philbey

Sorry lads - breaking the firs law of thermodynamics there, but hey, if you get it to work, let me know I'd like to turn your idea into millions of dollars hahahaha Yep. Useless. But sure, you'll get 1/4 more horsepower. Cool.

I don't even know what you lot are banging on about.

Damn it. Driving home and she started boiling. Up OBR she started pinging. Just got up the last steep bit and coasted into a servo… lots of ploinking noises from steam pulsing through the donk… Fresh oil coming out of the head gasket…… oh dear. 2 phone calls and 1 minute later, and I’ve lined up a couple of free donors. 6 weeks early damn you, I have a new 5k getting built! Going to see if just a head swap will do it, fingers crossed….. But while I’m under the bonnet I’ll fit up the dellortos and measure up for my 5k….

I'm pulling my engine down this weekend due to an unexpected kerrrrrraCK in the head. Before I swap a new donk in, I'm going to bolt up my Dellortoes and take some measurements. I'll get some photos etc and post them up. I am thinking of lasercutting an airbox and running a pod off the front or even a panel across the top. Although it won't look great, it beats having socks squished up against the strut tower.

You guys have just hijacked a thread completely, go discuss poxy simmons mags in a seperate thread. Back on topic - Mate your 20 is tough looking, good work. I reckon I may have seen it around as well, is it a long-time hills car? Got any pics of the engine bay?

Its not like the ke1xs are that rare, just do it.... Sure, they're not a common occurence like an XD, but hell theres been reasonable ones on ebay every second week, as well as multiple for sale on here and ausrotary. Do it, and do it well, and noone will care. But, if you went and chopped up a ke17 SL Sprinter and did this, we'd probably shoot you! haha. Keen to see how it pans out.

With drawings, I wouldnt stress too much, but it would be handy for any engineer to look at and understand what you've done and how, rather than trying to jam his head into tight spots with poor illumination etc. Take lots of photos as you go along as well. Good luck with it. TP.

damn I just looked up inconel on matweb, its pretty crazy! I'll just stick with good old mild steel.....

Hey D Man, nice ride. Put up some pics of the interior, including your hyd. hand brake and these pedals when you get the chance. where do you usually compete?

CA18 is a top motor. Nice and compact, cheap as to get a complete one. If you look around you will get a motor box computer combination for under 1000 bucks. As for the fitment, all depends on what you make yourself. There are a couple of guys on here that have done it, some as cheap as 2k completed, some have spent over 10k. don't listen to all these SR guru's who are CA haters. Its a cool motor, and heaps of bang for buck.

I've also talked to the guys at Regency, and yeh, they were really helpful. The last car I had engineered in Victoria was also simple like turbo_rollas because it was bolt in parts, so nothing too in depth. Not sure if this applies for SA, but it needed a brake upgrade to match the new power, and this required a brake test. 10 stops from speed, cold brakes. The pedal pressure was measured and the braking G forces. Across all 10 stops, these 2 figures had to be within a tolerance band, hence metal compounds are no good as the test was with cold brakes. As for emissions, you should only have to meet the requirements for the year the car was built, so if you keep factory emissions on a motor which is newer you should be fine there. As an engineer (but not the sort that can do a car report..... yet) myself I would suggest that anything you cut and weld is the first thing you would have to worry about. For example, cutting and shutting crossmembers or engine mounts etc. If I was going to approve these mods, I'd want to see - a comparison between the standard and modified parts - Sketches, drawings, CAD models etc. More so to show you've thought about how and what you need to do, not "cut first think about later" - details of any extra material/gusseting/strengthening added with the modification - Xray report on the welds if they were really critical, or at least use a qualified welder to do the work so the engineer knows they will be kosher - even just seeing the part out of the car, unpainted would be very handy for any engineer. If you are designing the mods yourself, it would be good to ask the engineer what is the best way to do it and how to make it strong etc. Even to the point of getting him to design any really difficult stuff etc. You could do the chassis mods yourself and hide them, but if you are genuinely worried about integrity, get the engineer to advise on this as well. I'd take Ravens route, and pay a good chassis shop to do the work though. My last car was done in Vic by a VACC "engineer" who was a mechanic with some extra knowledge. In SA though they are all done by a Chartered Professional Engineer. They will probably ask you tough questions and tend to pick on you for what seem to be small items. I would suggest you go over the whole car and change every bush, wheel cylinder, brake hose, tie rod etc. You have to realise that once an engineer signs off that document, he opens himself up to liability if your modified drag link fails and you kill someone. Hence, he will want to be certain the WHOLE car is safe, roadworthy and built to a good standard, not just the 2 or 3 little bits you had to cut and shut to get the new motor in. Here is the list of DTEI recognised engineers , call them and start talking. I'm also under the impression that any CP Eng can do these reports as long as they have experience relevant to the mods. Good luck with it, and keep us informed! Cheers TP

its a simple task to fix, and they can be handy at night for reversing, funnily enough. Just trace the wire from the globes and connect that to the switch that will be dangling out your gearbox. My ke10 has them so yes you definitely will have them.

Try change the plugs I had a ca18det and it used to kill plugs unless you used Iridiums. Would be fine cruising, then as it came under load it would Chugger hahahah. New plugs and done.

Sweet, cheers Felix. Any tips on the fixed side rear window rubbers, I don't really need them except they are a bit tatty looking.

Read - Not good hahaha.

Yeh I know, I was just reiterating your point. Turbo is more likely to add heat to the charge from the exhaust heat.

Who is it? I want to get some rubbers to seal my bloody rear windows properly.

52mm! thats pretty small, the ID of a KE20 spring is something like 100mm!

Wait - before you pull it out, see how many more burnouts you can get out of it! My old housemate worked for Cat, and for their christmas breakup, they drained the oil and water out of a 120y and ran it for 10 minutes till it spat a rod. They let it cool down, started it up running on 3 and did some more burnouts. Then they auctioned off it and the winner drove over it in a D10 dozer hahaha.

You'll probably find that's becuse the the butterflies ice up and they need to defrost them. As mentioned its all personal preference what you run. Some of the blower setups are really simple with just a stromberg draw through. Some of the turbo setups are also nice and simple. Have a play, see what Ebay coughs up, work out whats cheap and try it. You'll probably blow a motor up, so get another and try again haha!

Shaneo - keep at it man, just upright it, good for you, I personally can't be bothered, there's other solutions to getting my dhla's to clear my strut tower. It will look cool too, and you'll learn some stuff. But all this bullshit talk about the extra side forces and wear and whatever mumbo jumbo people take as gospel is rubbish. The "extra side forces" everyone bangs on about is due to gravity. Thats it. The same crap that keeps you grounded. And you don't even have the full extent of gravity working against you like a boxer engine does, you've got only85% of gravity. So, the side force due to gravity is bugger all compared to the side forces of the Conrod pushing the slug into the wall when the crank is 90deg BTDC. The faster the engine is revving, the higher the side forces, the less relevant gravity is. But, just do it. Who cares. You wont see the extra power from just this mod, garaunteed, but you'll have a cool looking motor and it'll be different. Good times.

get them, measure them, there's your answer? I've only got dismanteled 5ks, so I couldnt tell you.

For the steering box, best bet is to find a second hand one that isn't thrashed. Try looking at wreckers (good luck) or put an ad in the wanted section. Someone will probably have one lying around. Worm wear will be the main cause of slop in a box, so if they couldn't rebuild that then it defeats the purpose really. For the AC, I have thought about this too. Look in the 4K Ke70's for factory (?) Air con, and pull the compressor and brackets off for a clean swap into yours. Condensor, search around a wrecker for a suitable sized one to mount in front of the Radiator (between rad and grille). The Evaporator unit, check Ebay for aircon. Always have the generic evaporator units come up, all you need to do is mount it under the dash and run the outlet hoses where you want them. OR you could look for one of the period, underdash units with chrome bits etc in old falcons and kingswoods. Then you'll need dryers and hosing, thats easy enough.

Nah, not Tarzan Grip. Selleys Gel Grip contact adhesive. Absolutely brilliant, I used it for my rear seal and it worked great.

tail light lens.... damn. Good luck on getting a new one of those!