nice balance of economy and extra power when you want it. As for fitting one, I am guessing you will need an adaptor plate, usually found on ebay or your local parts store (~50 new) TP.

Not quite: Compression remains the same, but you can run LPG At a higher compression ratio than petrol. I have considered LPG in the past, but once you start looking into it, theres a whole lot of stuff to do all with dollar tags. There used to be a supercharged LPG 5k getting around melbourne though, so its definitely acheivable. Just pull the slugs out, get them dished, whack em in at lower comp and off you go. Go for medium compression (9ish) and medium boost, game on!

could go Rod style bellmouths with gauze mesh filters in the ends of them. Cool looking.

I might roll down, not sure about the cruise, its a toyoglide after all.

damn looking at that fitment, i'm going to have a great time getting mine into the ke10! I notice you say you changed the jets, but have you gone through the motions of tuning the carb>?

Those are my exact thoughts as far as the cam with the auto. I spoke to Kangaroosa, and his cam kicks in about 3k, peak at 5700. Plenty of low end grunt and shouldnt be too lumpy. This motor isn't intended to be a powerhouse, just give my toyoglide plenty of torque to pull me up hills. What other options do I have for Springs?

Damn man you're an addict to those rims.

Yeh, API. I was originally going to Lonsdale Engine Workz but I couldnt find them and Toyoland guy recommended API, he's always used them with success. Cam, I think he said they sell Duralite pistons, which are ACLs are they not? He reckoned they are higher spec than factory at least, so that should be fine. Dual row cam drive is easy, I have one out of another 5k that I bought in pieces. Springs I will chase once I am closer to getting the head in my hands. I will probably be doing a bulk of the work myself. I will go talk to him about what I can do to save costs. Good question about the crank though, is it imperative that I get a regrind? I have 2 to choose from, i figured if I can get away without, then why not. I'll be getting another car soon to use as a dummy to fit up and work out Aircleaner issues. I can get reasonably tricky with a slimline airbox, maybe I can flog them to other 10 owners if I get a good solution!

Just a generalisation, any panel that cheap, built for a speedway car, will probably look pretty wobbly with a gloss paintjob, and wont be superbly trimmed.

I have gone to API Engines in Lonsdale. They were recommended by Toyoland around the corner. As for balance, i'm still not sure. Most likely I will get it done. Its all more than I budgeted but I still thought those were good prices overall. Head work I figured keep it simple, up compression, seat grind and port match. Its not a race car and I wont need it to breath at 9000 rpm. Do need to ask him about facing the rocker posts though. As far as the Carby fitment issue Redwarf, I have heard that before... I think I might knock up a slimline airbox for the carbs and run a hose to a pod - Cold air style. I've got access to cheep (like the budgie) laser cutting, and a bit of home welding might do the trick.