aftermarket pumps do not suck fuel; they push it. You will need to mount the pump BELOW the fuel level for it to last and work properly.
as for the return line; you should run it back to the tank to give it a chance to cool before bieng drawn into the carb, this will aid in vaporlock problems
my 3k sump wasn't as deep as the 4k, but the 4k isn't as long
the timing chain on my 4k was a single roller, i used a stock 3k timing set with no problems
not sure if this is ontopic or not; but forgive me if is isn't,
not sure about the injectors
yes i have ONE spare computer
you are on your own for a pump and lines
the main relay is shot
NO airflow meter
no harness
i do however have a schematic of the 4ke starlet
it would be late june before i go back to california to get my Cricket (hillman avenger)
so if you're not in a hurry............
yes I'm in the u.s.
that's a small block chevy engine, those are rochester carbs, probably what came stock on late '50s early '60s pontiacs
that car has some kind of computer control; note the air temp sensor in the rear carb
what if the counter wieghts are screwed up? it could overadvance as the rpm increases
also after a hot run; those little sharp edges of carbon will glow setting off the fuel
i used an "84 starlet radiator; it's only 1 row, but it cools better than the brand new o.e. one and with a heavy-duty heater, total capacity is only 5 qts....low weight
what the hell is bog? bondo?
also, i get that problem with my wagon.....if you run the tailpipes out the sides instead of the rear that should solve your problem