greenmac80

ok so tonight the heaterhose got replaced and the radiator got flushed royally. still same kinda a crap going on. gonna try a new thermostat. then waterpump. hopefully i'll have this sorted soon.

dodgy impeller? please explain dodgy how?

well there was a lot of steam coming from the back of the head. so i'm gathering that the rear heater hose may have a hole in it. only thing is i've never noticed it leaking the car doesn't leak fluids at all. so meh i'm gonna fill it up in the morning get to work. drive home to the workshop replace that rear hose and dump the coolant and start again with that bleeding the system etc. if that doesn't fix the problem then i'll change the water pump. i'm getting soo sick of k motor and everything related i tell you. 4efe couldn't get in there quick enough. mmm new stuff.!

i can get one but in my daily car pics when i'm painting it there is pics of em as my daily has one

ah yes i do still have that been trying to decide how much to sell it for. PM me with an offer and we'll see. apart from that all my perfect doors, and dash pad are spoken for. erm the soundstream sub grill is here but yeah most of the gear has gone on the daily 30. oh the valence goes behind your front bumper in between the 2 front fenders. its a coupe one but it'll fit a sedan just looks a bit different.

most things spoken for. erm i do however have a front valence brand new that i'll part with for 100bucks.

hmm well now after a long drive it overheated badly might be fubared won't know till it cools down

hmmm i would've thought that the cooling system would bleed itself using the jiggle valve in the radiator cap. i could be wrong but i reckon i'll try that first. the sensor came off the 3k that was originally in the car. well the whole housing was this is why i don't believe that'd be it as it worked fine the entire time i've had it.

nah i have a speco one i can put in. but still i don't believe its the problem.

nah no steam jst hot boiling fluid. so yeah i guess steam. but not much temp guage works fine you'd think it would always read wrong but like i said once i've revved it it returns to normal. i suppose i can test the guage.

ok so my daily got a 4k in it. when i did the swap i put a new rad cap and thermostat in it. the water pump... according to tally was reasonably new. didn't have any problems for a few weeks. then one morning i'm cruising to work and the temp gets to 3/4's i pull over thinking wtf? check uner the engine bay to find the overflow was all good so again i was like wtf? anyways headed to work and i didn't get hot again. talked to mate and we checked my rad cap. turns out it was the wrong one 7psi and no jiggle valve so even tho the overflow was full the rad was half empty. so i got a 13psi rad cap with a jiggle valve. still nothing changed. this is the scenario.... on start up i drive. cruise down sth rd it starts getting really hot. i drop back a gear rev it out a bit and then return to normal cruising. temp drops!?? wtf? and from then i have no problems whatsoever. now this was suggested to me. water pump might be cavitating? now this may be possible but the pump is reasonably new. has anyone else had this problem or something similar? experiences etc? cheers, Luc

What'd crow slug you for the valve springs? Sounds good if there is no machining required!

welll i can let you all know that is was going to be a KE20. but that has fallen through. Now i'm looking at a KE10 and we'll see how it goes if i like i'll be picking it up next week.

there is a post in there somewhere explaining that it more than likely won't effect them. but hey yeah i can see your point. the coils aren't overly expensive and yeah cheap and easy. myself and samq are nutting out another way which will be almost as cheap and easy still using COP's and the stock ecu. and also if youlike you wouldn't have to use COP's you could use normal plugs and leads. once a kit is developed it'll be easy as.

ok you DO NOT have to go aftermarket ecu. you can remove the dizzy to the point where you still have the CAS and plate it up. then from here you use the IGT signal from the ecu and run it into 4 COP's toyota ones seem to work best 1zz 1nz etc. they are internally ignited. you then use the signal from the COP's to give the IGF signal back to the ECU. here is a thread on it and the proof it works http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=18900&page=1 have a read through its tedious but it works. and there is an explanation on why it work on the last page. great option.

the andra book would be good. also a bit on your cage in specifics. e.g. costs, materials. etc.

+ 1 for for the passivate prices! and wow that powdercoated stuff looks good!!! hehe

oh only wants the chassis rail?? or want everything else minus chassis rail?

she'll be right weld the other side up to match? stiffen up the front for better handling! oh btw people... seam welded x members help considerably.!

its not quite all of it. the fron left hand whole quarter section went to mick (raven) but yeah apart from that thats all of it. and according to the scales at the scrap yard it only weighed 160kg!

anyways so heres the end of it!

fckn awesome work man!! hey can you pm me some details on cage specifiactions etc etc.

i guess it all depends on how much of those things you can do yourself.

well from what i gather... w57 + adaptor plate works very well. on the adaptor plate you need to make engine mount tabs as there are no suitable RWD mounting points on the block. cost??? well depends if youre handy enough to do it yourself. front engine mount would be a little tricky and perhaps ugly but could be cheap to do. ie i would use tubing bent to the point you need. convert the cooling system? i have looked at one and i don't believe it'd be as complex as a 20v. apart from that there only leaves basics.. efi fuel system brakes etc etc. it would be a great thing in a lightweight rwd car seriously this engine gives me a woody. they don't cost as much as you think either. my last quote was $1750. pretty reasonable considering the technology. anyway back on topic V-techs are great but a lot of work involved. more work than some other engine conversions

now i ask why? where does the expense come in compared to say RWD converting a BT 20v? there are heaps of kit guys out there with RWD 2zzge's