adam-__-

A 5mm slip on spacer will solve your problems.

Videos! I don't recall seeing a video of this car before... It's a shame you're getting rid of the car, but I want your quads. hehe :lol:

AE71 panel van struts are the same as those found on the AE86. The AE71 sedan, wagon are different. And for those wondering about the KE70 panel vans, they're NOT the same as AE86 struts, just the AE71 panel vans. Struts are all interchangeable as long as you get the brake bits and the steering arms (word you're looking for :lol: ) with it. If installing AE86/AE71 panel van struts into your 'normal' E7's, you'll need to also change strut top hats to correct castor.

Thanks and welcome to the forums! Hahaha cheers mate. The interior could be a little better, but I'm happy with it as is. No major updates. I finally got that locked diff back in and new shims. It turned out the diff I had bought had the wrong crown wheel on it. Was told it was the 3.9 ratio wheel, but turned out to be some other random shit. Said '3.9' on it, but the teeth were much larger compared to my original diff's crown wheel. That problem was easily solved by swapping the crown wheels over. Simple fix, but took quite a while for me to find out. haha. It's good to finally be able to spin both wheels again. Also had the chance to install my thermo fan switch/sensor today as well. It's a nice little unit, it doesn't only control when the thermo fans turn on, but also tell you the water, oil temperature and battery voltage (no need for random gauges). Yet to install the oil temperature sensor though. Will most likely install that when I install my oil cooler (standard 4AGE item) which will be at the next oil change (probably before the next Winton). Not much apart from that, still waiting on my wheels... :wink: Edit: Future plans are to neaten up my engine bay wiring. I was in a rush to get the motor running so it's a little messy at the moment.

The Watanabe's for sure!

NNOOOOOO!!!! I hope she's gone to get it's wiring fixed! If not, at least the last photo of her in this thread looks good. :P I want your quads...

Hahaha, doesn't it hurt when you find out how much you've actually spent? With my conversion, it ended up at just over $3k and I had only budgeted $2k max. haha. Hopefully it doesn't go much higher hey.

How are the ball joints? If just replaced, $80. I bought mine for $50 I think, ball joints weren't new, but were still okay.

An exhaust manifold from a 4AGE powered AE86 will work in a KE70. I personally think $1.1k for an exhaust system is a little much. For reference, my whole system set me back ~$650. ~$300 for TRD copy extractors, ~$350 for a custom 2.25" press bent over diff system which included 2 mufflers.

All RWD A series engine cross members should be the same. I'm currently running an A series cross member from an AE86 in my KE70 at the moment as far as I'm aware.

Yep, exams 8:30 the next morning, which was yesterday. haha And I've never been up there before. I was hoping to have gone up on Sunday just to check it out then head out on track in June, but oh well I'll just go out first time up there. Should be good being an all practice day and on a Saturday! Be careful of what you wish for! You might even get a chance to have it in your car. hahaha. I've got a spare 4AGE head sitting here and a 7AGE build keeps crossing my mind, but like you, until I get cash (Rudd money has been spent :P ) I'll make a start on it.

Engine cross member you're asking about right? If you're wanting a 4AGE in your KE70, you will need an A series cross member unless the T18/T series one you've got at the moment has modified mounts. If you were talking about gearbox cross member, all T50 gearbox cross members should be the same. Bell housing is the main difference when it comes to fitting on another motor.

Yeah, didn't end up going. Diff thing was a bitch, still had open wheeler in it and had to study for a mid semester exam the next morning. And I heard about Pidwell winning the comp, go the ke's! hahah I would've thought your Rudd cash would've come in by now. :hmm: The seat holds me nicely, for the price I can't really complain. I bought the seat with rails which were already modified to suit a KE so it was pretty much bolt in. And that issue I had about it not being centered, well lets just say I mounted the passanger rail on the driver side. :P No idea how we got it in there, but the correct, driver side rail is in there now and it's all good. :y: Umm what else is there for me to say about the car since the last update... Oh I've lowered the front of the car a little more. Installing the camber tops raised my front a little too high, it's a little more respectable height now. haha. Guard is inline with start of tyre tread. Ermm I think that's about it. Will get pics of the height if anyone's interested, if not I'll just wait till the new wheels come and get pics of that. I'll hopefully be at the next winton practice day as well. I keep saying I'll rock up to it, but hopefully the next one. :P

With the 3 lines underneath the car, one will be feed, return and the largest will be the breather from memory. I can't remember which ones are which, probably best to get underneath the car and follow the lines to the engine bay.

You need to change the speedo gears in your gearbox to suit your modifications. Haven't had any experience with it as yet, but I really need to get around to it. More info in the thread I made a few months back. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=22275

Wow, nice work on the guards. When I was rolling/flaring my guards I got all dents! hahaha. You need to help me with mine some day. :D

Yep, there would be 3 seals altogether. 2 important ones and it sounds like you replaced the least important one. :D The part numbers for the two seals are 'TC12379VI' and 'BS217' from CBC Bearings. Set me back $6 altogether. Links to how to change seals below. Big port dizzy: http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=8286 Small port dizzy: http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=21555

Looks pretty good as it is mate. I say leave the 17s to larger cars and stay with the 15s MAX on the KE70, but each to their own.

LOL thanks for the comments guys. It's been about 3 weeks or so now. According to the tracking thing, the wheels only left Japan's shores (or is on the boat ready to leave) on the 4th of April. :dance: I'm guessing it'll take 8 weeks in total to get here, same as my first set of wheels. Should be alright though, I've got a decent set to roll on at the moment. I just went outside to take some snaps of the new seat for those who can't see the car in person. Enjoy.

Yep, if everything goes to plan, I should be there on the 19th. :dance: T18 bars should finish off the look you're going for. Quads, chrome bars.. nice! Breaking the rings wasn't really an accident. Just got a little frustrated trying to get the new centre it, I started bashing it in with a hammer and when things don't go in evenly, things break. haha

Buckets.. You can fit many types of buckets in a KE70, these or these even these! In all seriousness, I'm assuming you're talking about bucket seats? Most seats should fit into a *E7*, it's just the trouble of getting/making rails to suit both. Knowing how to weld would be good.

I find it really hard to understand what you're trying to say or ask. :dance: You only need hub rings if you're running after market wheels which don't sit on your hubs (takes strain of car's weight off studs and puts them onto hubs). Easiest way of finding out what you need is to go outside and measure it. Most after market wheel's hubs are normally 73mm. You're asking about hub rings right? haha

Camber tops have arrived and have been installed. Also bought a fixed back seat for cheap cheap last night too! Installed it this morning and it's a bit hard to get in and out now. haha. Need to modify the rails a bit though, sitting off centre at the moment. And with the camber tops installed, the front sits a little higher. Will get pics up of the seat and everything else soon. :) Edit: Hrmm I should also mention that my diff is f@$ked at the moment too. Tried to get a locked centre in ready for winton the other day and umm I broke those two rings which keep the diff centre aligned in the housing. :dance: It's currently still drivable, but it's kinda rattly, whiney, noisey. Was hoping for it to be fixed by today, but I couldn't get an axle out of a KE at a local wrecker so if someones got a pair lying around...

Ah good to hear you won the parkers Leah. Try and get new pics of the MAs and quads installed soon. :y:

Like irokin has mentioned earlier, a +10 to -4 offset wheel doesn't mean anything without a width. A wheel with those specs could fit, could not. For example a 15x7 +10 to -4 offset wheel will be fairly flush with standard guards rolled back, but a 15x12 +10 or -4.. it'll hang out heaps or won't fit at all. Google 'offset wheels explaination' and you should be able to find something to help you understand wheel offsets.